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clueless1

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Everything posted by clueless1

  1. clueless1
    Right you are. Thanks for this.
  2. clueless1
    2001 986S was sitting for 6 months while I was travelling. I tried to start it and ran into trouble. The dash lights come on fine. I do not hear the starter at all. There is NO clicking as I would expect from a dead battery for example and no overt cranking sound. When trying to start instead of engine turning I hear an unusual low tone that seems to be coming from the right/passenger side front wheel area and feel a slight vibration when trying to turn the ignition. When I listen at back of car I hear nothing at all from starter area. I tried a brand new battery so that is ruled out as a cause Fwiw Immobilizer was prophylactically pleased in Tupperware a while (and if I remember correctly immobilizer issue presents as cranking but no start, unlike here where I have no crank. Any ideas / troubleshooting? Thanks.
  3. clueless1
    thanks. it turned out to be fuse A3 which is listed only as right side marker ... but is obviously responsible for the right rear tail lights as well.
  4. clueless1
    The passenger side rear tail lights in my 2001 S are out (all of them, including brake lights). Everything works fine on the drivers side (making me think it is not a fuse?). I figure this must be a short somewhere (any other ideas?), but have absolutely no idea where to start in terms of tracking this down/what to check with a multimeter/possible culprits. All advice appreciated.
  5. clueless1
    Hey, I have been thinking about installing the aftermarket Heizgerat Setz carbon fibre heated seat kits sold by heatedseatkits.com (among others) and have a couple of questions. First, can anybody confirm they fit? Second, I would like to use the OEM switch (and relay if, as I presume, this is required). I believe I cannot wire directly from the OEM switches (which are momentary contact) to the aftermarket relay or switch (which is continuous contact). Does anybody have the wiring for the aftermarket panels???? I've read Dennis Vogel's DIY obviously, but am also wondering about the wiring coming out the of the OEM seat harness/relay? As well as any other advice.... Has anybody done this?
  6. clueless1
    THANK YOU! This was the information I needed. it turns out the bolt was NOT aligned with the bolt grooves as they should have been. Worse, I spent hours trying to turn the bolt while clamping etc the eccentric, but could not get the bolt back into proper position. I finally gave up and hammered the thing through late today. On reinstallation ..... I could NOT fit the Hardrace arm back into the car frame's metal brackets ... it was very obviously too tight a fit without really whacking it (and whacking and ....) with a hammer to get it in. That end is very obviously wider in comparison with the OEM arm. My remaining questions would be where to get a boot/seal for the wheel carrier side of the toe arm????? Also, I was wondering why the ball joint on the Hardrace arm does not um move? Am I supposed to remove something? Indeed, there are no instructions with this arm, and I cannot find any on the net. For example, am I correct in assuming I should unscrew *both* sides equivalent lengths to attain the proper length (ie, the length of the OEM arm)?
  7. clueless1
    using a ballpeen hammer on the nut side while turning the bolt side ... has given me maybe 5-10 mm of progress. Not much to show for 4 days of labor. I've tried jacking the car to remove load with no difference noted. Any suggestions for a jacking point? Any other ideas/suggestions????? Am I really going to have to get this car towed to a mechanic to remove a bolt that is half out, turns freely, and has no nut on it????? Totally ridiculous......
  8. clueless1
    I cannot loosen the end on the wheel carrier because the ENTIRE BOLT SHEARED OFF (!!!, while going 3mph in a parking lot, thank goodness). It is dangling loose at the wheel carrier end right now. When I turn the bolt, the washer (that sets camber???) turns with the bolt. I do not have space to get anything on the washer to hold it while turning the bolt, and whatever I use keeps slipping regardless. Bolt turns almost effortlessly, but it is not coming out. The nut is completely off. Any ideas? I am stuck without wheels until I get this **** bolt out. Very very frustrating!
  9. clueless1
    I have the hardrace.com adjustable toe rod (this is what Che is selling) ... but have come across some installation questions. 1. What have folks used for a boot/seal on the hub end? 2. I cannot seem to remove the bolt on the suspension side of the OEM rear lower control arm this is meant to replace. The nut comes off fine, the bolt turns, but it is not coming out (even with tapping on the other side). I know this sounds like a really lame question, but right now I am completely stuck and have spent toooooo much time trying to figure this out with no success. Is there some trick I am missing??? Would appreciate any help I can get, because as I said, I'm in the midst of this replacement and without a way to get the bolt out am somewhat stranded at present. Thanks. Its not my photo, but I believe this to be the nut side of the bolt I am referring to. Its not my photo, but I believe this to be the nut side of the bolt I am referring to.
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