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GaryR

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Posts posted by GaryR

  1. I did not notice that detail when I took the picture but you are right.  Since the left is intake and the right is exhaust, the way they were done sort of makes sense to me.  Or maybe the guy that cut the vents just screwed up.

    Yikes! That is one major screw up if it is... :eek: no WAY they should be reversed unless i'm looking at them incorrectly.

  2. You may want to reconsider, This is the last year[05] for the M3. There will not be one made in 06, they are talking about possibly 07, or 08 with it being a M4 with a V8 engine.

    That's a rumor i've heard also, that the V8 is basically the M5's modular V10 with two less cylinders. Don't care what they call it, M4, M3.5, whatever. The current M3 looks exactly like my 330Ci inside and out and after 4 years i'm ready for a change. Didn't pick up on an enormous difference in power, though it is supposedly 100HP stronger. That may just have been me though..

    :drive:

  3. Even though the part numbers are 997 numbers the parts diagram looks just like the 996. So the answer based on that would be no adjustment for the brake pedal. The clutch pedal should have a very small amount of adjustment by using the the threaded rod on the clutch master cylinder.

    Thanks Loren. Wonder if there is an aftermarket adjustable assemby available? I suppose I will adapt to it if I have to..

  4. It seems to arise deep within the sun roof (when the roof is open) and roof lining as I'm not able to access the origin of the rattle.  Can't figure out if it is a design prob or just that I'm lucky... When the sun roof is closed, it is fine.  Any help is appreciated...

    Had mine open for the first time yesterday and did not notice any rattles at all, up to just over 80MPH anyway. I would hit your service dept.

    :drive:

  5. I purchased an '03 996 C2 last fall, and I plan on attending some of the track events through the local club this coming spring.  My understanding is that in addition to a sound car with good tires & brakes, I will also need a racing harness, helmet, leather shoes, gloves and racing numbers.  Can anyone give me suggestions on brands and outlets for these items? 

    Any additional input that anyone can offer would be welcomed as well!

    Thank you.

    You can start looking at some of the equipment by going to the manufacturers sites and then looking for distributors in your area (which is WHERE in the USA?). For instance you can go to Sparco's main site ( http://www.sparcousa.com/ ) to find their outlets. If your confident of size you can buy online at places like Race Depot ( http://www.theracedepot.com/ ). Sparco, Bell, Impact, Simpson, etc.. all the best brands are there. Don't forget a Halon Fire Extinguisher and mount (check your club/track requirements).

    Good luck!

    :thumbup:

  6. Very nice Chris, I see you already installed the clear side markers, anything else?

    I have the clears, Carnewal pedal set, and am considering the Fabspeed SS exhaust and cold air kit along with the OEM short shifter next.

    One rear to another.. hehe. I fixed the crooked plate, idiot at dealer created two NEW mounting holes for plate bracket!

    Rear_low8-6.jpg

    :cheers:

  7. Hi

    This my first time

    Can anybody tell where to buy, and approx cost, a high quality car bra, for my 1999 gt3

    I assume they don't rub and damage the paint

    Living in australia i assume the only difference between cars sold in australia and the rest of the world is the size of the front number plate

    Thanks

    Neil -

    I would look into someone local installing a clear bra using 3M or Venture material. Do a search on the internet for clear bras or go directly to the mfg sites and start there. The "old style" bras look like hell (to me), require maintenance, and often damage the paint.

    :cheers:

  8. I do it myself, but I use Midas (cost $20) tp change the BMW's oil for me cuz its quicker and I don't have to remove the shroud while I'm laying on my back.

    On my 2001 330Ci all you have to remove is one screw (half-turn) to release a small (maybe 6"x6") cover plate to get to the drain plug. Did they change that? My wife will possibly be getting a 2006 M3, just curious..

  9. Even if it is, I sure wouldn't wait that long before changing the oil.  One of the reasons for changing the oil is to look at its condition.  It can tell you alot about the operation of the engine. (such as excesive moisture, burning. etc).  I would recommend at least annually or 10,000 miles (at most), whichever comes sooner.  Changing the oil is cheap and easy to do.  It will cost you $60 and less than 1/2 hour of your time.  If you don't want to do it yourself, get the oil and filter ($60.00) and take the car to a Jiffy Lube and they will do it for $20.  Total cost is $80.00.  I have no idea why people would pay the dealer to do this.

    Agree 100%, thats why I intend on changing my "break-in" oil/filter at 5K or less. Worst case scenario is I used 9 Qts of oil up.. after that I plan on changing every 8-10K or one year, whichever comes 1st. As for Jiffy-Lube, I wouldn't let them touch my Jeep, let alone my Porsche or BMW, but thats me!

  10. Welcome to the board  :welcome:

    Here in the US the maintenance interval is 15,000 miles, and if you check out the DIY section of this board, everything you need to know how to do these maintenances is there.  While the DIY info is targeted at the 996 owner, 997 service is identical.  Servicing a 996 or 997 is easier than a Toyota.

    Thanks for the reply and welcome Orient! I'm 99% sure the 997 Service is at 20K, but i'll look in the manual again! Will go check out the DIY section now.. thanks again!

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