Kim

If you have water in the boot and front footwells, then it is the FORWARD tubes that must be clogged.

From seeing this question responded to a number of times, it is my impression that the handles only come as a set from Porsche, and are quite pricey. I found a set .... in brand new condition and including the housing .... on Ebay for $45. There are also severay DIYs around that describe removing and painting these handles. A very short sighted design on Porsche's part. Oh well, you take the bad with the GREAT.

As I understand it, GAHH is the OEM for the original equipment top on the Porsche. When I had to replace mine, both the dealer and the upholstery shop to which they sent me told me that the only difference (other than $1000+) was that the GAHH top was stitched around the back window, and the OEM top was not. I went for the savings, since it was a delaminated back window that sent me there in the first place. I cannot tell any differences other than the stitching.

These cars already have keyless entry .... at least every 996 I ever saw has it. Have you checked your owners' manual? The remote window & convertible top operation can be added with a very simple, plug and play device by Wilhelmy. In addition you get the ability to raise / lower top while moving. With the availability of these great products, I can't imagine doing something so drastic as disabling / bypassing the OEM entry / alarm system.

When you speak with Sunset, be clear that you do NOT need a new key shaft (the only reason the replacement should cost your quoted $200 would be for a shaft and key head). I paid approximately $75 on ebay for a key head to put on my old shaft. If you go this way, be sure you buy only a head that includes the bar code tag. In Atlanta, I paid less than $50 to have 2 keys mated to the car (its the car that is programmed, not the keys). Took about 10 minutes.

You should do a search. You will turn up more reading on this subject than you have time for. I love my Goodyear Eagle F1, GSD3s. When I bought them, they were the current (Fall, 04) first choice of the Car & Driver high performance tire test. Wet & dry grip is great. Road noise low to moderate (until the wear bars are reached). Tread wear has been better than I read from most on the forum, but then I drive a Tip, no track, and most of the driving is of the "daily driver" variety. I do a little high speed interstate running, and the tires feel solid as a rock. Rears lasted just under 30k, fronts still good at 40k+.

Bill, I searched on autotrader.com. You can put in desired features, colors, geographic radius, etc. I wanted a black Cab with gray interior & Tip. There were exactly 2 in the database at the time. Since you can fly for free (other post id'd you as a 777 button pusher), you can do it as I did. 1. contact the seller (in my case, premium used car dealer in DFW suburbs 2. ascertain the car is still available, get details left out of ad; Carfax it 3. arrange a visit/test drive .... fly in and let them pick you up, or use a local friend 4. like the car? .... put down refundable deposit, arrange for PPI at local dealer. (if no dealer handy, check with PCA region for recommendations 5. PPI OK? fly back in with check; they bring car to airport .... you drive it home. I got a great deal. Car has done nothing to disappoint in 3 years / 40K miles.

Thanks, Thorsten. Just to be clear, this was not related to all those years in the cockpit. It was, ironically, the result of choosing running as my exercise to stay healthy over a 30 year period .... which did not combine well with arthritic hips over the long run. On the other hand, running provided me with some beautiful memories of your country, especially around Munich & Stuttgart.

Well, after 4 years and 40k miles with my 2000 Cab, I've finally found something to complain about. I had an procedure known as "hip resurfacing" performed this week. The pre-op info included the fact that most can drive within 2 - 3 weeks. It also, however, included a great deal of warning regarding the possibility of a dislocation during the several month time to total recovery. High on the "don't" list was: "drive a car with low seating". Of course, I assumed that would not apply to me. After all, I was active .... a runner .... worked out with weights daily. My recovery would not be bound by the restrictions "normal" hip suffers must follow. At the pre-op meeting, I addressed the issue with the doc's assistant. I deigned that I would wait as much as 3 weeks .... to show my patience. She asked what kind of car. My wife, already worried, interjected, "a Porsche". "A Cayenne"? "No, a little one" (the wife again). "Well, it could be as long as 3 months before you can safely drive that car. (actually, I could drive it without a problem. Its the getting in and out that does the damage.) I will be flying airplanes long before I will be able to drive my Cab. There are 3 absolutely prohibited movements / positions during the recovery. 1. bending more than 90 degrees, upper body to thigh. 2. raising the thigh within 90 degrees of the upper body. 3. crossing the affected (right, in my case) leg over the other and/or rotating the toe of that foot inward. I tried, the night before surgery, but could find absolutely no way to get into, or exit my car without violating at least one, if not all of these restrictions. So, I'm stuck .... and mourning. I ride shotgun in my wife's Landcruiser, where I can slide out like a kid at a water park. I will have to ask my son-in-law to drive my car occasionally. My wife is afraid to accept the responsibility. My daughter forfeited all chance with an incident in my 928 over 20 years ago .... which will remain untold at this time.

The lemon law in Georgia concerns itself more directly with "failure to address / correct problem" than with the problem occuring in the first place. A claimant must document that he has had his under warranty car serviced a certain number of times .... within a prescribed time frame .... for the same complaint .... without the problem being satisfactorily repaired. Some posters I have seen describe their tribulations of multiple seal replacements for the dreaded RMS leak would qualify. Someone who was given a factory new engine in response to a blown engine .... would not. That would be considered as satisfactorily addressing the problem.

