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eddy123

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  • Present cars
    Porsche Boxster 2005, Audi A6 2000, Toyota Landcruiser 120

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  1. A bit late reply. The Boxster did 34K (kilometers) and is from 2005. My wife drives the car mostly and don't push it at all. During summer (Dubai is hot) we don't drive it. Ed
  2. Well another item noticed by the stealership. They saw some coolant crystals under the engine and concluded that the coolant pump needs replacement. Why maybe the sealing is broken? They said that it was better to do so. Does this make sense? Ed
  3. After bringing my Boxster 2005 for service 30K (kilometers) they noticed some oil under the engine. They advised me to change the sealing however this is an expensive repair. I cannot find any oil in my parking nor seen the level drop. So is it really needed to have this job done?? Please some advise. Ed
  4. What I have done..... Bought an 4 channel Kenwood Amplifier, changed the 6inch door speakers with a 120RMS version from Audio Swiss and added the rear speaker set myself from Euro MotorSpeed. I used some Stinger line convertors and RCA cables. Sound is really good now, even with the top down. I was assisted by Quartermile.net who connected this all as I didn't want to spend to much time on sorting out how to run the wires through the fire wall. I normally do these things myself but maybe I became lazy this time. Eddy
  5. I had the rear speakers installed, change the door speakers (Swiss Audio) and added a 4 Channel Kenwood Amplifier. The sound is now really good compared to the stock sound system. I'm using the standard CDR24 with two Stinger line convertors. I'm agree that listening to the engine is as beautifull but because my wife like to drive around bitchy, I made the change. Eddy
  6. It shouldn't be a problem to connect the output speaker leads of the CDR-24 to the input of an amplifier. I don't need to use the optic fiber. I could convert the high power input to a low signal which I can then offer to the cinch connections of the amplifier. Eddy
  7. BOXSTER 2005 Just have the basic sound package. Have installed my rear speakers (EuroSpeedMotor) and replaced the front speakers as they were damaged. Will provide later more information about my swap, how I have done this. I would like to know where would be the best location to install the amplifier? I have looked around and most 4 channel amplifiers are quite big. Another question I have, what is the output power of the CDR-24? Can I connect this directly to the amplifier? I cannot use the cinch input? How did you guys do this? Eddy123
  8. Another feedback - from the UAE. Shipping these little speakers was not cheap (+100 Bucks) but EuroMotorSpeed was so nice to share the pain a bit, thanks! I’m having the standard CDR-24 with front speakers. It took me about five hours to install the rear speakers, with some coffee breaks. My findings and comments: The provided installation guide is good but I believe too detailed and sometimes it confused me, I will come back to this later. It would have been nice if this installation guide was somewhere available on the internet with bigger pictures and clearer. The pictures in the guide were printed to dark and some too small. Nevertheless they did help me a lot. Something about these speakers. Don’t expect miracles, it does improve the sound experience but for me it is still under performing so I’m thinking to upgrade with an amplifier or/and maybe a sub. I was a bit surprised that the rear speakers were already manufactured in 1998. This mean they are more than 10 years old. I hope they were stored all these years in a good environment as plastics and rubbers will breakdown over time. Removing the Storage Compartment. As previous message and guide mention “ to use a towel over the trunk and disconnect the upper snap-in ball end of the tension cable on each corner of the top” This is not really necessary as you can easily remove the compartment from inside with the right twist. Turn the hollow side of the compartment over the roll bars. It was so easy and simple that it took me just one minute to do this. Removing the storage box “cubby hole” enclosures. At first this was a bit difficult and it took me at least a half hour to remove the first. The second enclosure I did in less than ten minutes. That was because the cutting method didn’t work for me. The easy way to do this is first cut the glue somewhere half way. Push it up and when you have enough grip, just peel it off. It is better when the glue is still hard, don’t heat it! Installing the speaker grills. The grill probable will not fit but don’t waste your time to exactly try to fit them. I would not take the effort to trim them, it will not make it nicer, especially when you make a mistake. What I did, I used the hand clamps and positioned the grill on one end. Used my glue gun and glued it forever tied. When it was dry I went around the other edges until it was nicely fixed. Ok the grills don’t fit 100% but you won’t see anything from the outside unless you know it. Beside this, the grills are behind your chairs so where to look for them? Putting the speakers and wires in place. This was an easy job to do and the speaker wire is definitely not too short to run from one to the other compartment as the guide stated that “you will need as much wire as possible when it comes to positioning the other (right side) speaker”. Instead of the Dremel –like tool ,“ to rout out two small spots so the wire can run freely from the left speaker compartment through the right compartment”, I used a solder iron to create a nice clean path. I sealed several points of the wire using the glue gun. Compartment connector and wiring harness at the roll bar. The hardest part of this installation, well for me then. I removed the carpeted seatbelt cover but I couldn’t get it back due to one fastening point, the little white one, which finally broke. If you can run the speaker wires without removing this trim, leave it where it is. To install the white connector clip in the small middle rectangle don’t use a pair of pliers but just connect it to the connector first, position it and then give it a twist, by hand, to lock it. I didn’t use any of the zip-ties, didn’t see the need of it. Removing the protective foam under the glove box. Well we don’t have pennies here but a small headed screwdriver will just do fine. Removing the (Radio) side panels. I don’t think there is a need to use these hook tools to remove them, it was quite easy actually the way I did it. Indeed the top one clip doesn’t give way that easily. The way to do this, just with your hands, so you don’t damage anything. To remove the panel at the passenger side, sit at the driver seat; use your two fingers to clamp the top and one hand on the bottom. Push it a bit up and pull it forwards. Reverse this for the other panel. Removing the Radio. This was tricky! Why? Because the guide didn’t explain how you should rotate the 2 plastic rotating locks. You must turn these about 60 degrees. If you look to these locks you will find close to it a small lid, which have to come up. You will feel, when turning that there is some resistance. Shifter. In the guide the writer move the shifter back to give the radio some extra room. Now this might work for a manual shifted 987 but not when yours is fitted with an automatic gear box. This as the manual advises strongly to remove the battery due to airbag sensors. Nevertheless I used a big pillow on top of the shifter and slide out the radio. Speaker Harness. The most confusing part of this guide and this is where I made a big mistake. Was it me or was the explanation wrong or incomplete? It doesn’t tell me clearly where the plus and minus of the speakers cables are connected. In figure 26 I can clearly see where the yellow speaker cable is connected. So I followed that picture. When testing the sound, I could clearly hear that the right and left front and rear speakers were out of phase. Set your balance all the way to your right or left speakers listen in between. Move your head slowly left and right and you can hear the out of phase effect. Mostly the lower bass tones will not be heard good. So this Figure 26 is WRONG! So what you see at figure 27 is the front view of the connector, so not the side where the cables are coming in. I had to cut the wires to correct them as I couldn’t remove them anymore. Not a big problem to correct but maybe there are people who mistaken this as well, at least, what I can see on the Figure 26, there is one. Good Luck! Eddy
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