torontoworker

No worries Robert. I'm willing to bet that it does sound a lot better when you step on it. I wish I had access to injection molding equipment - I would love to try out some ram air enclosed housing designs for these cone air filter systems. The other thing is the design of the upper plastic grill work on the top of the OEM wing could be enhanced for better airflow into the intake. FYI: the engine bay fan draws air out of the engine area - not pulling it in. The idea is to cause negative pressure so that the heat is sucked out instead of pressurizing the engine bay which would stall out the cooling effect. Most people do report a 'crisper' throttle response with the e gas and aftermarket intakes so that might be worth the money right there. I've got access this summer (I help out with tech inspection sometimes) to a portable dyno at the track (Mosport) that I might try out with a before/after test of the CAI against the OEM pipe to see if there is any HP gain. Cheers - keep it shiny side up!

FYI: Just bought a 1L bottle of 'Porsche' brand coolant and the parts guy says that Porsche now use ONE coolant for all models of cars and SUV's. They used to sell 'pink' color and there was a greenish and the *new* coolant is a pee colored yellowish. It can be mixed in with any of the older Porsche brands.

The thing I notice is that you have kept the stock plastic intake which seems to dump air to only a small part of the filter area which is better then most of these set up's where people remove the OEM tube. In most K&N and other aftermarket air filter set up's they remove the tube. The issue I have with the open concept of these K&N type systems is that your engine bay is a dirty hot environment - it really is. All that road dust and grit gets up in there and has to go somewhere and with the intake suction, your going to have to be cleaning that filter quite often. I won't get into the oiled filters/maf issues but simply put; your going from a semi ram affect with the factory set up to a filter that is taking mostly ambient air pressure inside the engine bay. I'm not sure if the engine cares about ram affect (some say yes, some no) but if you look at the 997 setup's with dual enclosed intake systems it must have *some* positive benefits - same with the RS and RSR's having small deflectors on the rear wing to direct a kind of ram air flow into the top wing vents. It would seem to me that the key here is engine breathing and that maintaining some sort sort of ram effect while increasing the sq area of filter material while reducing it's restriction (two non complementary ideals) would be best. If the two major aftermarket intake companies came up with fully enclosed housings and some sort of ram air effect then I could buy into these types of equipment upgrades 'easier'. I just think the factory by going with a narrow rectangular tube, (higher air pressure) and drawing air through the grill work of the factory wing would surprise people on how efficient the original design is. I have a CAI tube after my factory air box - I did it for sound mainly. Does it *feel* better? Sort of - but would need to dyno a before and after and I'm not willing to spend $75 bucks to disappoint myself. LOL It was a cheap upgrade that makes the WFO throttle position wake up everyone around me when going up on ramps. I've just put on a GT3 wing on my C2 and bodged up a diverter inside the wing to separate the warm engine bay heat from the engine bay fan. It was being drawn down into the second hole (only 3" away) inside the wing that leads to the OEM intake. Along with that I made an internal scoop just under the wing slot that grabs more air and channels it into the OEM intake tube. I was after *cool* air into the intake instead of *warm* air and these K&N type housings are grabbing warm engine bay air instead *cooler* outside air. We all know about O2 molecules/air densities and temperature right? I think these aftermarket filters should be modified so that they are enclosed within a housing and not left open to the engine bay environments. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for your support Loren - drove around the block tonight and the ECM must have reset - no wing up/down light! Thanks again.

Yes - there are no micro switches in the new harness. I'll plug my cable into the OB2 tomorrow (durametric's software on my laptop) and see what it says. I can't recall but perhaps I can reset it. I'll let you know.

Hi Loren, well I put the new harness in (part #996 612 070 51) from the dealer and it has solved the issue with the 3rd brake light - it's back working again. But the wing 'down' light is still on the dash as before. Is this a matter of the system 'learning' the new cable is in as I can't get the car on the road until the morning to drive it around or do I fool around with pin settings. The quick and dirty solution is black tape. (Grin) But I would rather solve it the right way if I can.

It's a 99 C2 tip. If I have to get the harrness - is it part # 996 612 070 51 ($128 at Pelican - not in stock) Thanks for your help. Here's a picture of the wing...

I was afraid you were going to say that... :) I was going to do the pin 2 to pin 5 mod (for dash light) and then figure out which pin I could connect to fool the change over switch for the upper/lower 3rd stop light.

So I'm putting on a GT3 rear wing on my C2 and all goes well except for the top third brake light up on the chassis isn't working! Seems that cutting the wires to the third brake light on the moving spoiler wasn't a good idea as they must be connected in series. Does anyone know if the fix for this is simply joining the two spoiler wires that I cut - back together to complete the circuit??