In my 2000 Cab, I almost always leave the windscreen in place, and in the "up" position .... when I raise and lower my top. There is no interference between the two. Although it is possible to reach back from the driving position and raise or lower the windscreen with the right hand, I simply don't bother, as I have the top down so often. The only downside is that this hinders access to the package shelf behind the seats (but does not block it entirely). I only take the windscreen out when I need to put one of the kids in a back seat.

I can't echo this loudly enough. Once you deal with one of the Sunset guys (I deal with Jeff), then its like you have a friend who works in Porsche wholesale parts. Quick quotes, great prices, personal service, very knowledgeable. What more could you hope for?

While some people buy into the theory that ignorance is bliss, I haven't run into many Porsche owners who do. Those who frequent RennTech tend more to the "knowledge is power" line of reasoning in the expectation that this "power" will, at best, make their Porsche experience more pleasurable, and, at least, minimize their cost and inconvenience when it is not.

Can't speak for anyone else, of course, but I have been very happy with my CDR220. I know its no $1000 after market blaster, but, then, I'm no audiophile. 30 years of jet engines have saved me a lot of money on high-end stereo gear. I'm also happy with the support Becker America has given me. They may have raised the price, but I paid only about $12 for the Aux input cable .... and they threw in instructions on programming the radio for it, along with a free set of removal tools. Twice I have had cause to call them directly and both times got quick & helpful advice / information. I hardwired a third party adaptor to power the ipod and ran the connector wire back through the center console. The same wire/plug takes the output signal to the the Aux input cable. Nice and neat. (thank you Orient Express for a great DIY).

A late update for anyone completing this DIY on a 2000 Cab: It went just as described by Loren with the following exceptions on my car: 1. Disassembly Step 1: "Undo hexagon socket head bolts". Mine required a 4mm allen wrench. 2. Disassembly Step 3: "Release the Bowden cables". My cable retaining bolt required a 3mm allen wrench. Other than that, all went well. Thanks for a great site.

It certainly was true for my MY00 Cab. I drove it for several months while the unglued area became wider, and I looked into a solution. The loose area at the outside bottom of the window resembled a pocket that collected leaves and rainwater .... but none of it came into the interior of the car.

As I indicated in my first reply above, this is correct. No, for all the child seats, the bar goes on the front of the passenger side seat rails. As I wrote in my first reply above, I have done the same thing .... with the exception of removing the female buckle / wire from the bar itself. It has worked for 4 years. Once you have your car programmed for the child seat, there is no reason it should not work.

As far as I can determine, the only purpose of the bar is to anchor the buckle as a means of preventing the wiring connection from being jerked loose or damaged. The bar has no purpose as far as the actual circuit / function of the unit is concerned. I, too, had the air bag light on when I finished the installation. 5 minutes with a PST2, and that will be fixed. After programming, the air bag light will flash for 60 seconds following start up with the male buckle installed. That is your warning that the passenger air bag is disabled.

1. The bar ends go under the seat rails. 2. longer bolts are supplied with the kit as it comes from the dealer. 4. TSB is located right here on RennTech, for contributing members. You are correct that anyone with a PST can program the car to recognize the installation. 5. I use the buckle to deactivate the airbag for medium sized children using the Porsche seat, and for larger children not in special seats, but not yet large enough for airbags.

Local dealer told me that, for my wheels at least (18" Turbo look), the wheels were tough as nails and that he could not imagine a reasonably lower air pressure making them more susceptible to road damage. My car has 69K miles, and I just had the wheels refinished. Wheel company said they were arrow straight. I run 32 front, 34 rear.

If the problem is in your car's computer (not as likely), then a new key will not help. If, in fact, your key head has failed electronically, then you don't need an entire new key. You take the metal shaft out of the bad key head and put it into a new key head on it. I bought mine on ebay for approximately $75. (be sure any new key head comes with the bar code tag, or it cannot be mated to your car). Then, a visit to the dealer (MUST be a dealer) cost me $47.50 for having two key heads mated to my car. In and out in less than 15 minutes. If you need a new metal shaft for any reason, I paid about $85 to Sunset, after faxing them a copy of my title to prove ownership.

When I first picked up my used car, the dealer had pumped the tires to the Owners' Manual settings subsequent to my test drive. I found it a very harsh and quite a difference from my first drive in the car. I lowered the pressures to 32F & 34R, and have been very happy with the ride and performance (street only). I just replaced the first new rear tires I put on the car, and wear was even across the tread.

2000 Cab: 69,000 miles. No mechanical problems other than having to adjust hood latch one time. Never been in the shop other than for routine maintenance. I did have the semi-common glue failure in rear window at about 40K.

All it took for me was a phone call to my dealer to give him the serial number. A few clicks on the computer and he read back my code. No charge, no hassle.

If you listen by the fuel door and hear the latch actuating, then it is a mechanical problem .... not an electrical / auto door lock one. I have found it common for the linkage driving the plunger (which locks the fuel filler door) become loose and ineffective. The most common effect I have seen is for it to fail to lock .... but there is no reason it could not fail to unlock also.