AndrewM

Guys Ive fabricated my own unit and sprayed it matt black. Looks very well. Am going to alter the cage though to make it more flush to the dash (the head unit protrudes a little at the moment). It may need some slight widening to allow for opening and closing. The 'static' fit is very good. Colour match is actually very good. Will post pics when complete.

Will post them for you in the near future once completed. I spent a few hours yesterday fine crafting one from laminate. Not a bad job if I say so myself and a perfect fit. However - not as perfectly edged as your own piece, texture does not match the rest of the console and Ive yet to spray it. So colour may need some work. Thanks for your kind offer. Will forward it to you in the next few days though the Christmas post may well mean its the New Year before it arrives. Ive also posted some links to this thread on a UK 911 site so hopefully you may get some extra business. It might be an idea to put the measurements of the aperture on the advertisement so those using head units other than the tried and tested ones can check for fit. Thanks again Andrew

I think on balance that's probably right. Just too specialist an adaptation. With great reluctance Treu I fear Ill have to return. Heartily endorse the quality of the product though.

Hi Andrew, I am assuming you had purchased one of our powder coated aluminum bezels. Just out of curiosity what brand and model head unit did you purchase, as we have rarely ever come across this issue it would be helpful to know. As for cutting the bezel, that will be a huge bear even for us to have it custom cut. You may be better off using the MDF material to fabricate a bezel to the specs of your head unit in this instance. You can just use the aluminum bezel as a template for the outer dimension to make life a bit easier. If you go the MDF route, just email, call or PM us should you want to return the bezel you had purchased. We have a 30 day return policy for unused components, so that you're not stuck with an item you can't use. Happy holidays! -Trieullionaire Hi, and happy holidays to you too. Yes its a powder coated aluminium bezel. As a product however it is great and Id love it to fit. The head unit is a generic double din unit from China chosen for the matching orange lights and absence of brand markings (its very good I have to say). The bezel is almost perfect width-wise although very slightly too small. A little sanding of the lower, invisible, edge of the head unit should sort that out without having to touch the side of the aperture of the bezel. The vertical gap however is roughly 5mm (1/5 inch) too small. The finish of your bezel is excellent and Im keen to use it if the piece can be cut down a little on the lower edge. I have thought about drilling the lower corners and jigsawing the bezel with an aluminium cutting blade. The aluminium of the bezel is 4mm thick. Is this method realistic in your view? (or anyone else's view for that matter). Im fairly handy. If it is I would give it a go - although the consequences are obvious if it goes wrong. Depending on the answers I might have to (very reluctantly) take you up on your return offer and fabricate one myself. Andrew

Hi, I bought the bezel for my car (Id already installed the unit when I saw this thread). The bezel looks great but my head unit's face is larger than the aperture in the bezel. Have you any tips for cutting it? Thanks Andrew

:D In fairness to my local dealership (In Northern Ireland) they were very helpful. Got the part for £24 and the guy selling it gave me advice on bleeding. Swapped the pipe around and topped up the system only for the hose to pop off and run more coolant out! Couldnt get the circlip to engage properly and 'click' onto the hose. Called the dealers and they checked out new clips for me. The guy spotted the problem on the computer when he was pricing a new clip. It turns out that the two circlips (one each end) look identical but arent. One is slightly finer than the other. I had taken both off and put the clips back on the wrong ends. The tiniest difference in width was enough to prevent the clip engaging with the hose end. Once swapped, they clicked neatly into place and refilled the system. All very simple and easy. Have bled it a couple of times in line with the advice I was given which was:- 1. park the car nose down on a slope (you could also jack the rear up). 2. Top up the header tank to max and replace the cap. 3. Open the ring pull bleed valve. 4. Start the car and run it to normal temperature with the bleed valve open. 5. Let the car sit for a few hours to cool right down. 6. Top up level. 7. Repeat. 8. Final piece of the process was to drive about 30 -40 minutes with the bleed valve open. Let it cool, top up and close the bleed valve. I was advised to check that when warm the coolant pipes behind the front bumper in wheel arch were warm (they were). Told to keep an eye on the coolant level for a couple of weeks and top up when cold as required. So far so good!

Hi guys, I have had the exact same hose go in the exact same manner as the original poster here. The replacement will be here tomorrow and I intend to fit it mysefl after taking out the airbox. have read the original posters guidance and its very helpful. Are there any likely pitfalls? The obvious one is a large amount of coolant loss in the process. Will it just pour out in the process? happily the car is nose forward on a steepish slope so the system wont drain entirely. Anyone who has changed this or similar hoses have any tips? Thanks in advance