Wedge

I just read through the owner's manual for the '87 911 and remember it saying to depress the accelerator for "warm" starts and the clutch for "cold" starts. It's not a high-tech answer, but it was in the manual.

Hope it helps.

My first advice is to wrap the new K&N (or BMC) in newspaper and let it sit overnight. If the newspaper is oil soaked the next day do it again. The number one problem with these filters is over oiling and then that oil getting on the MAF sensor. If that happens you will have to remove the MAF and clean or replace it.

Have a look at the air filter DIY here.

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Wow! Glad I asked. That's a lot more involved than I thought. Thanks, Loren.

:) I want to thank contributors to this forum for their opinions and advice.  Recently, my '04 C4S required a new transmission as it would pop out of 2nd gear very infrequently.  While in for this service, I had the dealer install PSE and the SSK.  As others have said, these are the two best mods one can make to an already great car.  Thanks folks!

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PSE=Porsche Sport Exhaust

SSK=Short Shift Kit

Ready to install a K&N air filter. Does anything have to be disconnected prior to opening the air box? How many screws have to be removed? Any pitfalls in this job?

Thanks.

Can anybody shed a little historical perspective on this story? How did Porsche do in the "good old days" of the 964 and 993 based cars? I wonder if the philosophy set forth by Dr. W et al, the automation of production, and the Japanese influence has watered down the build quality and precision that Porsche has long been known for. Or, possibly, the cars are actually better than in the 70's, 80's, and 90's.

When installing PSE without electronics, do you have to do anything to the valves to make sure that the PSE is always "on"/loud? Or will it be "on"/loud as it is right out of the box?

My local dealer has it on sale for $1319.99. That's the lowest I've seen

http://0038637.netsolhost.com/pcsd/parts.htm

Click the link at the far left that says "Looking for a bargain? We've got it!" and you'll get a pdf with their sale prices. I think the one you want is 000 044 200 21.

-Scott

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Scott, Kim...thanks a lot. I appreciate the input.

Yes, it will work fine on the a 3.6 or 3.4 liter car. That is one of the "newest" part numbers.

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Much thanks!

Will a PSE with part number 000 044 200 21 work on a 2002 C2 coupe? Is that the most recent version of PSE?

Thanks

Does anyone know which aftermarket exhaust is loudest at idle...PSE, Fabspeed, or GHL (loud version)? Also, what is the going rate for a PSE and where is a good place to buy one?

Thanks

I installed a garage door opener in my 2001 C2 Cab by taking a handheld opener and soldering wires to the switch contacts.  Then I purchased a switch for one of the blank slots to the left of the radio and connected the wires to that.  I am trying to figure out how to illuminate the switch, but since one of the leads to illuminate the switch is already in use to complete the circuit for the garage door opener (which has its own power), I am not sure that i can safely do it.  Has anyone else ever figured this out?

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I used Scouser's instructions (steps #11 and #12) and pics to wire my spoiler switch. Piece of cake if you do what he did. The only thing to keep in mind is that he was wiring a right-hand drive car, so you would have to invert in your mind's eye (left becomes right, top becomes bottom) the switches and their tabs to get the correct polarity to the LED. I used the switch in the top left position in the dash (which was the PSM switch although any will do) and ran a 14g wire from the most lateral tab on the new switch (closest to the driver) to the lowest tab on the PSM switch. Then I ran a second 14g wire from the most medial tab on the new switch (closest to the passenger) to the most lateral tab on the PSM switch...and voila, it illuminated. Good luck.

Should be clips at the top that engage above the vent and tabs on the side that engage in clip on the sides of the vent.

Top clip

Side tabs

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Well, I am definitely missing those top clips. I wonder if they popped off when I removed the console cover. Do you have a part number for the top clips?

There should be locking tabs on the back of the U shaped part that lock into clips in the vent and the sides.

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Thanks Loren. My U shaped part has several locking tabs along the sides, but on the top I have just some rectangular holes. Are there supposed to be some metal or plastic locking tabs on the U shaped piece along the top? Or are there supposed to be metal clips on the vent piece? Any pics (2002 C2, US car)?

The illumination wire colour is grey/blue (grey with a blue tracer). This provides the positive (controlled with the dimmer control) for the illumination. The ground is brown. The illumination in the switch is not a bulb, its an LED so will only light if the wires are connected the right way round! Other areas to watch for is the to make sure the (horrible) wire taps are making a good connection. The best way to tap into a circuit is to extract the crimp from a connector, cut off the old crimp and re-crimp with your wir in place.

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Thanks, all. I finally did get the switch to illuminate. It was simply a polarity issue. Thanks for all your help and suggestions. I learned a lot.

Many thanks to Loren and Scouser for helping with my wiring issue on the spoiler switch. It operates and illuminates!

Now...when replacing my front center console (U-shaped plastic part), the top edge of the piece does not fit snugly/flush up against the dash behind it. I can still feel a SMALL lip/tag on the black plastic part that is attached to the center air vents, but the console piece does not engage these tabs. Hence the piece tends to bow out at the top. Is there a clip that I am missing? Is there an easy fix for this problem? Thanks in advance...again.

To throw a little food for thought into the fray. 

I have an '03 Targa.  When I wired my spoiler switch, I could not get the illumination LED in the switch to light when wired to the PSM switch using the Scouser directions.  This didn't make any logical sense as I had previously wired a switch for my garage door opener and sourced the illumination voltage from a switch nearby using the same method as Scouser described.  Basically, tapping into the two outermost  terminal wires on the connector.  When the Scouser directions didn't work for me, I pulled out the DVM and could never measure any significant voltage across the two outside terminals of the PSM switch regardless of the illumination brightness setting.  I still don't know why.

