goldenwarrior1

The air conditioner is a closed system, unless you have a failure of a component, there is no need to flush the system. If you don’t have the gauges to check it yourself have a mechanic take a look at it. You don't need to take it to a dealer for A/C service. Once the tech puts gauges on the system he will be able to tell if it needs topped off or if there is a problem with the system. If the system has leaked down due to a leak he must by law repair the leak before he recharges the system. A number of things can cause this including o-ring failures or the front seal on the compressor. The o-rings get hard with age and repeated exposure to high temps and can slowly leak over time. Simply replacing them usually fixes the problem. Good luck.

R/GW

JFP,

Thanks for the response. I will see what they have to say. I have been using thier products in all my vehicles for close to 10 years and have had no issues. 156K on my Honda and of the half dozen vehicles I have sold, all were run over 100K on AMSOIL. But those were all daily drivers/work vehicles and not high performance engines. Would be curious to see some official test results on a track engine running AMSOIL.

R/GW B)

I hate to toss a grenade into this very informative discussion but does any one have an opinion on AMSOIL? They have a 5W-40 European Engine Oil that claims to meet ACEA requirements.

AMSOIL European Formula

You can use your Bose speakers. Do a search on this website, lots of info from previous owners who have done these mods.

R/GW

Kimo,

Welcome to the forum! Enjoy the ride and like everything in life, what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!

Cheers, GW B)

:renntech:

+1 on the unknown suspension damage. You didn’t tell us how this happened so I am left to guess the direction of impact. Your picture doesn't have enough resolution to enlarge for detail but from what I can see you are most likely in the 2-3 thousand dollar range. Assuming you are taking it to a body shop that is. If you can paint and repair it yourself and buy all the parts used you could probably do it for under a grand. Good Luck and let us know it turns out. B)

R/GW

The 3.2L V-6 requires 6.7 Quarts to drain and fill with filter. A drain down time of 20 minutes is required to obtain an accurate level.

Oil type:

Above -13F......5W-40

All TEMPS......0W-40

And, in case you didnt know, your engine is made by VW for Audi and Porsche.

Your rear brakes do not require any tools different than any other brake job.

All of your questions can be answered by doing a search on this website. Your owners manual lists a multi-viscosity oil which means it can be used in almost any climate including New Jersey. If you do not have an owners manual they can be found in this website also. Hope this helps.

R/GW B)

Loren, maybe you can chime in here as you are more in tune with Porsche data services. But as I understand it, the maintenance history resides on Porsche's servers and is not accessible via any other commercial source. Unless you subscribe to Porsches services this information is not available. And I suspect you have to agree to abide by certain privacy rules to use the data. The only commercially available information I know of is what is maintained by government sources such as DMV etc. This data is sold to secondary sources such as Carfax etc for redistribution at a fee.

R/ GW

Dog Pile :jump: :jump:

Can you post a picture of the nylon part and perhaps show where it attaches?

Thanks

My recommendation would be to buy a metric triple square bit socket set. Trust me, if you plan on doing much DIY on your car you will use all of them. You can get a set for under 30.00 at places like Sears or your local Lowes tool section. I have been buying tools for over 30 years and have never regretted a purchase yet! B)

Below quote is from my MY03 Owners Manual IRT starting the car. Porsche does not recommend letting the car idle to heat up. This can cause damage to your catalytic converters.

The first operation of the starter is ended automatically

when the engine starts.

If the engine does not start, subsequent starter

operations will not be ended automatically.

If the engine fails to start after 10 or 15 seconds

of cranking:

[> Wait about 10 seconds before engaging the

starter again.

[> Do not let the engine idle to warm up.

[> When starting the engine, be ready to drive

immediately.

Drive vehicle at moderate speeds and avoid

engine speeds above 4,200 rpm during the

first 5 minutes.

The PN on the back is not a Porsche PN, most likely the manufacturer's PN. Cayenne parts start with 955. However, looking at the parts I would say they would fit, most likely the last digit is for the cap finish which by the pictures on ebay appear to be different from yours. Hope this helps. GW B)

Are all the brakes sticking or just one? Surface rust formed on the rotors after washing should not cause them to drag. You will get some noise when you first apply the brakes but nothing noticeable enough to put drag on the vehicle. If only one rotor is sticking then you have a brake caliper that is sticking. A lot of times a sticky caliper will loosen up once you start driving but over time it will wear one pad prematurely. As a first measure of inspection I would pull all the wheels and inspect each brake pad thickness. If one or more pad is considerably thinner than the rest then you may have a sticking rotor on that caliper. The rusty rotors may make it more pronounced. If all four rotors are sticking, which is very uncommon, then you have deeper issues such as ABS, PSM or hydraulic components. Good luck. :)

You can also spot weld a small metal rod to the center of the dent then use a body hammer to slowly work the dent up to the surface. When satisfied, grind the rod flush and then finish as you would any normal body repair. No holes in anything!

OBD II Pending Codes are also referred to as “continuous monitor” and “maturing codes”. An intermittent fault will cause the computer to store a pending code in memory. If the fault does not recur within 40 warm-up cycles, the code will be cleared from memory. If the fault recurs a specific number of times, the code will then mature into a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and the MIL or “check engine” light will turn on.

Misfire has nothing to do with oil or oil cap being loose, off etc. Have you performed any other maintenance in addition to the oil change?

see if this link helps.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=19647

Holy crap! Sorry for your loss, I would be concerned of deeper damage after seeing those photos. Interesting damage pattern, especially the white looking powder that appears to be from concrete. Almost looks like a horizontal impact not a vertical impact as one would get from "dropping" into a pothole or a sudden depression in the road.

Hope you get it fixed with no further issues.

Happy Holidays :cheers:

I have been plugging tires of all types and sizes for over 20 years and have never had a problem! Assuming you’re not driving 185 MPH, I wouldn’t worry about it. B)

Not sure where your bearings came from but considering the size I seriously doubt they came from your engine or transmission, especially if they are operating normally. Also, considering the weight of the bearing, I don't see how it could travel upwards and deposit itself in the louvers of the engine lid. My guess is someone is having a bit of fun at your expense. B)

We all like Porsches so it's all good

Spot on! Merry Christmas and Happy New year to all! :cheers:

Phillip, I thought you promised your were going to keep this car stock :D

Just kidding, bottom line, if YOU like it then why give a crap what other people think. There are as many opinions on this forum as members... I have the Getty Turbo design on mine and I think it looks great and I get a lot of comliments and head turners! B)

Oh dear... And I thought I was done..... :huh: Maybe next year... Wait...Next year is only a couple weeks away right? :P

Seriously, that's a lot of coin to drop. But if I do decide to do anything it will only be with a factory Porsche kit.

Sorry to be such a dumb American but how does 20mm translate to inches?

Thanks for your input!!

20mm is about 3/4 of an inch. Doesn't sound like much but you would definitely see the difference. I'm a bit of a purist so I personally wouldn't recommend any aftermarket drop kits. I prefer to stick with Porsche engineering… Plus that would put you in the same crowd as the tin can buzz bombs and I don’t think you would like that. Just my opinion!

Phillip,

The only suggestion I have to lower would be to install the X73 Carrera Race Suspension for Turbo/C4S. It will drop the car 20mm and Suncoast Porsche has the kit listed for $2549.00. You can install them yourself or maybe have a buddy assist.

GW :jump: