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Clutch-n-Throttle

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Posts posted by Clutch-n-Throttle

  1. I am about to embark in R&R the front upper control arms on my 06 CS.

     

    Ive done the lower control arms and I was able to find the torque values for all hardware

     

    Does anyone know the torque values for the upper control arms bolts and screws?  Or have the service manual for the suspension repair?

     

    Like my Daddy(God rest his soul) used to say, "Son.  Torque it!  Don't dork it!"

     

    Thank you

     

    Jose

  2. I got under the truck yesterday.  I checked those diff bushings.  They looked like they had some small cracks in the rubber.  I tried moving the diff by hand and it felt fairly tight.

     

    I checked the transmission mount that is attached to the cross member.  I can easily move the tranny around with my hand.  Going to replace that soon.

     

    I hear you on the 10 year old truck.  Im at the point where I have to decide if Im going to spend the money maintaining it or get myself a newer Cayenne.  I love this SUV.

  3. 1 hour ago, lewisweller said:

    First thing to visually check from underneath is the three mounts for the transmission, if they are cracked or split you get clunk when getting on throttle. 

    Next is to check the engine mounts. Normally engine mounts will produce a vibration coming to a stop as the idle speed range is reached and driveline almost stops turning. 

     

    So for me transmission mounts, mine were all spilt and yes I had a slight clunk if I was how shall we say "gettin on it" engine and driveline was dropped out for head gasket so was a no brainer.

     

    Don't rule out out worn diff gears and driveshaft and even suspension bushes but this is less likely. 

     

    Thanks for the quick reply. 

     

    I was also thinking about changing out the transmission mount. I already changed out the engine mounts and strut arm about 2 years ago. 

     

    But 3 transmission mounts?  I have been under the truck and I only see the main mount on the crossmember.  Where are the other two?  Most European parts suppliers only offer the main transmission mount that needs to be pressed out of the crossmember. 

     

    Thanks again

    Jose

  4. I need some help with my 06 CS(145k miles).

     

    I am having a clunk in my driveline and Im trying to isolate the issue.  The clunk happens under a specific condition when I am slowing down from over 40 MPH.  For example, I begin to slow down for a red light ahead.  I let off the gas and brake slightly.  I slow down to say 15-25 MPH.  The light will turn green and I give it some gas.  Then I get a clunk in the driveline.  It sounds like its coming from the front axle or the tranny/transfer case.  It also happens when I slow down to make a right turn and I try to accelerate out of the turn.  If I'm very gentle on the throttle, I can avoid the clunk.  But that just messes with the tranny shift adaptation.  It also happens when Im on the freeway at over 50 MPH.  I will let of the gas and then quickly step on the gas.  It's like some kind of driveline lash.  Again. Don't know if its the transfer case or front diff.  The car is drivable but its getting annoying.  

     

    I have reset the tranny adaptation with no luck.  I get the occasional 4-3, 3-2 downshift clunks(indicative of a valve body repair) after the reset, but the tranny behaves normally every other time.

     

    So.  I need to find the location of the PSM relay.  I want to disable the PSM and remove the front cardan shaft.  That way I can find out if its my tranny/transfer case or the front diff.

     

    Anyone else run into this problem?  Can someone direct me to where the PSM relay is located?  

     

    Much Appreciated

     

    Jose

    San Diego, CA

  5. Greetings Gentleman.

     

    My CS is getting a little long in the tooth.  After 10 years, I am getting the inevitable rattles, creaks, and groans.  I have this one rattle that seems to be coming from the right right quarter panel.  I inspected the R/R storage area and I came across a peculiar piece.  I had removed the CD player from my system awhile back.  The picture shows a rubbery black strap.  One end is attached the the gas door latch solenoid.  The other end has a triangular nipple that looks like its supposed to into a hole. I found the nipple end just laying unattached.  I don't think this is the source of the rattle but I can't seem to figure out what it is.  

     

    Anyone know what this part is for and how is it supposed to be attached?

     

    img_0265_zpsodw6ko3f.jpg[/img_0266_zpsfjffv8wy.jpg

  6. That's exactly what happened.

    Still trying to figure out why the PCM cuts out and "loads" a CD. I removed the mObridge from the MOST ring and set everything back to the original config. The music would play from the FM tuner and after a few minutes it cuts out and "loads" a CD

    I had to remove the CD mechanism from inside the PCM. Guess what? It still "loads" a CD. Don't know if it's a software issue inside the PCM or if the PCM is on its last legs.

