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Everything posted by torontoworker

  1. Add me to the list: 2016 3.6 with 41000Km's requires new transfer case under CPO. Location of work: Porsche Center Oakville Symptoms: Herkey/jerky acceleration in low gears. 2 week wait for back ordered (Germany) parts and NOW a 4 week wait for install.
  2. On second thought - this solenoid may be the shift interlock solenoid to prevent shifting from park without foot on the brake and key in the ignition powered up.
  3. Hi all, I've got a 99 996C2 with a Tiptronic gearshift issue. When going over bumps the gearshift handle will move over to Auto position from Manual on its own. Too keep it in manual you have to hold it there. Its as if there is no more mechanical or frictional force being applied to keep the handle in the manual position any longer. You can move it back and froth with your pinky. I've looked through the service manual and cannot find a tension spring in the parts list. Looking at the whole assembly in pictures - the only thing I can see is a solenoid (circled in red) under the housing. Is it possible that this system uses the solenoid to keep the gear leaver in the manual position as soon as the micro switch is pressed in by the lever? I can't see any other item such as a fiction or tension spring that would keep this lever to the left in manual mode. I can buy a whole new *used* housing for around $100 or a new OEM for $1600! The failure was a night/day situation. One minute everything fine - then not. Clearly not something worn out as you would suspect a gradual once in awhile issue - not a sudden failure which is why I thought of a spring falling out or broken. Thanks
  4. Yes bought used. Where is the engine # located? Can I side under the car and spot it or does the car have to be on a hoist? I'm located in Canada and the car came from Vegas. How would I check if it had a salvage record? The CarFax came back clean. This might sound silly but I can't ever remember these VINS not matching - I've owned the car for six years and used Durametric's on it many times. Is it possible this was done during service? I had an issue last year with many O2 codes and cly codes and after a lot of work with new coils, MAF, spark plugs, etc. between two indy's I got the car to pass clean air tests. Would someone have swapped out the DME to problem solve and not put the old one back? That doesn't make sense considering the hours listed on this DME unless you could update the data in some way. I'd be interested to see what CarFax has to say on the DME VIN - like what happened to THAT car?
  5. I don't know if I never noticed this before but I was checking codes from a CEL I got and took a look at the data section (Durametrics) on my car and noticed that the VIN given in the DME does not match with the chassis VIN. My VIN in the window is WPOAA299XXS623350 yet the ECU VIN is WPOAA2993XS620242. Does this mean that at some point the DME was changed? I've got just over 186kms (115500 miles) on the car and the engine hours state 2961. Engine ser# from the DME says WO4873
  6. Update: Success! A lession in Murphy's Law. It was a bad MAF. But... the indy who had swapped out my MAF for another and tried this newish part from another car he had in that day - put in a MAF from an egas car - not a MAF from a 'cable gas' car. No wonder there was no improvement. It took another shop to figure this out. The part numbers are different and the operation on the Motronic is important. Clean air test went perfect after. No new cat's needed. Just like doctors - second opinions are always good! Thats for your suggestions here - it helped me to decide to try another shop.
  7. I think in the morning I'm going to bring my laptop out to the car - plug into the OB2, place it on the passenger seat and record the fuel trim numbers while I drive (I have Amateur Durametric for the 5.2.2). Any other settings I should select? I think there is a limited number of modes I can record and store to an excel sheet at a time.
  8. He was looking at the O2's using Durametric (pro ver with a new update) and the real time numbers looked fine with car running. Fuel trim?? Affecting both banks? I've got no codes for injector issues, no codes such as 420/430 (Cat's). I currently have 1124/1126 in memory (Rich Threshold) So far... No CEL - yet. Although it's been under 50km's since a code clear.
