Kim

I have a hardtop hoist, and don't find it very satisfactory. Between the hook in the ceiling, the double pulley assembly, and the slack in the hoist harness, the total hardtop package extends at least 2 feet down from the ceiling at the lowest point (back edge). Even with my 12' ceiling, it feels like an obstruction and makes a 3-car garage feel crowded. It cannot hang directly above your car (in a ready to drop position) if you have a garage door opener. It is particularly bothersome when I face the fact that I will probably never put the hardtop on my car again, so easy access is not an issue. I plan to find someplace in the basement. If you're still interested in one, I will sell you mine at a bargain price. Let me know. Kim

You might wish to get your transmission checked out. On my 2000 Tip, I never feel the "jerk" you describe when shifting into 1st .... whether moving or not. When sitting still, there is no sensation at all when shifting into 1st. Also, I do not experience the "funny" shifts you describe when operating the Tip in manual. The only difference in my car is the shift point being delayed until I choose to shift. Kim

Loren ... or anyone, I have the opportunity to obtain one of the newer dashes .... with glove compartment low on the passenger side. Is it possible for you to tell from the parts list if the newer style dash will fit in my 2000 996 cab? Thanks, Kim

Yes. They're all there in .pdf files. Not clearly labeled and not in any clear order that I can devine. Its only 20 bucks, but their customer service stinks. At least 2 of the files on my disk were corrupted and unable to be opened and/or contained gibberish on some pages. When I inquired, they simply replied, "that's the way our originals are". No refund. By the way, there is a full factory set on Ebay right now in the $1500 range. Kim

Yes, when the electrical connection between the bar and the harness under the pax seat is unplugged, the central computer will register a fault. The PST2 can then be used to tell your car that you do not have the deactivation bar installed. Kim

Izzy, I am attempting to duplicate your terrific DYI on my 2000 Cab. I have run into a question and a little confusion. Your step 8 appears to direct that I cut excess antenna length in order to leave 130 mm in place. The TSB (I read it a bunch of times) appears to say in step 6 to REMOVE the last 130mm, leaving the remainder behind .... quite a different approach. Before I cut, can anyone (Loren?) shed any light on this? Does it really matter? Kim

Haven't installed yet, so can't comment on loudness . ... but I paid $1400 plus switch (about $25) at Sunset. It was the best deal I could find. Kim

I really look forward to seeing your special modification of the TSB, as I'd really like to do this one. My range on new battery is about 6 feet. By the way, the TSB has a slightly different step depending upon which of the two frequencies is used for the remote. Can someone (Loren, Tool Pants, Henry) please post which of the freqs is used for US cars? Thanks, Kim

Yesterday I was standing in the big Porsche dealership in Munich, looking at the new version of the Zoom. It is definitely fancier and more modern looking .... but appears (to external inspection) to be the same basic seat structure. I asked the parts guy (located on the floor of the main showroom .... a concept I like) about availability. No problem, he said. Well, actually, what he said was mostly German with a little English thrown in, but I got the drift as I have found I can communicate there well enough to order the occasional part. So .... the problem must be between there and here. Kim

I know it sounds basic, but did you have your car reprogrammed after the installation of the deactivation kit? (I realize the dealer should have raised this issue if not). I ask because, following my self-installation of the deactivation kit, the airbag light was on whenever the child seat male buckle was inserted ..... until I got to my independent shop and had the child seat programmed into the central computer. After proper child seat programming, the airbag light will flash for 60 seconds after the ignition is turned on ... .whenever the child seat male buckle is plugged into the deactivation female buckle. That's your signal that the pax airbag is, in fact, deactivated. Kim

The Hazet 2169 (that I learned about here) describes itself as "74.5 mm with 14 flats". That is the size of the area that fits over the bottom of the oil filter. I think that's what you are asking. The advantage of this particular tool over the Porsche one is that, in addition to having provision for the large socket to turn it, the center of the tool is tapped for a 3/8' drive wrench (or extension) .... something most guys have close by when working on their cars. Kim

They are intended to protect the surface behind the the holes in which your hard top posts are inserted (behind your back seats) when your hard top is in place. Open side faces toward the front of the car. I've seen many posts exactly like yours .... so I knew what mine were when I found them while vacuuming my used Cab. Kim

The battery is a round, lithium battery, No. 2032, about the size of a nickel, and available at most drug stores, Radio Shacks, etc. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thank you, Kim! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You're welcome. You can go the TSBs on this site and find the one that details how to change the battery. I know .... that sounds like a joke .... but it shows which way to pry out the battery without your worrying that you're going to break the little tab; and, how to re-initialize the transmitter if it does not work after the change.

The battery is a round, lithium battery, No. 2032, about the size of a nickel, and available at most drug stores, Radio Shacks, etc.

Loren, A question that I can't answer by staring at your picture. Are the 2x10 ramps full length, i.e. under both front and rear wheels? If not, do they leave the car level enough for adeqate oil drain? Thanks,

I am considering the Fabspeed exhaust, primarily for the sound as I doubt I use all the HP I already have. I have listened to the sound files on the Fabspeed website, but, of course, that can not really deliver a true rendition. I am looking for someone in the Atlanta area who has installed a Fabspeed exhaust on a 996. Please PM me if you are willing to let me listen Thanks, Kim

Andy, It was Kirby's example that inspired my similar installation. I have the full leather dash, etc in my Cab, and had no difficulty with the use of the credit card to achieve the wire run. Give me a PM if you wish to drive out to Marietta to see for yourself. Kim

