Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Rings at 100,000 miles? The car looks to be well maintained, 1989 911 3.2 anniversary edition. So a quart every 1000 miles isn't a big deal. The car drove nice, very tight steering but I was surprised it felt a little slow compared to my 2000 Boxster S but I should expect that from a 22 year old car.
I searched and found this thread: http://www.fixya.com/cars/t595768-rattle_vibration_noises_possibly They talk about what you mention here and one post describes exactly what happens with the car I'm looking at. Says the idler gear makes noise through the bell housing and the torque tube and is amplified by the absence of the rubber center on the clutch if a spring centered clutch is used. I think I'm going to get this car after having it looked over by a mechanic. Aside from this noise, the car looks to be in great shape.
Went to look at a 1987 944S and the car was in excellent condition. Factory LSD, partial black leather, Guards Red, 964 Carrera wheels on the car and original phone dial wheels come with the car. Very clean, paint was nice and interior was well taken care of. The owner said the original engine was blown and replaced with a rebuilt unit with Nikasil coated cylinders and said the motor came from Roger Penske's racing team (?). Engine is basically new, rebuilt to factory specs. When I started the engine and was idling, I noticed a high pitched "whirring" sound which originally I thought was a bad fuel pump but after I depressed the clutch the sound went away. Releasing the clutch the sound came back. Same thing after we went for a 15 minute drive, clutch out the sound is there and clutch in the sound disappears. He said the clutch is new and replaced with a spring centered Sachs unit. I'm tempted to get this car but the sound worries me. I noticed a similar sound on another 944 I drove earlier that day but didn't make the connection with the clutch on that one. Another thing is I was expecting alittle more oomph from this engine. Coming from a 986S, the 944S felt gutless. The power came on a little more after getting above 4500 rpm though. Is this normal for 944Ss? I know they only make about 189hp but maybe I was just spoiled by the more modern M96 engine. Pretty much everything works on the car and the body is in great shape with no rust at all. 85000 miles or so on the car. This will be my first 944, but owned a 928, three 914s and just recently a 2000 Boxster S which got totaled. How are the maintenance costs on 944s? I read that it can be pretty high, and I plan on using this as a daily driver. For under $8k, I think it is a good deal but that sound is really bugging me. I didn't have anything to record the sound with at the time.
My current car just got wrecked and am looking at a 1989 911 Silver Anniversary edition with about 100,000 miles on it. The owner says it burns about a quart of oil every 1000 miles and a mechanic said it needed valve guides. I'm getting a PPI done later this week but for a 100k mile 3.2 with worn valve guides, would a total engine build be a better option? Better to pass on the car? The car drove fine, no smoke but it felt a little gutless compared to my Boxster S.
Replacing the bulb was a 10 minute job. Bulb was a Porsche only bulb. $3.65 at the dealer. The hardest part was removing and replacing the bolt behind the screen mesh thing. I used the baggie method. Jon
Did you ever resolve this? From Tool Pants' response above, he spoke with a mechanic that said the CC should work with the indicator bulb burned out. My CC was inop for over a year and I replaced the clutch switch with no improvement. My mechanic scanned it and said the indicator bulb was out so I replaced it and now it works! Now I'm curious, is the bulb part of the circuit, or could it be coincidence and I did something else during the bulb replacement?
00BoxsterS replied to lucian95's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)I've noticed the same on my 2000 Boxster S with Kumho Ecsta tires. I suspect the wider tires on Porsches attribute to additional scrubbing action with the road causing the tire to heat up more. Even when I drive my VW harder than my Boxster, I don't get nearly as much burnt rubber smell.
I have about 4,000 miles of driving with my Escort 9500ix and love it. The false alarm feature is nice and it also has a rear facing sensor. You can also download red light camera locations, known speed trap locations and speed camera locations which is updated every two weeks or so on their website. The Escort has saved me on numerous occasions and the lack of arrows pointing to where the radar is irrelevant to me. The strength and pattern of the signal is a good indication whether the cop is stationary, moving toward me, or moving away. I hard wired the power cable into my fuse box with a $29 straight wire kit, no unsightly wires seen anywhere. I highly recommend it. I don't have any experience with the V1 but I'm sure it is a quality unit. A lot of positive comments about it.
And I so desperateley want one!! I hate the 4 spoke. I am always beeping the horn. But..., I amn getting ready to move back to Alaska, so finances are directed towards other stuff. I'm stationed in Fairbanks and just bought a Boxster S in the lower states and am bringing it to Alaska. Are you taking your Boxster there? Will you be driving it in the winter and if so, what are you doing to it as far as installing engine/oil heaters? Right now, I'm in Iraq and will be driving the Boxster to Alaska in September/October. If you can share any experience you have with Porsches in Alaska, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. JT