  9. I have a 1999 - 996C2 'Tip' with 160K (kms) Two weeks ago the car's idle went south - really ranging all over and the CEL came on. Codes were P1317 (Misfire cly 5), P130, (Bank 1 before Cat O2 range), P150 (Band 2 before cat, O2 range), P1124, (Bank 1 O2 Sensing) and P126 (Band 2 O2 sensing) So my mechanic pulled the number 5 plug and noticed it was oiled up and that the coils were origanal to the car. The thoughts were that the coil in #5 went bad causing the misfire which generated the other codes. So... Six new plugs - six new coils installed. Codes cleared. Within 20kms driving away from the shop the CEL comes back on. I read the codes when I get home and phone my mechanic. With the exception of the misfire code - the other four codes all relating to the pre cat o2's are back. Next step was changing the pre 02 sensors. The post sensors are six months old. He cleared the codes and within 50kms the same codes were back on. The idle is rough and hunting around between 700-800rpm once warmed up and stopped at a light. I notice that foot on the brake/foot off the brake makes a difference in the idle. Foot on the brake it drops as low as 500rpm. Take your foot off the brake and it rises to 700rpm in drive (Tip). The car warms up with a lot of black carbon even spitting a bit of it on the garage floor with a bit of water and the tailpipes are coated with carbon like never before. Looks like it is running rich? There is NO smoke at anytime either before it comes up to temp or after, or if you hit the throttle hard. There does not seem to be a loss of power - throttle pick up is still crisp - although the engine note above 3000rpm seems 'throatier'. MAF was two years old but we swapped it with one from a car that was running fine. It made no difference and all four codes came back. If you run this car in this condition - the CEL will come on inside of 100kms. The #5 plug was pulled again just to check on it. I had a great fear that I had either a ring issue or a cly wall score issue. The plug didn't seem to bad but it only has 200km's on it. The only thing my mechanic is now suggesting is that I have a bad cat. Now there is a bit of a rattle out of one (passenger bank) but my question is can a bad cat cause these codes, idle issue and black carbon issue? I know a misfire dumping fuel in can cause a bad cat but I never had any flashing CEL's. Someone suggested that the cat could be plugged up causing an issue but why do both bank pre cat sensors come on and why both banks with equal carbon? I can't pass a clean air test in this condition as even without a CEL - my area will not pass a car with these codes in memory even without a CEL on. About ready to tear my hair out. So what if I replace both cat's and it doesn't fix the issue - that's my big worry. I'm temped to install a new MAF just to eliminate that area - as his used one *could* have been an issue. The MAF even at $130 - it's cheaper then a Fabspeed 200 CEL sport cat (which is the option I'm thinking about as factory cats are $2K EACH!) I just don't know why a bad cat would affect the motronic into a fuel rich state. Is it possible?
  10. Bill: I have a 99 C2 'tip' that I am considering having the IMS replaced bearing replaced in a few weeks as a preventative measure. I have 125000km's on the car's and change the oil on or before 5K with 5/40 after recently changing from 0/40. Can you comment on the following: 1. 0/40 ver's 5/40 oil. (I was told by my mechanic that the 5/40 is better for our temp range in Canada for these engines) over the 0/40. 2. The 'theory' on the street is that tiptronic cars have fewer IMS issues because the over rev issue is eliminated - so therefore less potential damage? Some say the low percentages of 'tips' with IMS failures is a reflection of the lower number of 'tip's produced yet others say the numbers reported even using per-capita produced - are still lower then manual gearbox cars. So whats your feeling on 'how' the transmission can interact with this failure mode? 3. Is ambient heat an issue with IMS failures - say Scottsdale in mid summer against our rather lower peak summer heat of mid 80's F.? 4. I store my car during the winter here - mid Nov through to mid March without turning it over once. I change the oil before and after. Is this a poor procedure for an engine with an IMS design? Should the car be fired over and run for 20 minutes every week instead? 5. My car is a mid year 1999 - is it a single row bearing type? Are these the worst? Thanks for your great input here.
  11. I did after market side skirts, front wing and GT 3 rear wing. Had them all painted at the same time by my painter. Front and side skirts were Razzi and the rear wing was from Asia. All fit pretty good. Prep is everything with painting so spend your money on a good painter. The rear wing harness is not bad option to buy as without the updated harness the third brake light won't work on top of the light for spoiler up/down is annoying - the light on the dash also does double duty as engine cover UNLATCHED. Always paint to sample - not paint codes. Take the old plastic cover off the wing and give it to your painter to match to.
  12. New belt needed. Tension is supplied by this unit - either tensioner has a defect or belt is the issue. This is not an issue to ignore. Loren could confirm but I think the belt is rated for 50K miles or five years?