Andy, Following a tip I found somewhere hidden in the depths of this forum, I found it very easy to run my V-1 power wire across the top edge of the windshield (behind the trim), down the A-pillar, under the dash, and connect to the readily available switched power that is in the cell phone plug (unused in my car). No tools for the job other than a credit card to ease the wire out of sight behind the trim. Then, simply pop off the trim panel by the pax left knee to access the power. I'm in Marietta. Be happy to show you my installation. Kim

In another thread, I described the tribulations involved in removing the rear seat and pax side rear inner sidewall of my 2000 Cab .... all in an attempt to find the source of my water soaked carpets behing the pax seat and under the right back seat. Today, I finally finished, but have no idea how long it will take that high density foam padding to dry, after I vacuumed and towel blotted it all afternoon. Here is the lesson learned for you Cab owners: a small plastic drain tray runs along the side wall behind the inner upholstery panel beside each back seat. A right angle fitting leads from the low point, sideways through the inner body panel and into the void ahead of the rear tire. If you remove the rear wheel, then the forward side wheel well liner, all you see is the metal body panel right behind it. Almost at the bottom of the body panel is the outlet for the drain tube. The outlet itself is a simple plastic check valve with a rubber flapper valve about the size of a nickel. Therein lies the problem. The rubber was stiff with age, and gummed up about 90% with the same kind of crud you clean out of your gutters ... fine, wet, black gunk. When my car was out in the pouring rain at the airport for 2 days, the 10% drain capacity left was clearly not enough to handle the water flow, and a gallon or so ended up in my back seat floor. I pulled the flapper off, blew out the drain with air, then soaked the flapper in Lexol conditioner to soften it before reinstalling. Considered leaving the rubber flapper off, but was afraid that road debris might come in the other way to block it. Going to pull the driver's side wheel and liner tomorrow. My car has been kept in a garage ... no reason to suspect more than average debris in the drain. You Cab owners might wish to add this to your "check every now and then" list. Kim

Thanks, Loren. A set is on its way to me. For any other Cab drivers here, the fitting that the rear seat back clips to is known as the seat "peg", and screws into a brass pressed insert in the aluminum plate just behind the side panel at that point. If the fitting is not totally tight, it may rotate when you attempt to remove the peg with a 6 mm allen wrench. The only solution I found was to loosen all other fasteners for that side panel, flex it inward, and get behind with a pair of vise grips on the back side of the fitting. Voila, its out, the panel is off, and I could examine the drain situation .... the original reason I started this whole nightmare. Found something that is probably typical. Just under the rear window, pax side, a black plastic drain tray is the low point for collecting water that enters around the Cab top. It drains into a downspout (about an inch in diameter) to which the overboard drain tube is attached. That downspout was clogged with debris (leaves, etc), and the water apparently flowed over the side of the tray (less than 2" tall), down into the area under the rear seat cushion, and on to the main floor behind the pax seat. Moral .... don't let debris accumulate in the drain tray. Kim

OK, got that one on the way. How about the star bit (like Torx, but with twice as many points) that is used to remove the bracket upon which the rear seat back swivels? Thanks in advance. Kim

Thanks, Loren. I got a look at the back side by raising/lowering the top to the best position. It appears to be a round, brass bushing with no flats or anything similar on the inside of the wall. The seat peg comes in from the other side and stops just short of filling up the depth of the bushing. As I turn the seat peg, the round bushing turns also ... with very little chance of getting the strong grip a pair of pliers would take to hold it. Can barely get my hand in there. Really frustrating. Also, while I have your attention .... any suggestions on where to find sockets that amount to a female Torx, so that I can remove the seat rail bolts. A 3/8 socket worked on 3, but, as one might expect, 4th is fighting me big time. Just a another relaxing Sunday afternoon. Kim

Loren, or anyone else whose had a lot of wrenches on their car: 2000 Cab. I have water in the rear pax side floor carpet, and under the pax side emergency seat. AFter looking at the water drain plan in the service man., I am assuming (hoping) a drain hose has come loose behind the side panel, and is dumping rain water in there. Manual, 70-45, says in removing that side panel, the first step is to remove the rear seat holding peg with an Allen wrench. Very tight, then the shallow recess just reamed out. I tried the driver's side (gently) to make sure I understood correctly. It came loose right away, and back out as expected. Back to the pax side. Since the peg was damaged already and would have to be replaced, I grabbed the vise grips intending to back it out. Several complete turns later, it is no looser. With the top standing up, I can reach into the mechanism there with my other hand and feel something turning (looks brass colored maybe?) on the inside, but it is no closer to coming out. Any thoughts on my next step? I believe I must get behind this side panel to diagnose the water source. Any hints on removing the carpet under the rear seat? Floor carpet looks pretty straightforward (after I remove the front seat rails). Thanks, Kim

TP ... I used wire connectors to splice the connections just short of each plug. As I said, the video was invaluable. However, when I do the OBC hack, I'm moving a TV and DVD player to the garage. Got real tired of pausing, running outside, then back in again for the next step. I had the Pelican Parts text and pics, but there is no substitute for live action. Had to laugh during the video when I heard your neighbor (I assume) crank up his lawnmower. Maybe if you offered him a percentage, he would maintain silence during filming. Doug ... thanks for the Fabspeed info. It does seem to sound a little more sporty than my stock mufflers.

I'm learning more and generating more questions about my 2000 Cab (its a far cry from my 1981 928). I put in the litronics today, using the 9X6 video as guidance. Great video. While the lights were out, I took the opportunity to route the trunk release cable to the tow point as suggested on this forum. Question 1: that made me wonder about the rear lid release cable, under the left taillight. Since you can't (I think) get the taillight out without the lid already open, what is the purpose of this emergency release? Anyone? Question 2: I listened to the sound file on the Fabspeed website. Can anyone share their thoughts on the differences/similarities between the Fabspeed mufflers and the PSE? Thanks in advance. Kim