Wedge

I just read through the owner's manual for the '87 911 and remember it saying to depress the accelerator for "warm" starts and the clutch for "cold" starts. It's not a high-tech answer, but it was in the manual. Hope it helps.

Wow! Glad I asked. That's a lot more involved than I thought. Thanks, Loren.

PSE=Porsche Sport Exhaust SSK=Short Shift Kit

Ready to install a K&N air filter. Does anything have to be disconnected prior to opening the air box? How many screws have to be removed? Any pitfalls in this job? Thanks.

Can anybody shed a little historical perspective on this story? How did Porsche do in the "good old days" of the 964 and 993 based cars? I wonder if the philosophy set forth by Dr. W et al, the automation of production, and the Japanese influence has watered down the build quality and precision that Porsche has long been known for. Or, possibly, the cars are actually better than in the 70's, 80's, and 90's.

When installing PSE without electronics, do you have to do anything to the valves to make sure that the PSE is always "on"/loud? Or will it be "on"/loud as it is right out of the box?

Scott, Kim...thanks a lot. I appreciate the input.

Much thanks!

Will a PSE with part number 000 044 200 21 work on a 2002 C2 coupe? Is that the most recent version of PSE? Thanks

Does anyone know which aftermarket exhaust is loudest at idle...PSE, Fabspeed, or GHL (loud version)? Also, what is the going rate for a PSE and where is a good place to buy one? Thanks

I used Scouser's instructions (steps #11 and #12) and pics to wire my spoiler switch. Piece of cake if you do what he did. The only thing to keep in mind is that he was wiring a right-hand drive car, so you would have to invert in your mind's eye (left becomes right, top becomes bottom) the switches and their tabs to get the correct polarity to the LED. I used the switch in the top left position in the dash (which was the PSM switch although any will do) and ran a 14g wire from the most lateral tab on the new switch (closest to the driver) to the lowest tab on the PSM switch. Then I ran a second 14g wire from the most medial tab on the new switch (closest to the passenger) to the most lateral tab on the PSM switch...and voila, it illuminated. Good luck.

Well, I am definitely missing those top clips. I wonder if they popped off when I removed the console cover. Do you have a part number for the top clips?

Thanks Loren. My U shaped part has several locking tabs along the sides, but on the top I have just some rectangular holes. Are there supposed to be some metal or plastic locking tabs on the U shaped piece along the top? Or are there supposed to be metal clips on the vent piece? Any pics (2002 C2, US car)?

Thanks, all. I finally did get the switch to illuminate. It was simply a polarity issue. Thanks for all your help and suggestions. I learned a lot.

Many thanks to Loren and Scouser for helping with my wiring issue on the spoiler switch. It operates and illuminates! Now...when replacing my front center console (U-shaped plastic part), the top edge of the piece does not fit snugly/flush up against the dash behind it. I can still feel a SMALL lip/tag on the black plastic part that is attached to the center air vents, but the console piece does not engage these tabs. Hence the piece tends to bow out at the top. Is there a clip that I am missing? Is there an easy fix for this problem? Thanks in advance...again.

Thanks Dwayne. Do you think the PSM switch didn't work because you used the two OUTER terminal wires instead of the most lateral one and the top one like Scouser described in his instructions. I dunno. I'm about to give it a try. Thanks to all who responded.

I installed a spoiler dash switch on my 02 C2 Coupe (US car) yesterday. All went well. The spoiler raises and lowers from the switch just fine. I ran into a problem with the tie-in to the wires that are supposed to illuminate the LED inside the switch. I followed the instructions from the guys at Car-Gems as well as I could. The directions read "Run the blue wire (fron the switch provided) to ANY blue/grey/brn (sic) near the radio...now take brown wire (from the switch) and tie to ANY brown wire." This is what I did, using the wires that go to the intermittent wiper dial on the lower left side of the console. Again, the switch activates the spoiler, but the LED does not illuminate. I have crimped the 2-to-1 connector properly (the metal piece is flush with the plastic and the cap locks over it). In retrospect, I remembered that the intermittent wiper dial was not an illuminated piece. Logic tells me I need to tap into a different set of brown and blue wires that function as illuminating circuits. The only other switch on this side of the console goes to the "PSM Off" switch, which does illuminate. However, there is neither a blue nor a brown wire that runs to this switch. There are only striped wires: red and white, pink and white, yellow and white, etc. Can someone please tell me how to proceed before I really make a mess of things? Should the wires I used be illuminating the switch LED? Should I disconnect the spoiler switch from the wiper dial and tap in to the PSM switch? If so, which wires are the ones I need to use? Much thanks!

A stripped down, raw, light 996/997 from the factory. I know that the GT3 is available, but how about a plain old 996/997 with 350 hp weighing 400-500 lbs less than standard without having to tear it apart in my garage a la RS America?

The brutal truth. Wow, that is hard to swallow.

I cannot comment on the 997 in particular because I have only SEEN it, but I am disappointed in the direction that Porsche is taking in general. The shift towards luxury over sport is disappointing. I sure would like to see Dr. W take some of those DM profits and funnel them towards a werks racing team during my lifetime. Instead, it seems like Porsche is going the direction of economic growth to maintain its independence...yada, yada, yada...luxury GT's. I'd rather see Porsche going in the direction of the RS America!

The battery is a round, lithium battery, No. 2032, about the size of a nickel, and available at most drug stores, Radio Shacks, etc. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thank you, Kim! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You're welcome. You can go the TSBs on this site and find the one that details how to change the battery. I know .... that sounds like a joke .... but it shows which way to pry out the battery without your worrying that you're going to break the little tab; and, how to re-initialize the transmitter if it does not work after the change. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thanks, again. You rock.

The battery is a round, lithium battery, No. 2032, about the size of a nickel, and available at most drug stores, Radio Shacks, etc. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thank you, Kim!

Thank you, sir. Will do.

Very Nice! Great personalization.

My remote locking/unlocking mechanism is becoming less and less sensitive. I have to hold the button down for a long time in order to lock/unlock the car, and the range is diminishing. Is this likely just a low battery in the key fob? What size battery does it take? Thanks