mhall1019

Thanks, Loren, good thought. I'll try another battery to hopefully get things going and take the battery in to have it load tested and get a full charge cycle. Will report back. Extraneous details: My standby is a yellow-top Optima that I've been using as the power source for my backup sump pump system for four years. Its always on trickle charge and only drawn on 6 or 8 times a year when the float on the main pump gets stuck. When I needed it recently it provided intermittent service for about four days, until I got a complete new system with a huge conventional lead/acid battery. Background: The car battery doesn't have a good history of maintenance. It was manufactured in 05/2010 and sat on the shelf for about six months. Its been out of service a couple of times for six month periods and not maintained properly when it was not being used. After one of those periods, I drove with it for a couple of days, but then it was dead one morning. I took it back to the store and it was dead but would take a charge and passed the load test. They put it through an overnight charge cycle on their "machine". I've been using it as a dd for the last four months with no problems.

'02 911 turbo: I had left the windows down an inch or so when I got to work. When I got ready to leave, I unlocked the doors with the fob, started the car and tried to raise the windows. Nothing happened. When I got home, I checked the fuse (D1, 30amp). It was not blown. Then I checked around and found the sunroof and interior lights weren't working either. The fob wouldn't lock/unlock the doors. When I press the button once, nothing, the second time, horn beeps. Dis- and re-connected the battery. Car starts and runs fine. Can't check codes with Durametric because it doesn't work on my car most of the time. Durametric has replaced the cable but it only communicates occasionally (1 out of 15 tries) and then quits after a few minutes, but that's a whole nother topic. My own wag is that the battery in my fob is just about dead (10 yrs old). Other sites have suggested bad ign. switch or box under seat got wet. If anyone has ever experienced this and its repair please let me know. My internet connection is so slow that I'm very inefficient at doing onlne searching. Thanks, Mike

Thanks Loren, I am half-relieved. I looked in Section 96 62 55 and it says that the programming requires that the key be stuck in the ignition switch. Does this mean that the key needs to be cut first, installed into the transponder and then all the keys be programmed in one "session" with the PIWIS tool? ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I just called the dealer back, and he said that the programming process requires a cut key in the fob in the ignition for it to be programmed. This dealer didn't spend the money for the machine to be able to cut a key from the VIN number and he couldn't put an uncut key into the ignition. So, I guess that means I need to find an Audi/VW dealer that can actually cut the key by physically copying the original key, or find a dealer that can cut the key from the VIN Number and then reprogram them both in the ignition.

'02 911 Turbo This is quite an old post but when I did a search on getting a key cut/fob programmed I didn't find any newer one. I bought the key/transponder package from Sunset about a year ago and had to bring it to a dealer last week. I gave the service manager the package and he called me back a few hours later wondering what the key blank was for. He said that he had nothing to cut keys with. He knew what to do to program the transponder for $95, but not the key. He's a new dealer - took over an existing franchise about a year ago. Should he have a key cutter? Does anyone know what it looks like so I can tell him? It just occurred to me that this may be in the Workshop Manual so I'll take a look there, but, in the meantime if someone (Loren?) just happens to have the info please let me know. Thanks, Mike

The parts manual shows no difference between X50 and tt muffler: 996 111 987 74. The USA GT2 muffler is a different part number: 996 111 987 76, and the unsubstantiated info on it is that it has one less baffle than the X50/tt muffler. There is one listed on ebay for sale at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360349436077&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_2454wt_1165. Mike

Maurice: I could not locate any of the emails we had exchanged, so am replying here. You may remember that I did figure out how to wire the starter properly and then had problems with the key not operating the starter. Durametric said that the clutch switch was closed but immobilizer and start lock were open. So, as my final effort I bought an ignition switch - the whole thing - and was going to change it. As I started to remover the air duct to get access under the dash, a switch fell out attached with two wires. I had tucked it up there when working on the clutch spring and new clutch master. It was the "other" clutch pedal switch. The one that locks out the starter. When the switch was closed, the car started right up. No need to reprogram keys or any such thing. After such a painful effort at troubleshooting, the ability to start the car seems secondary; the real success is in no longer having to work on solving the problem. I still don't understand why durametric reported the switch closed. I will have to see if the logic level is reversed now. What a relief. Thanks, Mike Mike: A friend of mine came over today and we had the throttle body off his 2001 Boxster. That left the starter exposed, so I took a nice clear shot of the terminals and connections (click on the photo to blow it up): That should give you a good guide to the connections on the back of your starter. Regards, Maurice.