  7. I just had my bonehead moment today.

    A little background. I have a 2006 CS with Bose. I installed a mObridge/Cartronic BT/Ipod module for the PCM. It worked flawless for the past 3 years.

    For the past 3 months, I have been having problems with the PCM. The radio/CD/mObridge would play and then cut out. The PCM screen would display "Loading CD...", the CD mechanism inside the PCM would run, and then the music will come back. If I was on a call thru the mObridge/BT, the "Loading CD.." would kick it and completely drop the BT function. I went to the Porsche Service and had them remove the CD changer from the MOST list as recommended by other mObridge installers.

    A couple of weeks ago then PCM screen started to flicker and the PCM would go into a continuous reboot procedure. After some troubleshooting, I had to remove the CD mechanism inside the PCM for the system to work.

    I thought I had solved the problem. Then it started again. I was noticing that mechanism for the CD changer in the rear would activate occasionally. I thought I had read somewhere that all connectors to the CD changer needed to be removed. I installed the loop on the CD changer fiberoptic connector.

    Here's the bonehead move. I could not remove the other connector to the CD changer. It is a small connector with three wires; a brown, a yellow/orange and a white/orange. In a brilliant dumbass move, I decided to snip the wires. Well... Im up SCHIT creek. Now I lost the phone, amplified and NAV functions. I soldered the wires back and reconnected the whole system. I locked the car and let it sit for 15 mins. Still nothing.

    Any suggestions? Does anyone know if there is a PCM/MOST ring fuse somewhere on the car?

    I guess if I can't get this solved, I'll have to go the aftermarket stereo route. Not happy that I will have to drop $1K or more to get the stereo back.

    Please advise.

    PS: I know I'm idiot. Be gentle.

  8. Hey man I saw you had your seal replaced.. Mine just went out after the coolant pipes did. My question is did you take it to the dealer or individual mechanic? is there a special tool they need? my mechanic said he can do it but he doent think he needs any special tools

    When my coolant pipes let go, I replaced them myself. Fairly easy process. A week later I had the dreaded tranny leak. I took my CS to my indy mechanic. He charged me $1300 to replace the torque converter seal. There were no special tools required. They dropped the tranny and replaced the seal. I have seen other mechanics drop the engine/tranny unit at the same time to remove the tranny and fix it that way.

  9. I received my Cartronics BT/iPod kit yesterday and had it installed and working after 2 hrs or so. I highly recommend this solution. My Sprint Evo works great through the system as does my iPod Touch - though I am still trying to learn how to navigate the Touch on the navi screen. If anyone has any tips I would love to hear them! The instructions for installation were great. The only tips I would have is to disconnect the glovebox light and the AC rubber hose before dropping it out. Also disconnect the courtesy light in the passenger footwell before pulling the panel below the glovebox.

    I ran the mic up behind the console to emerge at the side of the middle vent. Almost invisible there. The sales support guys were very responsive on eMail (even Saturday morning). The unit is marked as belonging to a Mercedes Benz, but they told me they all are now and get pre-configured for our cars before shipping out. I also didnt push the mic connector far enough to fully engage it but they told me what the problem was. A very clean and quick installation and the iPod and phone quality is excellent.

    PKN

    When playing your ipod, are you able to get the song name and artist to display on the PCM? I can only get the song name to be displayed.

  10. I have 2008 v6 cayenne

    I have this problem since I bought this car about 2months ago.

    Whenever I brake while reversing, I can here a loud clunk. Then, the clunk appears 4,5 times more with each braking and stops.

    Somehow I figured out that I have to drive for a while to hear the noise.

    I have been to dealer a couple of times and was told that this is normal because 7 out of 10 gen2 cayenne have the same problem.

    They first said it is probably because of wet weather making the brakes to slip, but then they said the sound is comming from the drivetrain. The sturucture of differential gears, drive shaft and etc are the cause of noise. They said its safe and there is nothing to do about it.

    However, I think the clunk is pretty serious because it's very loud! Anybody has solution?

    I had the same issue with my CS awhile back. I had noticed that the rear brakes were very low. Once in awhile, when in reverse, I would get the clunk. I got the clunk from the left rear brake. I changed out the pad and rotors and the problem went away. I hope that helps.

  11. Hi - i seem to have the exact problem on my 06 Cayenne Turbo; what is the problem as i am baffled and we do not have a Porsche dealership in Kenya. The red fluid comes from the bell housing and even as i wipe it off it reappears and drips down. I had the Coolant Aluminum Kit done even though mine was not leaking and also had the coolant cap cover replaced. Any suggestions?

