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Follow-up ... I found a post which showed that on a car with an electric wing, one can reach the latch from under the raised wing. Since my car has a fixed wing, I could not do that. Instead, I reached through the louvers of the deck lid (pic1), removed the rubber shroud that goes to the intake, reached in under the black plastic cover of the engine (used a few rags to hold the plastic pulled apart), and was able to see and push the latch with a long screw driver, right where the cable was supposed to attach. Pic 2 shows the disconnected cable and, pic 3 and pic 4 show how it connects. The issue is that the plastic clip holding the cable is not to strong and pops out easy. Part of the issue is that the cable attaches to the air intake (pic 8), and every time you pull out the intake pipe, like when you change oil, you put strain on the cable and it can pop out. My solution was to fabricate a small bracket (pic 5), and bolt it on top of the plastic clip using one of the bolts holding the latch mechanism plus an additional 6mm bolt which I added to an existing hole on the latch (pic 6 and 7). Note in pic 9, the location of the emergency lid release. This cable can be reached by raising the electric wing, but is unreachable on cars with a fixed wing. Plus, it is attached to the actuator, so if the cable pops out from the latch, it is of no use. I tied up some 60lb fishing leader to that cable and routed it above my tail light so I can use it if the electric release fails. The main issue I see with the design here, is that the emergency release cable is not independently attached to the latch mechanism. I will consider adding a whole new emergency release cable in the future. Ivo
Yes, but I can see from the bottom that that the cable is completely detached from the latch, so pressing the lid will not help. I need to figure out a way to get to the latch with causing the least damage. Looks impossible from the bottom, so I think I will try to go through the slats right after the air intake. If anyone had done this, I would appreciate some pointers.
I have the same issue with a 2013 Carrera S with Aero kit. The main cable came loose from the latch. The actuator is working but since the cable is loose it can't release the latch. Because I have a fixed wing, I can't reach the emergency cable. Do you guys have any other ideas how I can get to the latch to release it?
Thanks. I will try to isolate the issue using a resistor, but I know that replacing the contact unit yet again will fix the issue … temporarily. It just looks like there is something causing the contact units to fail, and I can’t put my finger on it. When I take the “failed” units, I test them for connectivity on all four wires as I spin the unit from lock to lock and I don’t get any disconnects. However, when I put them in the car I get the error as soon as I turn the steering wheel.
Hi All, I have a 99 C4 which I purchased back in 2003. In 2005 the airbag light came on with error 21 – (ignition circuit driver). I changed the clock spring – 996 652 211 00 with the same part number and the problem was fixed. Last year, in November 2012, I got the same issue and purchased a clock spring contact unit – 996 652 211 01 (this number superseded the original part number above) and the issue was fixed again … for about a month! I figured it must have been a defective part and ordered a new one. The new part was installed in January and now, in March, I just got the same error 21 again. What am I doing wrong? There is only one way to connect and install the contact unit and I just can’t figure out what is going on. If replacing the contact unit wasn’t fixing the issue for a while, I would be looking for the problem elsewhere, but it is, so it must be it. Has anyone seen this before? Thank you, Ivo
I need to find someone who can reprogram my DME from OBD2 to RoW in Miami. Looked at the registration tread but did not see a local post. Could anyone help or recommend a shop that can do this for me?
I know that a lot of you use the racing Carbotech pads, and was wondering if anyone is using their street compound called Bobcat 1521? I found several good reviews of this pad, but none on a Porsche forum. Has anyone used it?
ivass replied to Loren's topic in DIY Articles - Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and RepairsI can't open the link to the DIY. Does anybody know if it has been moved, or if it is posted to a different location?
ivass replied to liberatod's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)how are the $800 headers different than those? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-PORSCHE...sspagenameZWDVW I
ivass replied to wxseed's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I used Loctite 574. Much better than any RTV silicone I ever used.
ivass replied to ivanuf's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)based on the pic you only need the wire harnes and the locking hook (other than fan and hinges)
I am considering cat bypass pipes and wanted to know if anyone has looked at the secondary air pump when installing those. Based on the below info posted by Loren in the 986 forum, looks like the air pump runs from about 1 to 3 minutes after a normal start up. If I am not mistaken the duration is determined by the ECU based on data from the secondary O2 sensors (is this correct?). If this is the case, does that mean that the pump will run for the full 179 seconds with by-pass pipes? Also, does anyone know if the operation of the pump is affected by switching from OBD2 to ROW DME? Am I overlooking anything? I would appreciate any input. Ivo The below was posted by Loren in the 986 forum! Per Porsche's 199 Tech Book... "Auxiliary Air Pump To reduce pollutants contained in the exhaust gas during the warm-up phase and to achieve the emission limits of the roll test in the USA, USA vehicles have a secondary air system. For this reason, an electric air pump has been mounted on the left-hand side of the engine compartment (Carrera). This pump is activated by the DME control unit and blows the additional air through air ducts to the discharge valve. A pneumatic switching valve which is closed when the secondary air system is inactive thus preventing the flow of additional air is installed between the air pump and the discharge valve. Functioning If the engine is started in a temperature range between minus 10.5° C and plus 45° C, the secondary air system is activated for a period of time dependent on the start temperature (min. 50 seconds, max. 179 seconds). The secondary air system is only activated if the following engine-related operating conditions apply: - Engine load (TL) between 0.7 ms/rev, and 4.7 ms/rev. - Air mass (ML) not greater than 300 kg/h - Engine speed between 680 rpm and 2,800 rpm - Altitude adaptation factor greater than 0.76 corresponding to less than 2,400 meters above sea level."
ivass replied to hi8ha's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I am also in Miami and have been trying to figure out how to eliminate the cats on my 99 C4. It looks like the DME needs to be reprogrammed so we don't get a cell. Could you please PM if/when you do it, and let me know who did it for you. Thanks, Ivo