On to "Plan B": I was able to get the illumination to function when I wired it to the wiper control knob which sits at the bottom left of the "horseshoe".  Mine is illuminated.  I was also able to detect voltage readings moving up and down with the dimming function when I measured across the terminals on the knob.  So, mine is wired to the wiper control knob.  It works and hasn't stopped, so I've left well enough alone. 

I'm not sure if these comments will help or hurt the current situation, but it has been my recent experience.  :)

Dwayne

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Thanks Dwayne. Do you think the PSM switch didn't work because you used the two OUTER terminal wires instead of the most lateral one and the top one like Scouser described in his instructions. I dunno. I'm about to give it a try. Thanks to all who responded.

I installed a spoiler dash switch on my 02 C2 Coupe (US car) yesterday. All went well. The spoiler raises and lowers from the switch just fine. I ran into a problem with the tie-in to the wires that are supposed to illuminate the LED inside the switch. I followed the instructions from the guys at Car-Gems as well as I could. The directions read "Run the blue wire (fron the switch provided) to ANY blue/grey/brn (sic) near the radio...now take brown wire (from the switch) and tie to ANY brown wire." This is what I did, using the wires that go to the intermittent wiper dial on the lower left side of the console. Again, the switch activates the spoiler, but the LED does not illuminate. I have crimped the 2-to-1 connector properly (the metal piece is flush with the plastic and the cap locks over it).

In retrospect, I remembered that the intermittent wiper dial was not an illuminated piece. Logic tells me I need to tap into a different set of brown and blue wires that function as illuminating circuits. The only other switch on this side of the console goes to the "PSM Off" switch, which does illuminate. However, there is neither a blue nor a brown wire that runs to this switch. There are only striped wires: red and white, pink and white, yellow and white, etc.

Can someone please tell me how to proceed before I really make a mess of things? Should the wires I used be illuminating the switch LED? Should I disconnect the spoiler switch from the wiper dial and tap in to the PSM switch? If so, which wires are the ones I need to use? Much thanks!

The  'prespective' is that the auto market has changed and I am just glad they are still around.....  and more importantly, Porsche is still making CarreraGTs, GT3s, B-Turbos,C4Ss,997Ss..... I mean what other 'car' would you rather drive? :cheers:

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A stripped down, raw, light 996/997 from the factory. I know that the GT3 is available, but how about a plain old 996/997 with 350 hp weighing 400-500 lbs less than standard without having to tear it apart in my garage a la RS America?

I can't comment on the 997 either except to say I didn't like it when it came out but have warmed more to its looks now.

Let's put things into prespective. Porsche used to be a "sports car" manufacturer and catered for an exclusive market. They were never cheap but they produced the best cars. Through their dedication to both car and customer they developed a beatiful phenominon called "the Porsche Spirit". The flagship car has been the 911 but the Boxster saved their bacon. Nowadays, Porsche is the most successful car maker out their and they have shifted the goalposts to compete with the rest of the world's car manufacturers. Porsche is no longer an "exlcusive only club". They make SUV's, medium powered sports cars like the Boxster and soon a 4 door sedan let alone a new as yet unplaced Cayman. IMHO, the days of Porsche as we used to know it are finished, and so too is the long establsihed love of the 911.  Looking back at what has occured with Porsche in the last decade says it all: they don't race them anymore, the air-cooled engine finished, the Boxster (read future Cayman) will take off from where the 911 went out, The 4 door family car will be next and so on. The 997 is a stop gap......Ferrari wins the battle!

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The brutal truth. Wow, that is hard to swallow.

I cannot comment on the 997 in particular because I have only SEEN it, but I am disappointed in the direction that Porsche is taking in general. The shift towards luxury over sport is disappointing. I sure would like to see Dr. W take some of those DM profits and funnel them towards a werks racing team during my lifetime. Instead, it seems like Porsche is going the direction of economic growth to maintain its independence...yada, yada, yada...luxury GT's. I'd rather see Porsche going in the direction of the RS America!

  What size battery does it take?

Thanks

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The battery is a round, lithium battery, No. 2032, about the size of a nickel, and available at most drug stores, Radio Shacks, etc.

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Thank you, Kim!

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You're welcome. You can go the TSBs on this site and find the one that details how to change the battery. I know .... that sounds like a joke .... but it shows which way to pry out the battery without your worrying that you're going to break the little tab; and, how to re-initialize the transmitter if it does not work after the change.

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Thanks, again. You rock.

  What size battery does it take?

Thanks

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The battery is a round, lithium battery, No. 2032, about the size of a nickel, and available at most drug stores, Radio Shacks, etc.

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Thank you, Kim!

Most likely the battery - but sometimes some dirt gets in there too. It would be best to put in a new battery and clean the contacts well.

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Thank you, sir. Will do.

Here's what I did during sunday afternoon - I am going to continue a bit more but this is a good beginning IMO.

Plans are to replace the 80's 'fur' from the lower side of the doors with alcantara and the rest of fake leather bits of the center console as well

Due to my nonexisting skills in photography the console bits seem gray even though they are the same shade of black as the cluster cover.

Originals as templates:

Center console:

gauge cluste cover (or whatever that's called :) )

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Very Nice! Great personalization.

My remote locking/unlocking mechanism is becoming less and less sensitive. I have to hold the button down for a long time in order to lock/unlock the car, and the range is diminishing. Is this likely just a low battery in the key fob? What size battery does it take?

Thanks