Thanks Mike. It's a 1999 996 C2 Tip

I have Durametric software that has many sensors that can be read either real time on my laptop or also logged to an excel spreadsheet. Problem 1. I don't know enough about what is a 'good' number or a 'bad' number for some of these sensor readings. Problem 2. Under what conditions should I record this info? IE. A short drive at different RPM's or just idle for a few minutes after coming up to operating temp's in the driveway? Some conditions such as cockpit/outside temp's are silly while others such as O2 sensor volts (which I had a previous fault code for) may mean something. The software records up to 8 sensors at a time before you have to start another file name to maintain the cell names for each sensor. To make it easy, which are the 8 sensors that would give you an idea of the health of your engine? I didn't count them but there appears to be over 20 sensors that it can read in total. If someone can give me an idea of what is the best testing situation to use, (a short drive or idle) I could post the excel file here for comments. Right now the only problem I have is a start up idle too low issue (it wavers up and down from 400-600) that goes away in about a minute or so once the temp gauge appears to be moving upward. No CEL's but an old code concerning P0150/P0130 - something about voltage ahead of the cat's. I've cleared the codes and will drive the car for a few days and then recheck. Thanks

Chuck, I have the same Schnell intake as you have an quite like it, I feel I get a bit better throttle response and love the sound. The small bypass pipe *can* be blocked off as you say at the box side, but the open top part of the pipe (after the MAF) will create a 'dead zone' for air flow and I have no idea what that would do for airflow unless you blocked that section off as well. At that point I think it's a moot point as your half way to a modified intake and not quite as far as the Schnell or Fabspeed design.

Ok... now what? From the Xenonmods website: Found lot's of them on eaby.

Actually - the term 'cross drilled' applies to cheap after market rotor companies that tried to reinvent the rotor on the cheap. They saw what the OEM spec's were and fired up the drill presses as it is cheaper for them but not for you in the long run. 1. Porsche OEM rotors are all CAST holes at the time of manufacture and are not 'drilled' after the fact. 2. The holes are there to clean the pad's of debris (wiping motion) more then for cooling, however there is a side benifit to the holes for cooling as the center slots on the rotor and their unidirectional (check your part numbers! Plus the R or L stamped on them) internal pathways do connect with the holes in the rotors.

Someone mentioned snow... Never use fog lamps in snow - all you do is light up the all the flakes as they hit the front of your car. I've had to drive in heavy snow and the best solution (other then pulling over) was turning my head lamps off and running with the lower watt DRL's and I found that I could see much further down the road. Many places in northern Canada - there is no where to pull over (all sloping gravel into deep ditches) or there is a great risk of being hit from behind if you do stop. *Less* lighting is actually better in extreme conditions as your eyes adjust to the distance and your brain seems to ignore the thousands of flakes hitting the windshield - more so when the frontal area isn't lit up like it was a rock concert. I always shake my head when I see someone with high beams on or fog lamps on in heavy snow. Fog lamps for fog only and on 996's - the fog lamps are still mounted too high to really be of any good. If you want better protection in really bad weather, turn on your 4 ways. If you have to consider the 4 ways then you really should be finding a safe place to park if you have that option anyway. Half the time up here we just follow the blue flashing lights (snowplows) anyway and the last guy in line uses his 4 ways until the next hanger on joins the line and then he turns his 4 ways on! (This is only one reason why I store my 996 for the winter! :) )

I have been warned to use ONLY Porsche brand ATF fluid ( Pentosin, part# 000-043-207-00-M210 ) in my Tip as all others *may* screw up the gearbox. Did they use a non Porsche brand ATF fluid? Is so that may be the problem right there.

Just as a side note: There is a process to protect CF from UV rays and any good CF product sold for street vehicles should already have it applied already. It is a clear coat system and it is baked on as the final process. If you buy off shore (China) you will most likely not get the coating. If you buy a hood made out of CF and you paid under $1000 then dollars to none - you have a cheap non UV coated part. You also have to be careful when you paint CF products as some paint material is not recommended for carbon without special prep and primer being used. The other issue is the product itself should be the proper material for road use as there are many people using the wrong weave and lay up without any reenforcement at high stress points. Even the use of the wrong scissors when cutting the material, the wrong direction of cut and poor curing can be an issue. Don't even get me started on poor storage temperatures for the material and or out of date material that should have been thrown out but was used anyway. There are more ways then Saturdays to screw up the manufacturing of products made out of this material and you don't want to find out the hard way during a track day when your hood fly's open and smashes against your wind screen (seen it happen personally) because the latch pulled right out of the material because it saw half the pressure and half the temperature in the autoclave that it should have seen. Thats the difference between a hood costing $1000 and one costing $2500 and like others have said here - let the Honda nation play with them - they only do 300KPH... in their dreams!

Thanks for the info. I can confirm that the dial is at zero when power is applied and as soon as you crank the engine the needle goes straight up to 5 and stays there. Is the sender in a location (lower part of block) that could be reached by a DIY? I have a mechanic who I bring all my other cars to but he doesn't have any special tools for Porsche's - but is this a no-brainer repair for a normal mechanic or is it wise to take it to a Porsche specialist?

120K, no issues.

I hope this isn't a dumb question but I am a new owner of a 1999 996 C2 'Tip' for all of a week now. I have noticed that the oil pressure needle never moves off the top setting of #5. Is there a problem here? The car runs well, has no leaks andno other problems. I had a PPI at a local dealer which didn't report any issues with this item. I know I would be freaking if it hit 0 but I've had other cars that the pressure did change depending on temp of engine or air temp/load on engine. Do I have a problem with the needle pegged at 5? Thanks