mptoledo

Ok, I think I have it narrowed down. My friend who is by no means a certified mechanic, but has turned a few wrenches on many cars, heard it and immediatley said torque converter. He, by his own admission is not qualifed to work on a porsche. He suggested a good place outside columbus. I will definately keep you all posted on my progress so if it happens to you, at least you will have a clue to what it is.

I did the atf/filter change and still have the problem. Unfortunately I have no way of recording it. It sounds like a churning noise/feeling. I was hoping somebody else has experieinced it so they could give me some insight. Please chime in if you have a good idea what it is.

Thanks for your reply. I will give the recording a a shot tomorrow. It's as much as or more of a feeling through my feet, but it is definately audible. Having been a new car salesmanager at a Porsche, Bmw Mitsubishi shop, I have seen my share of blown up transmissions. This doesn't sound like one. It sounds like something slipping or border line grinding. The grinding part is very mild but has concerned me enough to garage it. It shifted flawlessly up and down. Just when I was stopped with it in drive and more faintly when in park or neutral. I read the directions on my osb2 reader and it states that it reads all codes including transmission codes. Now I am not pretending to be an expert on these readers but I do have mechanal skills. If others know for sure the osb2 readers "definately" don't read the tiptronic codes, then I am at peace with that. In problem solving, I start with one thing at a time and then proceed to the next(process of elimination). Plus it can't hurt doing it. I am almost positive the o2 sensors are at the end of their life as it happened last year(codes). My mileage has gone down a bit also. I just thought if putting some AT fluid in,it might solve the problem enough to get it to a real mechanic.

It was $347 for my car. I know you get what you pay for, but I was hoping to keep the whole project around $150ish. I think I am going to try the transmission fluid change and then go from there. I will definately replace my o2 sensors. Where is the best place to buy all the stuff(atf filter/fluid/o2 sensors)?

Where is the best and cheapest place to get one of those? or are they "stupid" expensive? My closest P-dealership is like an hour away.

I purchased a obd2 reader today and only read two codes. 1.)p1133= oxygen sensor, adaptation, lower load bank two above limit. 2.)p1126=o2 sensng range 1 cyl 4-6 Neither pertained to the transmission. I knew it was getting to be time to change out my 02 sensors so no suprise there. I think I am first going to change my tranny fluid, yes I did read up on it and know it isn't the easiest one to do. I have done my: oil, plugs, fuel and air filter. I also changed my alternator this year. I have some mechanical skills, albeit limited. 1.) Where do you all suggest to get the parts? Automatic transmission filter & gasket kit and fluid(might as well get some 02 sensors while I am at it). 2.)How much fluid is generally needed. 3.)Anybody have a site they love for the DIYer for this project? I usually use Pedro's garage. Worst case scenerio is I will have to flat bed it to the nearest P-mechanic or worst of the worst case scenerios take it to the stealership

I can here a faint similar noise when I have the car in park, but nothing as prevalent as when I stop at a light. I thought about mounts after reading numerous posts on here and 986 forum, but it runs just fine until I stop. All gears including second seamed to shift fine. I don't know the mechanics of the transmission system very well(yet), so I am just guessing at what I think it is. Plus it's not just the sound but I can feal it through the floor boards and my shoes. It isn't a super loud sound but it is definately loud enough to raise concern.

Thanks for the response: It reminds me of when you slowly let of the brake at a stoplight. Kind of a grinding noise. Its like whatever is suppose to stop the clutch from engaging isn't doing its job. I am not a mechanic, but a pretty good problem solver. I definatley know its with the mechanics of the transmission.

2001 Box s Tiptronic with 67k miles When I started my car up and put it in drive I heard a crunching or slipping sound. i could actually feel it with my feet. It wasn't overly loud, but it was audible. It happens when stopped at a light with the car in drive mostly. I could hear a similar slightly lesser noise when I shifted it in park or Neutral. I had no choice but to drive it home. The car drove flawlessly on the 90 mile journey home. It shifted fine from take off, up and down the gears. There wasn't any over heating issue or reving issues(idle was fine), just only happened when I stopped at a light or was parked. I am taking a stab at what I think might be wrong: Does the tip have a sort of clutch brake/plate that keeps the clutch from engaging when stopped? My check engine light did come on a few weeks ago. Is there a simple unit I can buy from autozone that would work for my car? Update: I started it up today and it made the same noise/feeling. I turned it off immediately and will not drive it until i have it diagnosed. There was no fluid on the floor.