    Yep. It's your torque converter seal. When you remove and replace the coolant pipes, coolant will inevitably get into the bell housing. Curious design that any fluids in the valley between the heads and under the intake manifold will drain straight into the bell housing and drain out the two holes as shown in the pictures. After the torque converter was contaminated with the coolant fluid, it failed. This only happens with a worn/older seals. I had a small coolant leak and it drain into the bell housing. Since I had my seal replaced with a new one, I did not have any problems(knock on wood).

    The job can be done by any independent mechanic. They will need a lift. The drive shaft, center diff, front drive shaft and the transmission itself have to come off. Since the tranny has to come off, the transmission oil lines are disconnected. You might as well change the transmission oil and filter. My mechanic did the replacement for $1300 US.

  12. I just had a mechanic fix my car after the car dumped antifreeze all over the ground. I didn't drive the car after that issue until it was repaired. After getting the car back for 3 days I have been driving it around actively, without any problems. The mechanic did not install the "breather pipe" that runs from the back of the engine, and connects to the front. It goes on top of the engine, its a plastic T shaped hose. Today he came to install it. After installing it witch took about 15 minutes. We took the car for a test drive around the block. When we pulled back up and looked at another Issues I was possibly having, A knock at the front right of the car, We noticed about a cup or two worth of trans fluid that poured out of the back of the engine block. We both checked any other hoses in that area of the engine and my mechanic said it was probably a seal on the transmission that was leaking. I am in utter shock because I just purchased this car a week ago and have been having one big issue after another. I would appreciate any feedback at all, I need to get some sanity in because I've never experienced such problems with a car before. Thank you

    I had the same problem with my 06 CS. My coolant pipes blew out in April. I replaced them with the upgraded metal pipes without a hitch. Straight forward job. A week later my transmission started leaking about the same amount of fluid as yours. Turned out the the torque converter pump seal wore out. It's a not too uncommon problem for our cars. What happens is that when the coolant pipes rupture, the coolant fluid drains out of the valley towards the back of the engine. This drain goes directly into the bell housing(funky design if you ask me) and the fluid gets all over the torque converter, flywheel and pump seal. The coolant fluid eventually drains out of the two holes under the bell housing. Apparently the coolant fluid attacks the seal, weakens it and causes it to fail. I have read on the other Cayenne forums that the coolant fluid dries up on the seal. When it does, the coolant additives form a kind of micro abrasive that tears up the seal.

    I took my CS to the my indie mechanic. Cost me $1200 to replace the seal. While they were under there, they pointed out to me that my Cardan shaft was not looking very good. The rubber bearing isolator was starting to crack. They could not tell me if it was going to last a year or a week. I decided to replace it as a preemptive strike against future headaches.

    Dont worry. You're not alone. Hang in there. These trucks are worth fixing. I was told that you are never a Porsche owner. You are a Porsche caretaker. biggrin.gif

    OH yeah. Apparently, the TT has a T-connector for one of the coolant pipes behind the engine. This T-connector will eventually fail and spill coolant fluid outside the engine, not from under the intake manifold. Let me see if I can find the thread on that issue.

    Here it is.

    My link

  13. Thanks Loren.

    I did clean it off several times and I let it set for a few hours. Every time I go back and check, it is leaking out of the same hole. I probed the hole(tee hee) with a piece of wire and the ATF comes running out via the capillary effect.

    One thing that I noticed is that the hole has a thread on it. I was wondering if a bolt needs to go there. But the hole in front the leaking one is not threaded.

    I got an estimate from my indy. Worst case scenario... $1300 ouch!

  14. Oh Snap!

    I worked on my CS today. I changed the oil and the water pump. The water pump was not as hard as I thought.

    When I got under the car, I noticed a small reddish oil leak coming from under the car. I removed the underbody panels and found the source of the leak. It is coming from a hole in the bell housing.

    IMG_0120.jpg

    IMG_0122.jpg

    I replaced the coolant tubes last month. I've read that the torque converter pump seal goes out after the tube failure. I guess I need to replace the torque converter pump seal.

    My question is....

    Is it a DYI job? I have the tools and the mad mech skills to do it.

    If its not a DYI, how much am I looking at an indy or the dealership?

    HELP ME OBI-WAN LOREN! YOU'RE MY ONLY HOPE!

    Jose

  15. Sorry - just a show car - the stickers come right off.

    They did this with a Boxster a few years back.

    For the record, it's just a promotional display. During CHP recruitment job fairs, they bring out high end vehicles and place magnetic decals on the vehicles to make them fantasy patrol vehicles. Like this...CHP-Cayenne.jpg

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