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harmonyroadporsche
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When I pulled the engine I forgot to mark the two main 996 engine connectors in the engine compartment. It looks like both are unique but I'm paranoid and would like to make sure. Is it possible to reverse the connectors and if so how do you tell which is which?
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Thanks for your response. I appreciate the feedback!
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I have a 2002 996 with 6 speed manual transmission that has a coolant system problem. The system has a slow leak when placed under vacuum at 25 psi but appears to hold pressure at when put under positive pressure at 13 psi. The coolant reservoir was replaced to eliminate a likely source of leaking coolant but this didn't solve the problem. The car does not leak coolant when it sits cold but does leak coolant on the drivers side of the engine bay when at operating temp. I put flurescent dye in the coolant and after being driven it looks like the source of the leak is in the vicinity of the AOS at the back left of the engine compartment. Is the AOS a potential source of leaking coolant and am I correct in replacing it as my next step? The car puts out a large cloud of white smoke at startup after sitting which I think also indicates that the AOS may be failing. Any advice would be appreciated.
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I had previously read Wayne's IMS article. It looks like he's updated it in the last few days as it now says the tensioners should be removed completely versus loosened. So the loosening should be: 1-3 camshaft tensioner 4-6 camshaft tensioner (optional on 5 chain engines - 2002 or earlier) Main IMS tensioner Tightening the above tensioners in reverse order to 59 ft-lb (80 Nm) after the bearing and bearing cover are back in place. Tighten the bearing cover bolts down to 8 ft-lbs (11 Nm). And then torque down the 12 point nut to 24 ft-lbs (32.5 Nm). Button the whole thing up, check timing to ensure no valve on piston contact and then drive with confidence. Thanks for your help!
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I will be upgrading to the non-sealed bearing using the LN kit. Since the LN kit comes with the two fly wheel locks I'll go with that method and I'll remove all three tensioners to be safe. It would be nice if I could lock the IMS sprocket with the set screws as well but that may not be possible at TDC. Do you remove the tensioners in a particular order starting the with the Main and following with 1-3 and 4-6? Do you know what the tightening torque is when reinstalling the tensioners?
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When doing the IMS replacement procedure is it OK to completely remove the Main and 1-3 tensioners? I've read that you should just loosen them but I've also heard that you should remove them. Also, is loosening or removing the 4-6 tensioner necessary? Since the engine is coming out and the AC compressor will be out of the way it is easy to access it however if it isn't necessary to remove it I'd rather leave it alone. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me. Thanks! J
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For those interested in the location of the Rain Sensor Control Unit this image should help.
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Thanks Loren. I will attempt to swap out the Control Unit and see if that helps. Do you know where the control unit is located?
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It is a Canadian car and should have daytime running lights, assuming that's what you mean by DRL.
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Thank you very much for the wiring diagram! Where does the headlight switch fit into the circuit? Seeing this might help me narrow down the source of the issue. The control unit is the less expensive component to replace so I'm hoping that is the culprit.
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Hi Loren. Thanks for the response. Yes, I believe it has the rain sensor option.
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I swapped in a new ignition switch this weekend but there was no effect on the problem. Since that was the most likely cause I'm somewhat stumped. Any thoughts on what I can try next?
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I have a 2002 996 and the windshield wipers only work if the headlights are on. Some of the posts I've read indicate that the ignition switch may be the cause. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Are there relays, fuses or other thing I can check fist before opening up the dash and replacing the ignition switch?
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That definitely looks like tool damage. When I had my targa top recovered the guy who was putting it on used a plastic pry tool to seat the back edge and fractured the black paint on the targa bar. It is surprisingly easy to cause this type of damage. If you regularly service your carat the dealer they should take care of you. When I had my RX8 (the winter beater) in for service last year one of the techs gave it a door ding. I had a word with the service advisor and the dealership repainted the entire door for free, You deserve no less. Good luck!
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I've run into exactly the same problem. If you could post the procedure for replacing the solenoid that would be fantastic!