Is there a large difference between what data the Durametric will display compared to the factory testers? I have used the Durametric and I didn't see a lot of things I would like to be able to see, like the ignition key position so I can troubleshoot the ignition switch without getting under the dash with a meter. I asked Durametric and they indicated that they display all the info that is available from the ECU, so I assume all the inputs and outputs, but I don't see them in the table of actual values I can select to log. This is what they said: "Thank you for contacting Durametric. The Durametric tool attempts to provide much of the same capabilities as the factory tool. It does not attempt to go beyond those capabilities. If fault codes are stored for the issues you mention, the tool will be able to read those values from the associated control unit (engine or alarm). If the car is not designed to detect those conditions, neither the Durametric nor the factory tool will be able to relay information on those issues. This is the same for the ignition switch. Durametric will only capture information that the car is designed to provide. I am not aware that the key position information is available in the factory tool and, therefore, neither is it included in the Durametric tool." But, I would think the key position is an input to the ECU because it has to send the enable to the start lock relay. Am I looking in the wrong place on the Durametric or does it not really display a lot of the information available on the factory testers. Thanks, Mike

Greg: I did the ringing up part to Porsche but they would not discuss it, other than saying they would have to have the car to diagnose the problem. I took this to mean they wanted the car so that I would have to give them lots of money to get it back. But, let me understand what you said the sequence was. The original key was deactivated due to some electronic malfunction inside the push button part? [i'm not sure what the deactivation they next performed is.] Then they cut you a new key and activated a new remote for about $300. They then provided you with this newly-cut reprogrammed key that did allow the car to start? Then you drove down to the dealer and had your original key reactivated. The summary is that you were able to obtain a working key without having to have the car towed to the dealer? If that is true, it is very encouraging. We are lucky enough here to have a dealer (Sunset Porsche) that provides genuine parts at a very good price. I purchased a new remote and metal key blank for about $100. As helpful as they are, they did not seem to think that they could activate the key from 3000 miles away. Thanks for your help. Mike

I think the key is a good conclusion and hope that's it. But,... From what I've read here and on other forums there may be a couple of kinds of deactivation. There's the one that occurs if you don't drive the car for 5 days. Then the manual says you lock the driver's door with the key and then put it into the ignition switch and turn to "on" within 10 seconds and its reactivated. I've tried that and it didn't work. So, there may be some other kind of defect in the key electronics, the immobilizer itself, or the ignition switch, but I can't see how the ignition switch would turn the immobilizer off. Did you have to take the car to the dealer so they could plug into your OBDII connector? I hate the thought of towing the car to the dealer because I have a whole bunch of maintenance items I need to do (refilling and bleeding the cooling system, GT2 clutch hydraulics just installed, and the steering system) that I don't want to pay them to do. So, I would have to have it towed back home. An hour each way. Thanks for your input. Mike

Loren: Thanks again for your help. I'm trying to avoid a tow to the dealer, the only one with testers in the area. Is there a bunch of logic involved in allowing the immobilizer to output a closed output? Or is it just a matter of the code in the key matching the code in the immobilizer. If so, since I need to get a spare key, so I could get a new key programmed with the code for the immobilizer. Or is there a lot more involved? Thanks, Mike

'02 Turbo - The starter doesn't run with key switched to "start". Durametric says that the clutch switch is closed and immobilizer is open and starter switch is open. So, the immobilizer won't let the car start. But I don't understand why the immobilizer is immobilizing. The remote will lock/unlock doors, the fuel pump activates when the ignition is switched on. The battery is in good condition. The only error code is P0238 - "A" Boost Pressure High, which is obviously not valid - must be a connector or transmitter problem. I can't imagine that boost pressure is involved in immobilizer logic. Is there any way to determine why the immobilzer is set and how to troubleshoot it? Thanks, Mike

