c70Pete

is the 300v 5W-40 appropriate for tracking and lapping days? why would not the M1 5W50 be a better choice for tracking since it has a higher viscosity?

why do you mix?... is it ok to mix?

The side skirts differ for Aerokit Cup - MY99-01 and Aerokit II - MY02-04 AND Coupes and Cabs are slightly different. So one size does not fit all. Some what model and what year car do you have? I thought I saw Aerokit II skirts on a 99 before... I believe they fit and they look more aggressive than the original skirts intended for the MY99-01 carreras... the only thing you will need to install to complete the look is a lip on the bottom of the front bumper...

hold the show here guys... 1128/1130 I got these errors when my oil filler cap was not on tight! it was sucking excess air into the crankcase and these errors developed..... it could be easy as that! check to make sure your oil cap is on tight...

okay thx... I think you can try suncoast porsche for a gt3 motor... but I don't know what the conversion costs are... it would be worth it cause those engines are practically bulletproof...

yup if your tracking its a whole different ballgame... service intervals become much shorter... and parts just don't last as long... I don't think Porsche ever designed the 996 to be heavily tracked... for that they recommend you go and buy a GT3... and even that has a lifespan...

really? is that why you've been kicked off every internet forum? this is the 996 forum... do you see people taking about turbo's anywhere? B)

996 transmission issues are not rare... especially @ 60K miles and beyond... pinion bearings.. whiring/whining; gears popping out and crunchy shifts... lots of cars suffer from these symptoms... I believe 996 use brass synchros and there are a lot of shops out there who replace tranny fluid with synthetic thinking it is a superior fluid... fact of the matter is that brass and synthetic don't mix... you cause damage... there is a great video I found that illustrates the failures of 996 transmissions and what typically fails... the synchros are just one part... there are spider gears that fail and of course the bearings.... If 996 tranny issues are not rare and I rarely hear about them posted on 911 forums, then given the frequency of engine failures we ALL read online, the whole M9X engine program has got to be an absolute engineering joke! You need to listen more carefully then cause this year I know of four 996 needing new tranny's up here in Toronto... and about 3 others I know who track their car have already replaced/repaired their transmission... and they are not on the forums... and yes the M9X engine program is a joke.... blown engines are probably more common than 996 tranny issues...

whatever the dealer gives you is good for your car... it has the proper friction modifiers that the transmission requires... I believe the gear oil for 996 C2 is non-synthetic...

I used the stock one from the dealer as specified for our cars... if your tracking your car just change it every year... if not then every 2-3 years should be fine (still well before what porsche recommends but its a lot cheaper than a new tranny!!) in the end these transmissions are prone to failure because of their cheap internal parts that are self-lubricating bearings that fail over time especially when tracked and used hard...

How many track miles do you have on your car...? umm... I big to differ here... if you are buying a used 996 get a warranty that will cover full engine and transmission replacement... and your absolutely right about the fraudulent companies out there... they say they will cover you but in the end will not... does anybody know how much a good warranty for a used 996 costs?

what components from Tarret are you referring to?

996 transmission issues are not rare... especially @ 60K miles and beyond... pinion bearings.. whiring/whining; gears popping out and crunchy shifts... lots of cars suffer from these symptoms... I believe 996 use brass synchros and there are a lot of shops out there who replace tranny fluid with synthetic thinking it is a superior fluid... fact of the matter is that brass and synthetic don't mix... you cause damage... there is a great video I found that illustrates the failures of 996 transmissions and what typically fails... the synchros are just one part... there are spider gears that fail and of course the bearings....

your dealer should be able to look up the type of bearing (single or double) based on your engine number

make sure your oil cap is screwed on tight and proper! a loose oil cap introduced air into the system and can trigger those errors....

I currently have 255/40/17 tires on my 17" rims... and am thinking of getting track tires like Michelin Pilot Cup Sport... unfortunately they don't come in 255 or 265 width like the PS2 but they only come in 275 width... below is revs per mile from the 255 tire... and also for the 275 series tire... does anybody think there will be a problem ... I'm using the standard 9" rims which tire rack website says will work with 275 width my front tires are 225/45/17 its going on a 99 C2 with ROW 030 suspension PS2 tires 255/40ZR17 REVS per MILE 831 265/40ZR17 REVS per MILE 822 Michelin Pilot Cup Sport tires.. 275/40ZR17 REVS per MILE 810

1. depends on how it was serviced. 2. paint? accidents? suspension still good? 3. even 02 engines fail 4. also plug into the ECU and get the # of engine running hours.... the average speed over the life of the car is approx 30 mph... so your engine hours on a car with 35,000 mile should not be more than 1166 hrs... if its significantly more than that you know somebody has ROLLED BACK the mileage... on a 99 with low mileage like that this would be my main concern.. LEAKDOWN DEFINITELY !!! and if you are super paranoid you can do a BOROSCOPE analysis (2 hour charge) to have the tech look inside each cylinder and check for liner cracks... ... also drop the oil pan and see if there is any metallic debri in the pan.... if there is... forget it... personally I would go the extra mile to do it... but leakdown and engine hours first before other tests... Paint excellent. NO ACCIDENTS. really an exceptionally great looking car in and out. Suspension- good I guess. test ride was good, but haven't seen it on a lift as of yet. MK1 or MK2- How do I know which is which? MK2 has rounder headlights and 3.6 motor... also has different rear bumper and color keyed rear bumper extensions where as 99-01 are black

