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jrose

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About jrose

  • Birthday 05/01/1959

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0
  • Yahoo
    nineelevener@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Cars, cars and more cars!

Profile Fields

  • From
    Charlotte, NC
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1989 Porsche Carrera Targa, 1989 Porsche 944S2, 1979 Porsche 911SC
  • Future cars
    I almost never plan. Cars are a passion for me so I just buy what strikes me right.
  • Former cars
    1971 914-6, 1969 911E Targa, 1968 AC Cobra 427, 1974 Ferrari Dino, 1977 911S Targa, 1990 Corvette ZR-1, 1986 911 Cabriolet, 1991 Carrera-2, 1995 BMW M-3, 2002 Boxster "S"

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  1. I'm installing a CDR-220 from a 2002 Boxster in my '89 911. I've even purchased a "modified controller" from Becker so I can see the display. I also intended to install a Haes amplifier from a Boxster, but the one I purchased on eBay did not come with the two connector plugs--one big, one small. I've called Becker, but they could not help. I have the plug that will connect the low level output of the radio to the amplifier, but that's all I could get from Becker. An audio shop I contacted says the two plugs--or perhaps a whole harness--is available from Porsche. I checked my PET program but could find no information (illustration, part numbers, etc.). Can anyone help?
  2. I have mine in the lower right hand corner of the windshield in my '89 911 Targa.
  3. Just another thought that has occurred to me. I've also seen ignition coils fail when warm but work OK upon initial start-up. Do you have spark immediately after the engine stops running when warm? If not, you might want to try substituting a coil known to be good. Also, back to my first thought on this problem--the head temperature sensor or sensor II as Porsche calls it--when the engine is thoroughly warm (when yours seems to die), you can disconnect the sensor plug in the engine compartment and check the sensor's resistance to ground with an ohm meter. With a fully warmed engine, the reading should be about 90 ohms. A working temperature sensor's resistance will go from high (making the mixture rich) to low (leaning the mixture out) as the engine reaches normal operating temperature. If yours remains high when warm, you have a faulty sensor. Hope his helps.
  4. If you note that the engine is running rich (black smoke, etc from exhaust) when the bucking begins, you might want to check your head temperature sensor. Just an idea, of course, but those things do fail.
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