Clutch-n-Throttle

I am about to embark in R&R the front upper control arms on my 06 CS. Ive done the lower control arms and I was able to find the torque values for all hardware Does anyone know the torque values for the upper control arms bolts and screws? Or have the service manual for the suspension repair? Like my Daddy(God rest his soul) used to say, "Son. Torque it! Don't dork it!" Thank you Jose

I got under the truck yesterday. I checked those diff bushings. They looked like they had some small cracks in the rubber. I tried moving the diff by hand and it felt fairly tight. I checked the transmission mount that is attached to the cross member. I can easily move the tranny around with my hand. Going to replace that soon. I hear you on the 10 year old truck. Im at the point where I have to decide if Im going to spend the money maintaining it or get myself a newer Cayenne. I love this SUV.

I got it now. Those mounts are for the front axle and differential. I need to check those. Thanks again

Thanks for the quick reply. I was also thinking about changing out the transmission mount. I already changed out the engine mounts and strut arm about 2 years ago. But 3 transmission mounts? I have been under the truck and I only see the main mount on the crossmember. Where are the other two? Most European parts suppliers only offer the main transmission mount that needs to be pressed out of the crossmember. Thanks again Jose

I need some help with my 06 CS(145k miles). I am having a clunk in my driveline and Im trying to isolate the issue. The clunk happens under a specific condition when I am slowing down from over 40 MPH. For example, I begin to slow down for a red light ahead. I let off the gas and brake slightly. I slow down to say 15-25 MPH. The light will turn green and I give it some gas. Then I get a clunk in the driveline. It sounds like its coming from the front axle or the tranny/transfer case. It also happens when I slow down to make a right turn and I try to accelerate out of the turn. If I'm very gentle on the throttle, I can avoid the clunk. But that just messes with the tranny shift adaptation. It also happens when Im on the freeway at over 50 MPH. I will let of the gas and then quickly step on the gas. It's like some kind of driveline lash. Again. Don't know if its the transfer case or front diff. The car is drivable but its getting annoying. I have reset the tranny adaptation with no luck. I get the occasional 4-3, 3-2 downshift clunks(indicative of a valve body repair) after the reset, but the tranny behaves normally every other time. So. I need to find the location of the PSM relay. I want to disable the PSM and remove the front cardan shaft. That way I can find out if its my tranny/transfer case or the front diff. Anyone else run into this problem? Can someone direct me to where the PSM relay is located? Much Appreciated Jose San Diego, CA

Ah yes. Makes sense. Thank you Fellas

Greetings Gentleman. My CS is getting a little long in the tooth. After 10 years, I am getting the inevitable rattles, creaks, and groans. I have this one rattle that seems to be coming from the right right quarter panel. I inspected the R/R storage area and I came across a peculiar piece. I had removed the CD player from my system awhile back. The picture shows a rubbery black strap. One end is attached the the gas door latch solenoid. The other end has a triangular nipple that looks like its supposed to into a hole. I found the nipple end just laying unattached. I don't think this is the source of the rattle but I can't seem to figure out what it is. Anyone know what this part is for and how is it supposed to be attached? [/

I was told you never really own a Porsche. You are merely its caretaker.

I think this will help. Enjoy https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Fixing+Touareg+Gas+Leak/11326

That's exactly what happened. Still trying to figure out why the PCM cuts out and "loads" a CD. I removed the mObridge from the MOST ring and set everything back to the original config. The music would play from the FM tuner and after a few minutes it cuts out and "loads" a CD I had to remove the CD mechanism from inside the PCM. Guess what? It still "loads" a CD. Don't know if it's a software issue inside the PCM or if the PCM is on its last legs.

Uh.... Never mind. It was a blown 5A fuse in the passenger side fuse box. I think it was #9 I can't brain. I got the dumb! :)

I just had my bonehead moment today. A little background. I have a 2006 CS with Bose. I installed a mObridge/Cartronic BT/Ipod module for the PCM. It worked flawless for the past 3 years. For the past 3 months, I have been having problems with the PCM. The radio/CD/mObridge would play and then cut out. The PCM screen would display "Loading CD...", the CD mechanism inside the PCM would run, and then the music will come back. If I was on a call thru the mObridge/BT, the "Loading CD.." would kick it and completely drop the BT function. I went to the Porsche Service and had them remove the CD changer from the MOST list as recommended by other mObridge installers. A couple of weeks ago then PCM screen started to flicker and the PCM would go into a continuous reboot procedure. After some troubleshooting, I had to remove the CD mechanism inside the PCM for the system to work. I thought I had solved the problem. Then it started again. I was noticing that mechanism for the CD changer in the rear would activate occasionally. I thought I had read somewhere that all connectors to the CD changer needed to be removed. I installed the loop on the CD changer fiberoptic connector. Here's the bonehead move. I could not remove the other connector to the CD changer. It is a small connector with three wires; a brown, a yellow/orange and a white/orange. In a brilliant dumbass move, I decided to snip the wires. Well... Im up SCHIT creek. Now I lost the phone, amplified and NAV functions. I soldered the wires back and reconnected the whole system. I locked the car and let it sit for 15 mins. Still nothing. Any suggestions? Does anyone know if there is a PCM/MOST ring fuse somewhere on the car? I guess if I can't get this solved, I'll have to go the aftermarket stereo route. Not happy that I will have to drop $1K or more to get the stereo back. Please advise. PS: I know I'm idiot. Be gentle.

