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a66cobra1

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Everything posted by a66cobra1

  1. Just an update: 1. Ordered a replacement regulator for $137 from: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWNX%3AIT 2. Part works PERFECTLY!!!! and I do not miss that crunching sound from the old regulator and I was able to isolate a rattle that I had in the door. WIN WIN today!
  2. First started with the above problem, it has gotten worse and NOW: Passenger window has decided to make a really cool crunching sound when going up and down. Obviously it is the window regulator cable. Recommendations?????? What part, where to buy, etc? I saw a previous thread about how to replace it, step-by-step. Thanks in advance. D
  3. IT's FIXED!!!!!! Today I set out to dig deep in to the headlamp assembly itself and discovered that at pin 12 on the main socket, there was supposed to be a ground that provided a ground to the low beam, high beam and the flapper. Got in there with the ohm meter and discovered that it had some resistance, more than normal, so I pinned out the other two ground points (Pin 6 and Pin 2) and they read perfectly. Sooooooooo, I went to fixing it, soldered all new connections and made the repair. WORKS PERFECTLY NOW!!!! Thanks to those that helped me as well as those that tolerated my updates. If anyone needs help fixing a headlamp, I am now more than capable.
  4. My passenger side window does not "dip" like it supposed to when you touch the door handle. Can someone please remind me of the procedure to "remind" the window memory what it is supposed to do? If that doesn't resolve it, what is the problem?
  5. Pic of my test setup that allows me to work on the headlamp assembly while it is on the bench and still under power from the car. Notice in the pic, it was one of the times that I had it working and thought I had it fixed only to discover that it is somewhere in the connector between pins 11/12 and the ballast. Going to rip in to the connector in the 2nd pic above to see if it is there first. I'm getting close to finding it. :D
  6. Nope, it's not the bulb, ballast, switch, a relay, high beam/low beam switch on the column... it is IN the headlamp assembly. Today, after Thanksgiving meal, I wandered out to the garage for some more troubleshooting. I put the headlamp on my work bench and extended it again with the 10 foot leads that I made. This time, instead of connecting the wires from the car to pins 11 & 12 (PICTURE #1) to the normal male connector, I bypassed the connector and went directly to the ballast input (PICTURE #2), started the car, turned on the switch and the low beam comes on and works PERFECTLY 10 times in a row. So, the issue is somewhere between pin 11/12 and where it enters the input side of the ballast. Is there ANYONE that services headlamp assemblies? This thing internally is pretty complex and getting to the backside of the connector that pins 11/12 are on is tough because of where it physically is.
  7. Forgot to post up about this as an update. Replaced the switch and it still is doing the same thing as before. Swapped the ballast from the other side and the issue remains in the original location. Swapped in a known good headlamp assembly and it worked perfectly. So, the problem is somewhere inside my headlamp assembly, most likely a bad ground or lose wire somewhere. I have been chasing the real issue for nearly a month and am so tired of it.
  8. There is one control unit for each headlight. Factory option is M601. Loren, What control unit is this? Where are they located at? It is separate from the ballast I am assuming, but I have been all through my headlamp assy and didn't see anything else that looks like a control unit. I'm asking because me driver headlamp and highbeam (Litronic on 01 996TT) is working intermittently with the "flicker" on the low beam. Today I had the low beam working and hit the high beam to see what it would do and the low went out and the high never lit. Thanks, Dan.
  9. When it comes to cleaning the contacts, what process do you guys use? Thus far I have replaced: 1. Headlight. 2. Headlight switch. next up is the ballast if the cleaning doesn't work. 01 996TT
  10. OK, must say out of all the years of "fixes" this one goes in the books as the most BIZARRE. Rprieto recommended that I simply smash the headlight on/off switch to the on position and I must admit... it worked. Sorry, but what the Hell? To fix a malfunction by smashing/hitting/striking/etc is very mush Detroit technology and to be honest, was very shocked that this worked. Thank you Rprieto. You just saved me from buying a new ballast and I owe you a round of drinks indeed.
  11. It only happens on the drivers side, it acts as if it is trying to start and then nothing. No, it never comes on, not just to tease me to know that it is some kind of connection. BULB IS NEW as well. Kind of thought it was maybe the ballast because it acts like a fluorescent bulb when the starter goes bad. I'm military and am used to having a drawer of starters around to keep the lights on.
  12. Oh, sorry about that. It is a 2001 996TT. Thanks for any help.
  13. I just waited a week for a new headlamp from Pelican and once installed... you guessed it, FLICKER!!! 1. Is it certain that it needs a ballast? If so, does anyone know where I can get a used one (THAT WORKS) for a decent price? 2. Can the Litronic system be upgraded/changed to something without the ballast systems? I would think that with modern LED and Xenon technology someone would understand that all it needs is a 12 volt supply. As always THANKS for any responses.
  14. My 996TT oil pressure reads right at the 4.0 mark at normal operating RPM's. Is that normal?
  15. On a recent road trip, I had the sad act of hitting a raccoon on the highway. The raccoon certainly died and as if that wasn't bad enough, I damaged my Cayenne Turbo as well. The passenger side front inner fender and low (small) spoiler that attaches to it, were damaged due to its construction being made of plastic. I need a good source for parts to repair this myself. Basic list: New Inner Fender. New low spoiler (it is about 8 inches long) that attaches to the bottom of the front side of inner fender. New Turbo inlet (attaches to inner fender) for air intake. Set of screws for the parts. Thanks, Dan.
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