Loren: The starter diagram is a major part of the confusion. I understand the relay function - the "permissive"/control signal comes into terminal 50 from the starter relay and energizes the coil, closing the switch connecting 12V to the starter motor. At first, I didn't recognize the symbol for motor, but now I see that it is like the air pump motor next door, but turned 90 deg., with the "M" washed out. That other thing next to the motor must be the solenoid? I guess that there is an understood terminal, unmarked on the starter and the diagram, at the downstream (or upstream if you're an electron) switch contact. The short run from there to the motor on the diagram represents the external wire running from the unmarked terminal into the starter motor housing. So, the B+ lines - one from the battery and the other to the alternator, do connect to the other 8mm stud that is unmarked, but known to a select group as terminal 30. I made the mistake of removing the nut from the unnamed terminal when removing the starter, so when I went to put it back in, there were two unmarked 8mm studs with loose nuts on them. Now I understand that the thin nut just gets screwed back on to hold the wire going into the starter housing, and the longer stud has the two B+ wires connected to it. Would you happen to have a good detailed picture of the heater hoses by the left rear axle showing whether they go above or below the parking brake cable? Thanks, Mike

Loren: I've got confusion related to the connections at the starter. As you know, there are two M8 posts. One of these posts has the lead going to the starter motor. The two other wires with 8mm lugs - do they both attach to the other 8mm post? Thanks, Mike

'02 Turbo - Please, anyone with pics or description of electrical connections at starter and routing of heater hoses above or below handbrake cable near left rear axle please post. Neither the parts or repair manual show either very clearly. Thanks, Mike

Would someone mind sending a picture or looking and letting me know if the heater hoses are supposed to go over or under the parking brake cable by the left rear axle. Also, where does the plastic holder with two ciips for heater hoses and 3 for smaller tubes/hoses attaches to the body? This is part number 996.106.455.71 that attaches with 900.378.113.09 (AM 6x45bolt) to what? Thanks for any info available. Mike

Mike: I just went through this on another car. From some of the symptoms you describe, you may also be having an issue with the ignition switch. You can test that with a 12V light to see if it lights up when you turn the ignition switch to "start". If your drive gear is not extending, there is probably corrosion (from sitting around for 5 months) that is preventing the electromagnet from being energized and activating the gear. You could take the solenoid apart and clean off any corrosion and apply grease very sparingly in the correct spots by looking up an exploded diagram of a solenoid on the net. The easiest way to test a starter these days is to take it to any Autozone or Pep Boys, where they will test it for free. They have a nifty setup in this machine that even the guys at these chain stores can't mess up. You can even get a printout showing you what the three critical values are, including the extension of the drive gear. Best of all, it's free. I tried to test my starter in my garage and it was "working" and the drive gear was extending, but it was not consistent. The testers at the chain stores confirmed that I needed a new starter. Regards, Maurice. Maurice - Thanks for the wisdom and advice. I'll take the starter to have it properly tested. I have wiring diagrams and I'm glad to see they've gotten away from current flow diagrams, but, for some reason, I don't find them very readable (there are just too many wires, no colored lines, and mystical off-page connections). I would like to draw out the starter circuit to see if I can figure out the things I don't understand: Why is the primary 12V always there? Shouldn't it be switched? Why is there 12V on the little wires all the time? Shouldn't they only be energized when the key is in the start position? Is the big wire that goes to the back of the car going to / coming from Relay Panel 2 and what does it have to do with anything? But, I'll begin with getting the starter checked, and then do due diligence on the wiring diagrams. Thanks, Mike

'02 turbo - I'm putting it back together after clutch and clutch slave replacement. The starter's been out of the car for 4 or 5 months. There are two issues - drive gear doesn't move into engagement position and the starter doesn't operate when the ignition key is in the "start" position. I tested it in place by mistake by putting 12V on the lower 8mm lug on the starter with the big wire from the front of the car and the big wire from the rear of the car on that lug (the motor spun every time I connected the battery cables). The starter motor works and it does spin, but the drive gear doesn't seem to move into the engagement position. I'm assuming that when the solenoid is engaged, the start motor spins and the drive gear is supposed to extend. When I wire the starter up the way I think its supposed to be, nothing happens when the key is turned to start position. I've got the big wire from the front on the lower 8mm lug on the starter, the big wire from the rear of the car on the upper 8mm lug and the small wire on the 6mm lug. With the key off, I've got 14V on both the big wire and the small wire from the front of the car. Logically, it seems like there shouldn't be power at the small lug unless the key is in the start position. Nothing changes when I turn the key on - that is, 14V is not applied to the wire on the upper lug. I removed the starter from the trans and have it wired up with one of the mounting holes wired to the chassis for ground so I can check voltages. What are my next troubleshooting steps? Thanks for any ideas. Mike

My GT2 slave cylinder dumped about 1 liter of brake fluid (not Pentosin power steering fluid) into the bell housing. I know I need to pull the slave and check it out, but is there any chance that the clutch disk is still useable? Is it likely that the TO bearing has been cleansed of its lube? I'm assuming that with 70+k miles, the clutch may need to be replaced anyway, but I'd prefer to do it on my schedule. Has anyone had a slave go bad and been able to continue to use the clutch? Is there a good DIY anywhere for pulling tranny without removing engine - the forums don't seem to have specifics for the 996tt. Thanks, Mike

I bought a 2002 tt advertised as having the X50 package and, based on Scouser's decoder that said it had 450 hp. It ends up that it did not have the package and I got screwed out of either 30hp or $5-10k (my estimate of the value of the X50 package in a used car) whichever way you want to look at it. If in doubt Loren has a source for decoding the VIN properly.

I bought these solid mounts when I was upfixin' a 993 a couple of years ago and now that I've sold the car I want to sell the parts, but can't remember where they went on the car. Anybody recognize them? Thanks, Mike

Well, it's confirmed. I can't follow simple directions. When the belt is routed per the factory drawing, it fits. It's also confirmed: there's more than one way to run the belt and have it seem to be on right except for a very loud squealing noise. Thanks to everyone who said to read the directions. Mike

That has been my experience with Conti belts too. I will recheck the belt routing, but, is it really possible to have everything - power steering, alternator, A/C, water pump, whatever else - spinning in the right direction and have about the right amount of slack in the belt if it is routed incorrectly? Thanks, Mike

Loren: Thanks. The belt when cold is already stretched to the point where the tensioner is as far as it can go counterclockwise. It only squeals just after its started up. It makes me think that one of the driven devices (water pump?) seized up while it was sitting for 5 months and has some residual friction until it gets spinning. I hate to experiment with a $100 belt. I wouldn't hesitate to spend the money on the genuine belt for the next 60k miles, but if it stretches after 3 engine starts, it will get expensive fast. Thanks, Mike think its most likely the 'cheap' belt but double check you have the belt routed around pulleys correctly as it will fit in 2 or three ways but only works correctly in one! I have ordered a genuine belt and will install it after I've checked all the pulleys out. But, I have lots of confidence in Continental belts - its all that I used in many Porsche engine rebuilds (up to 3.2Ls) and in servicing 964s and 993s and always thought that they were the OEM supplier. I am really trying to get to the root cause of the problem of why a good quality belt would stretch in 1 hour of operation. One reason may be, as has been stated, that it a cheap belt (or just a defective one) and putting a factory belt on will fix that. However, if there is something on the engine that would have initially caused the belt to stretch and now has a high resistance to start spinning when its cold, it will just stretch an expensive belt and keep on squealing. Are there really multiple ways to route the belt that will still make everything turn in the correct direction and end up with the tensioner pulley in range? Thanks, Mike

Loren: Thanks. The belt when cold is already stretched to the point where the tensioner is as far as it can go counterclockwise. It only squeals just after its started up. It makes me think that one of the driven devices (water pump?) seized up while it was sitting for 5 months and has some residual friction until it gets spinning. I hate to experiment with a $100 belt. I wouldn't hesitate to spend the money on the genuine belt for the next 60k miles, but if it stretches after 3 engine starts, it will get expensive fast. Thanks, Mike

'02 turbo 70k miles - I replaced serpentine belt as part of 60k service. Old belt had evidence of 70k mileage but was causing no problems. Replaced with correct ContiTech (not Genuine) belt and 5 months later when finally got car back together, within 2-3 engine starts, the belt tensioner was at its limit and the belt was slipping and squealing. It does this for 30-60 seconds after starting and then stops. I took the belt off again after about two weeks - 300 miles - and, other than the fact that the belt is apparently stretched, it looks perfect. The idler and tensioner pulleys all turn smoothly. My next step would be to put a new aftermarket belt on to see if it happens again - its easy enough to do and they are cheap and I think good quality. Unless someone has an idea of what would make a belt stretch so quickly? Thanks, Mike