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torontoworker

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About torontoworker

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  • From
    Ontario
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 996 C2
    2011 CTS 3.6L coupe
    2016 Cayenne
    1993 Mazda MX3
  • Future cars
    AWD SUV
  • Former cars
    66 427 Vette Convert

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  1. Add me to the list: 2016 3.6 with 41000Km's requires new transfer case under CPO. Location of work: Porsche Center Oakville Symptoms: Herkey/jerky acceleration in low gears. 2 week wait for back ordered (Germany) parts and NOW a 4 week wait for install.
  2. On second thought - this solenoid may be the shift interlock solenoid to prevent shifting from park without foot on the brake and key in the ignition powered up.
  3. Hi all, I've got a 99 996C2 with a Tiptronic gearshift issue. When going over bumps the gearshift handle will move over to Auto position from Manual on its own. Too keep it in manual you have to hold it there. Its as if there is no more mechanical or frictional force being applied to keep the handle in the manual position any longer. You can move it back and froth with your pinky. I've looked through the service manual and cannot find a tension spring in the parts list. Looking at the whole assembly in pictures - the only thing I can see is a solenoid (circled i
  4. Yes bought used. Where is the engine # located? Can I side under the car and spot it or does the car have to be on a hoist? I'm located in Canada and the car came from Vegas. How would I check if it had a salvage record? The CarFax came back clean. This might sound silly but I can't ever remember these VINS not matching - I've owned the car for six years and used Durametric's on it many times. Is it possible this was done during service? I had an issue last year with many O2 codes and cly codes and after a lot of work with new coils, MAF, spark plugs, etc. between two indy's I got the car to p
  5. I don't know if I never noticed this before but I was checking codes from a CEL I got and took a look at the data section (Durametrics) on my car and noticed that the VIN given in the DME does not match with the chassis VIN. My VIN in the window is WPOAA299XXS623350 yet the ECU VIN is WPOAA2993XS620242. Does this mean that at some point the DME was changed? I've got just over 186kms (115500 miles) on the car and the engine hours state 2961. Engine ser# from the DME says WO4873
  6. Update: Success! A lession in Murphy's Law. It was a bad MAF. But... the indy who had swapped out my MAF for another and tried this newish part from another car he had in that day - put in a MAF from an egas car - not a MAF from a 'cable gas' car. No wonder there was no improvement. It took another shop to figure this out. The part numbers are different and the operation on the Motronic is important. Clean air test went perfect after. No new cat's needed. Just like doctors - second opinions are always good! Thats for your suggestions here - it helped me to decide to try another shop.
  7. I think in the morning I'm going to bring my laptop out to the car - plug into the OB2, place it on the passenger seat and record the fuel trim numbers while I drive (I have Amateur Durametric for the 5.2.2). Any other settings I should select? I think there is a limited number of modes I can record and store to an excel sheet at a time.
  8. He was looking at the O2's using Durametric (pro ver with a new update) and the real time numbers looked fine with car running. Fuel trim?? Affecting both banks? I've got no codes for injector issues, no codes such as 420/430 (Cat's). I currently have 1124/1126 in memory (Rich Threshold) So far... No CEL - yet. Although it's been under 50km's since a code clear.
  9. I have a 1999 - 996C2 'Tip' with 160K (kms) Two weeks ago the car's idle went south - really ranging all over and the CEL came on. Codes were P1317 (Misfire cly 5), P130, (Bank 1 before Cat O2 range), P150 (Band 2 before cat, O2 range), P1124, (Bank 1 O2 Sensing) and P126 (Band 2 O2 sensing) So my mechanic pulled the number 5 plug and noticed it was oiled up and that the coils were origanal to the car. The thoughts were that the coil in #5 went bad causing the misfire which generated the other codes. So... Six new plugs - six new coils installed. Codes cleared. Within 20kms driving away
  10. Bill: I have a 99 C2 'tip' that I am considering having the IMS replaced bearing replaced in a few weeks as a preventative measure. I have 125000km's on the car's and change the oil on or before 5K with 5/40 after recently changing from 0/40. Can you comment on the following: 1. 0/40 ver's 5/40 oil. (I was told by my mechanic that the 5/40 is better for our temp range in Canada for these engines) over the 0/40. 2. The 'theory' on the street is that tiptronic cars have fewer IMS issues because the over rev issue is eliminated - so therefore less potential damage? Some say the low percenta
  11. I did after market side skirts, front wing and GT 3 rear wing. Had them all painted at the same time by my painter. Front and side skirts were Razzi and the rear wing was from Asia. All fit pretty good. Prep is everything with painting so spend your money on a good painter. The rear wing harness is not bad option to buy as without the updated harness the third brake light won't work on top of the light for spoiler up/down is annoying - the light on the dash also does double duty as engine cover UNLATCHED. Always paint to sample - not paint codes. Take the old plastic cover off the wing and giv
  12. New belt needed. Tension is supplied by this unit - either tensioner has a defect or belt is the issue. This is not an issue to ignore. Loren could confirm but I think the belt is rated for 50K miles or five years?
  13. Hi Jimmy, they are your normal ebay LED tail lights that are the whole housing with internal LED wiring that you plug into the wiring loom. I think you use two of the old bulbs in the housing and all others hook up the LED's through a wired in base that you push into the empty plug outlets. I'm sure you've seen them around here or on ebay, (sorry no pic's of mine as I'm at work). Mine are clear signals until you hit the turn signal and the LED's light up a very bright yellow. The brake section is red - also very bright. I blew the marker light 7.5amp fuses joining the
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