  13. Hi Jimmy, they are your normal ebay LED tail lights that are the whole housing with internal LED wiring that you plug into the wiring loom. I think you use two of the old bulbs in the housing and all others hook up the LED's through a wired in base that you push into the empty plug outlets. I'm sure you've seen them around here or on ebay, (sorry no pic's of mine as I'm at work). Mine are clear signals until you hit the turn signal and the LED's light up a very bright yellow. The brake section is red - also very bright. I blew the marker light 7.5amp fuses joining the small corner marker (fog) lights because the supplier did not have instruction NOT to hook these up. I found this out later from other posts on Rennlist and 6gear. So the tail lights work well aside from the hyper flash issue which is why I bought two power resistors to fix that issue. Later I have another person asking me why didn't I just buy some *electronic* relay for this circuit. Good question: I was told by others that the relay would not fix this issue alone and when I did check part numbers there is no such thing as an upgraded relay unless I pop in 997 relays that could or could not work. I did find a supplier who makes LED replacement bulbs that you can replace the two incandesent lamps still left over and they have a built in resistor in the base of the lamp to fix the low .05amp issue that in theory would be plug in play in any normal old style tail light housings. I'm going to try those next in a few weeks and let people know how they work. If they work you could replace all your lamps with them without changing the whole housing. I hated the yellow/red housing anyway which is why I went for the whole replacement deal. (and got a good deal on them to boot) But if there is a quick plug in play of a relay that fixes the hyper flash issue when you go from the old units to new LED units then I'm all over that even if the relay install is a 20 minute job for me - the plug and play relay may work best for most people - if it in fact works. Cheers.
  14. So I have a debate going on with myself after someone asked the question, why not just change the direction signal relay to a relay that is 'electronic' instead of the route I am taking by installing power resistors 6ohm/50w for each LED taillight I am installing on my 99C2. The power resistors were like $10 shipped to me and are an easy install and they WILL fix the super quick flash rate of the turn signals back to the normal flash rate - but I'm wondering if the relay is an even quicker plug in fix? I'm not quite sure that there is a plug and play upgrade for 99's as Porsche show 997 part numbers but the relay I would need has the same part 996 number online as installed on mine in the fuse box. Anyone use the relay mod to fix the hyper flash issue for LED's and if so, what part number?
  15. I'm not clear here: Who did the welding - the retail outlet or the member here?
  16. I changed my oil on the weekend but I think I got the oil ring on the wrong groove. I've got an oil leak under operation but not with car sitting and engine off. My question is: How much oil will I lose if I remove the filter housing and reset the O ring into the right slot? I'm wondering how far up into the sump the oil filter housing sits and how much of the oil is below this level. The car is parked for the winter now so this can wait until spring as it doesn't leak while sitting there, but if it's easier to just pop the plug out and drain it all into the oil pan then so be it - I just hate to have to transfer the whole load back and forth like this next year if un-screwing the filter housing will only cost me a couple of quarts. Next time I'll watch the hell what I'm doing when putting on that O ring instead of taking cell calls while under the car! The silly thing is: there are two wider slots on the housing, one right up close and under the lip (where I placed it) and another the same size slot a little below. You'd think Porsche would have ONE slot for the O ring only? Not getting why there are two to make a mistake from unless at some point the orig design had two O rings instead of the current one? I've still got the older O ring and it's in perfect condition - wonder what happens if you use two O rings? My bet is it wouldn't seat right or req more torque. Thanks
  17. You'll find that EU Autowerks comes highly recommended by a lot of people. The owners name is Courtney and I have never been disapointed by his service or pricing. He's just up the 400 past Steeles. For in town: Hunter Racing (don't let the 'racing' part deter you) in Etobicoke, owners name is Brent. Also have heard good things from them. West end in Oakville is Mantis Racing on Speers Road, owners name is Ernie and he is a great guy. All three of these indy's are PCA/UCR approved for Drvers Ed checks. As you note, finding a good Indy in the east is hard - I'd rather travel a bit further to find the right place then use distance as a qualifier for a servce provder. EU is closer to you I think then the others and I've had work done by them and can give a thumbs up - Courney is one of the few tech's in Canada who is an independent who also has factory training as his past was with DFC and Pfaff. Mantis is closer to me and I know the owner from World Challenge Series and Ontario regional racing and he won't rip you off. So any of these three would be a good pick. Good luck.