1. depends on how it was serviced. 2. paint? accidents? suspension still good? 3. even 02 engines fail 4. also plug into the ECU and get the # of engine running hours.... the average speed over the life of the car is approx 30 mph... so your engine hours on a car with 35,000 mile should not be more than 1166 hrs... if its significantly more than that you know somebody has ROLLED BACK the mileage... on a 99 with low mileage like that this would be my main concern.. LEAKDOWN DEFINITELY !!! and if you are super paranoid you can do a BOROSCOPE analysis (2 hour charge) to have the tech look inside each cylinder and check for liner cracks... ... also drop the oil pan and see if there is any metallic debri in the pan.... if there is... forget it... personally I would go the extra mile to do it... but leakdown and engine hours first before other tests...

do you track it?

except for the reman engine right? did it fail via IMS...?

probably a quart every oil change (5K miles) - i tend to keep the revs high so to be quite clear... once warmed up shift at 4-4.5K usually... i don't hesitate to redline in appropriate circumstances. :) my PSE gets heard, but within street legal limits of course. :) so from a timeline perspective... a quart every 6 months. minimal annoyance level here. that's not bad.... keep an eye on it and see if it gets worst over the next year... do you track it? if so how frequently...?

to stay on topic here and not revert to the usual hobby racer banter so popular with the track hobbyists... -3.6 > 3.4 -my cars past and present did burn oil -they all ran fine and put out good power relative to others well within manufacturer guidelines -an engine that burns oil is normal and owners who do have engines that require topping off should NOT be alarmed as your post implies (typical internet crying wolf, alarmist style) -recommending that others run 15w on the m96 is absolutely bad advice esp since the person recommending it certainly isn't going to put money where his mouth is the OP's engine sounds like it's burning oil excessively and the answer to his problem is not to run BMW oil or 15w. curious how much oil does your reman burn?

Seems to me, the cheapest way to attempt to reduce or eliminate your burning is to fill the crankcase with Mobil Extended Performance 15W50 and drive the car hard. I would also recommend (whether you change the oil or not) to bring the car up to redline and let the engine brake it back down to. Repeat this a few times and do it periodically to keep cylinder walls clean and smooth. This can drastically reduce oil burning when oil is getting past the rings. well what about breaking in a new new re-man engine.... they fill it with 0W40..... take it to red line on the first day? I've heard for performance its good and also seats the rings properly... 1999Porsche911... what do you think about this technique? I would remove the 0W40 and put in 15W50. I would then warm it up and test the rev limiter several time to make sure it worked properly. Engine breaking is as good, if not better for seating rings. can I use mobil 1 5W50 instead? or is there a distinct advantage in going with 15W50 when breaking in a new motor?

Seems to me, the cheapest way to attempt to reduce or eliminate your burning is to fill the crankcase with Mobil Extended Performance 15W50 and drive the car hard. I would also recommend (whether you change the oil or not) to bring the car up to redline and let the engine brake it back down to. Repeat this a few times and do it periodically to keep cylinder walls clean and smooth. This can drastically reduce oil burning when oil is getting past the rings. well what about breaking in a new new re-man engine.... they fill it with 0W40..... take it to red line on the first day? I've heard for performance its good and also seats the rings properly... 1999Porsche911... what do you think about this technique?

there seems to be this popular notion, a follow the leader mentality that an engine that does not burn oil is somehow better than an engine that does when in fact the only downside with the latter is the annoyance factor in topping off oil however frequently you need to do it. more greater the frequency the more annoying it gets. so long as it's within porsche's allowance, i wouldn't be afraid of the engine... with that said.... porsche's allowance requires a lot of annoying time spent topping off plus expense. my S54 M3 engine burned oil. it dynoed higher than any stock S54 at the dyno day here back several years ago. my f20c honda engine burned oil. same dyno results relative to others. i followed the break-in guidelines to a tee. so me making the claim that an engine that does burn moderate amounts of oil means greater relative power output... it's just as absurd of a claim/notion that it's somehow better, more desireable to have an engine that does burn oil. good luck with your "issue". not many porsches that i've read about burn as much oil as yours. it seems excessive. but again the answer is not running oil weights/brands not on porsche's recommended list. your engines made more HP because they were loose... oval cylinders... worn rings... so less friction... hence more HP... you know what they say.... they run the strongest just before they blow!! just like a higher mileage engine performing better... once its broken in its a lot faster... its looser... but oil burning @ 1 quart per 600 miles means something else is wrong... all the engines have run perfectly since i still know the owners i sold the car to and my m96 has likely had less issues than yours IIRC. let's be real here and not cry wolf. so I guess you and your owners constitute a statistically representative sample...? :clapping: and I never had any issues with my car... it was a heavily tracked C2 that just had bearing failure one day due to the bad design of the 3.4 and oil starvation... and yes it was burning oil... lots of it... but boy was it fast... it was faster than a 3.6 on the Andretti straitaway @ mosport... and at the track that day it burned a full 2 litres in 2 hours... cry wolf... ? where have you been? this is a well documented problem in these engines... even @ Sebring lots of the 3.4 (including the new cayman s) pop their motors due to oil starvation... X-51 oil pan fixes that or definitely prolongs it (I know this for a fact from guys who track down there) and even the 3.6 are affected @ Sebring... with similar symptoms... you want to burn oil... ok say 1 quart every 6-7000 miles would be acceptable... if your tracking hard... running the engine hot etc... but every six hundred miles... yah right ... looks like Porsche don't want to solve their problem... lets see how the current crop of DFI 3.6 and 3.8 motors do with oil burning... so far from what I"m hearing they are ALL oil burners... lets see how long they last... smoke crack?