When my coolant pipes let go, I replaced them myself. Fairly easy process. A week later I had the dreaded tranny leak. I took my CS to my indy mechanic. He charged me $1300 to replace the torque converter seal. There were no special tools required. They dropped the tranny and replaced the seal. I have seen other mechanics drop the engine/tranny unit at the same time to remove the tranny and fix it that way.

When playing your ipod, are you able to get the song name and artist to display on the PCM? I can only get the song name to be displayed.

I had the same issue with my CS awhile back. I had noticed that the rear brakes were very low. Once in awhile, when in reverse, I would get the clunk. I got the clunk from the left rear brake. I changed out the pad and rotors and the problem went away. I hope that helps.

Yep. It's your torque converter seal. When you remove and replace the coolant pipes, coolant will inevitably get into the bell housing. Curious design that any fluids in the valley between the heads and under the intake manifold will drain straight into the bell housing and drain out the two holes as shown in the pictures. After the torque converter was contaminated with the coolant fluid, it failed. This only happens with a worn/older seals. I had a small coolant leak and it drain into the bell housing. Since I had my seal replaced with a new one, I did not have any problems(knock on wood). The job can be done by any independent mechanic. They will need a lift. The drive shaft, center diff, front drive shaft and the transmission itself have to come off. Since the tranny has to come off, the transmission oil lines are disconnected. You might as well change the transmission oil and filter. My mechanic did the replacement for $1300 US.

I had the same problem with my 06 CS. My coolant pipes blew out in April. I replaced them with the upgraded metal pipes without a hitch. Straight forward job. A week later my transmission started leaking about the same amount of fluid as yours. Turned out the the torque converter pump seal wore out. It's a not too uncommon problem for our cars. What happens is that when the coolant pipes rupture, the coolant fluid drains out of the valley towards the back of the engine. This drain goes directly into the bell housing(funky design if you ask me) and the fluid gets all over the torque converter, flywheel and pump seal. The coolant fluid eventually drains out of the two holes under the bell housing. Apparently the coolant fluid attacks the seal, weakens it and causes it to fail. I have read on the other Cayenne forums that the coolant fluid dries up on the seal. When it does, the coolant additives form a kind of micro abrasive that tears up the seal. I took my CS to the my indie mechanic. Cost me $1200 to replace the seal. While they were under there, they pointed out to me that my Cardan shaft was not looking very good. The rubber bearing isolator was starting to crack. They could not tell me if it was going to last a year or a week. I decided to replace it as a preemptive strike against future headaches. Dont worry. You're not alone. Hang in there. These trucks are worth fixing. I was told that you are never a Porsche owner. You are a Porsche caretaker. OH yeah. Apparently, the TT has a T-connector for one of the coolant pipes behind the engine. This T-connector will eventually fail and spill coolant fluid outside the engine, not from under the intake manifold. Let me see if I can find the thread on that issue. Here it is. My link

You can access the CD changer by pressing the CD button again. Since you do not have the CD magazine, you will get a NO CD IN CHANGER (or something similar) error message.

Any updates? I am planning on changing out my brakes with a similar setup. I plan on using Zimmerman rotors with Hawk HPS pads.

Thanks Loren. I did clean it off several times and I let it set for a few hours. Every time I go back and check, it is leaking out of the same hole. I probed the hole(tee hee) with a piece of wire and the ATF comes running out via the capillary effect. One thing that I noticed is that the hole has a thread on it. I was wondering if a bolt needs to go there. But the hole in front the leaking one is not threaded. I got an estimate from my indy. Worst case scenario... $1300 ouch!

Oh Snap! I worked on my CS today. I changed the oil and the water pump. The water pump was not as hard as I thought. When I got under the car, I noticed a small reddish oil leak coming from under the car. I removed the underbody panels and found the source of the leak. It is coming from a hole in the bell housing. I replaced the coolant tubes last month. I've read that the torque converter pump seal goes out after the tube failure. I guess I need to replace the torque converter pump seal. My question is.... Is it a DYI job? I have the tools and the mad mech skills to do it. If its not a DYI, how much am I looking at an indy or the dealership? HELP ME OBI-WAN LOREN! YOU'RE MY ONLY HOPE! Jose

Sometimes when I turn the steering wheel, I'll inadvertently hit the Triptronic swith on the steering wheel. This causes the tranny to shift to a lower gear. If its at slow speed, it will shift to the first gear. Just an additional tidbit

This is what I have been using for the past two years. CIPA Universal Towing Mirror You can see it on my CS. I only use the left side. I had both and one of the clips broke off. I realized that the left side was sufficient when towing.

For the record, it's just a promotional display. During CHP recruitment job fairs, they bring out high end vehicles and place magnetic decals on the vehicles to make them fantasy patrol vehicles. Like this...

Dont get caught speeding in Kalifornia!