  18. Considering the costs in Norway - wouldn't it be cheaper to ship the whole car to Autofarm in the UK and have them work on it. I know a guy in Norway who works for Shell and paid to have his 930 sent via flatbed across the Ferry to the UK. From what I understand the cost of living is way higher in Norway then the UK and perhaps there will be no dudy on the 'repair' of a car that is being re-exported back out of the UK after repair as well as no VAT for non-resident?? You'll have to check with a broker to find out for sure but it *looks* like it is possible to get relielf on the VAT. Autofarm charges 9834.00 (Pounds) for an installed 3.6 (91538.00 Nor Kroner or $15533.00USD) or 8778.00 (pounds) for a 3.4 You could either get a rebuild or repair after shipping it over and then drive it home. Sharpen your pencils and figure out what is best!
  19. How much lower will your car be after you install the new springs? My car has a set of H&R "sport" springs on it and they lowered it by 30 mm (ca. 1.25 in). This is great, except that the rear wheel alignment could no longer be made to achieve factory specs this way. I needed to install a set of adjustable upper rear control arms in order to get my rear wheel camber specs from being too negative and causing (very) excessive inner tread wear on the rear tires. The specs for the springs say 'up to' 1,2 inches lower. I guess I'll find out after they put it on the machine and check the settings. I'm planning on letting it sit in my garage for a week and then getting the alignment done after that so if it looks like an issue I'll park it for the winter and then put new front and rear control arms in it in the spring. I was planning on upgrading to the GT3 parts anyway in the future but was holding off for next years budget! Doing the rotors and pads this week so I don't need to freak out the spouse too many weeks in a row with other added items. :) I've also taken jetbox's comments concerning the top mounts into my plan as a 'just in case' part of the budget planing. I had a quote from an indy to do the install and alignment for $700 and I am gettinga second quote this week to see if that is in the ball park. The first guy who owns the shop is very good, he races a 996 in region racing here in Canada and races a Cayman in SCCA World Challenge.
  20. Yes and no. Sure you can turn off the light. But... You can disconnect the battery and the light will go out and reset everything else in the dme memory including radio codes but once the sensors have 'touched down' they wear through a small filiment in the sensor head thus causing an open electrical path as Steve mentioned. As sson as you turn the car on again the brake light will come back on again. So it's really no, you can't turn off the light and make it stay that way without fixing the issue. Think of it as you've blown a fuze and you just keep putting a new fuze in without figuring out the cause. The sensors are plug and play but you've got to take all the wheels off again to get at them unless you've got a lift or have skinny arms which I don't! If you get a deal they are $15 each or $25 at a dealer. It's a cheap safety item - so go out and buy the sensors and install them or have them installed. Chears
  21. I'm changing from factory OEM springs to Champion Motor Sports springs (lowering springs) which appear to be made by H&R. I've had my shocks checked and they are in great condition, but the indy didn't mention if there are any other wear items above / below the springs where they make contact. Are there any wear items or rubber donuts / spring plates that I should order ahead of time? I don't want him to get the thing in the air and *then* get a call from that he needs to order some small part I could have given him ahead of time and now I have to wait extra days to get the car back. (FYI:I've got a 99 C2). Thanks.
  22. I have a 996 Tip - there are NO lights for this - it's just a piece of plastic as a cover with painted letters. Porsche must figure if they don't install six speed position lights for manual then why the heak would auto users need them? :) Besides - you've got the gear position lights on your speedo anyway...
  23. No the brakes lights still functioned - just the upper 3rd brake light was out. The harness for the rear wing is a branch off the rear brake light/tail light harness. In fact you can disconnect the wing harness and it does not affect your main brake lights - I had the spouse check this for me before I drove the car around until I could get the right part. The reason why I had no 3rd brake light is because the wiring harness has a two micro switches built into the back of the lid up/down bracket and when the lid goes up it uncovers one switch to turn OFF the upper 3rd brake light and at the same time the 2nd switch is uncovered which turns ON the 3rd brake light that is on the edge of the movable wing which is normally hidden from view when the wing is down. This is so that you don't have a current draw to both 3rd lights if you hit the brakes. I could have played around for days and days jumping wires but in the end it was easier to go to Porsche and just buy the darn harness which solved the problems. The only baffling thing is as Loren pointed out is the light for the wing will still come on until the car begins to move then it does not come on at all from then until you turn the ignition off. I was temped to just put a piece of tape over the light on the dash until I also remembered that this light does double duty and is a warning light for the rear engine bay lid 'open'. So it was a learning experience to have all the right parts at hand and don't just fly in there and root around. No one died during this experimentation... :)
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