First off, Kudos for hitting the 150k mile club. What intrigues me is that you support the theory if you drive your Boxster aggresively you have less engine related problems. It has to do with Oil pressure and oil temp being high and hot are best for the Boxsters. While Chris doesn't drive his hard and has had numerous problems ( no offense Chris) :) It may be just coincidence, but I don't believe in coincidence. I seriously think the harder(to an extent) you drive your car the less problems you have!! Maintenence is also key. Just a couple questions so I can hopefully get those kind of miles? 1.) what tires do you get 25k from? 2.) What brand oil do you use? Keep up the great Success story!! ;)

Thanks for the reply. I just did most of my 60k maint myself. Plugs, belt, oil, fuel, air filter. I was just wondering if I did someghing wrong, would a light come on and tell me. Ie I had to unhook a few wires to get to a few plugs(cat sensor). If I didn't get them hooked up back properly, I was just hoping for a light of some sorts.

Being a novice but a fast learner, I was wondering if a warning light had to come on first before you had any "codes"? The reason I ask is I just got a 2001 Box "s" with 58k miles last month. I want to make sure everything is working properly and have heard quite a few questions about "Codes". I didn't know if I had any codes if there were no warning lights. Thanks MP.

My drivers side seems loose also. are you talking the housing or the black vents inside? I was refering to the housing. My passenger side seems pretty snug. it fits better for some reason.

I just finished replacing my spark plugs and it went pretty easy. I would say it was a 4.5 out 10. 1=putting air in your tire, 10=engine rebuild. Actually it was pretty simple except 1 spark plug cover(closest to passenger seat). I would have given it a 3.5 or 4 but I penalized it for the time it took me to clean myself up. :eek: good God you get dirty. Oh plan to cut your nails after wards. Total time about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. 1 1/2 if it wasnt for the darned one spark plug. Tools needed: 1.) 6 spark plugs( I used NGK iridium $6.99 each) 2.) jack/ jack stands 3.) 2 allen wrenches, short and regular 4.) Socket for plugs 5.) a lot of Frickin degrease soap 6.) and of course Pedro's how to!! **** that guy is cool!! :cheers: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/Chang...26%20Tubes.html Here is How I did it: 3 plugs on each side 1.) Unloosen the lug nuts on passenger rear tire. 2.) Jack one side up( I started on passenger(it is the hardest) and placed support jack under it between the tire and the seat on the round piece right before the tire.( I left the jack up just for safety) 3.) Take tire off. 4.) Take off two "plastic" bolts holding wheel well guard(towards seat). this is a must. 5.) You need two allen wrenches a short(2"-3") and a long(4"-?). this will save you time. Doesn't matter what one you start with(I started with 1st one towards rear). two allen screws need to be removed(hardest part of the job). 6.) Gently pull off coil pack(no need to unhook wires. use socket to take out old and put in new. 7.) Replace coil pack and allen screws and repeat for the rest. 8.) The one closest to the pass seat was a pain. The wire harness unhooked on me(didn't break, just unhooked). but it one end crept up the rubber guard. I spent 20 minutes trying to fish it out but I finally took scissors and cut a slit on the rubber. Peeled back the rubber and rehooked it up. 9.) put tire back on (inspect tire first, I found some glass and a small nail). The correct pattern to put the nuts back on( :D I said nuts) is the star of David pattern or pentagram. top-bottom-top right-bottom left-..... 10.) repeat steps 1 through 9 on the other side. The driver’s side only took about 10 or 15 minutes, it was a breeze. Over all I was impressed at how easy it was, if it wasn't for the 1 spark plug coil coming off and the frickin mess, I would have given this a 3 out of 10. The old plugs looked pretty worn down and I definately noticed better idling and it seemed to purr a little better. I only started it for a few seconds as I am waiting on the oil change to test drive it to see how much of an improvement there real is. Projects completed: 1.) Serpentine belt 2.) Sparkplugs 3.) Radio replaced Projects to do: Oil change,air filter, fuel filter (tomorrow depending on UPS :D ) Speaker change(rear, and fronts) Tires (soon maybe spring) Battery (spring).

Hey there is always community college. Plus the world needs ditch diggers about as much as I need a 3.8 engine :thumbup:

So out of curiousity, What did you pay for it? I have been pondering the thought of doing something similar. My thought is if the engine blows, screw the kids college fund he can always get a scholorship. Daddy needs a 3.4 or 3.8 in his box!! :drive:

Yeah right. You make it sound so easy. I might go without the tubes this time. I want to get the plugs in asap.

Parts Ordered 1997-2009 Porsche Boxster K&N Oil Filter Oil Filter Price: $11.85 Qty: 1 Part #: K33HP7011 Its the insert piece with gasket thingy. I plan to change my oil every 7k miles or at least once a year. I need to do my plugs. Have you ever done plugs? If so what sight did you use to help? Looks pretty easy but who knows. I did finally pick up a torque wrench finally. I am going with the iridium plugs.

Does sunset run those specials a lot? I already picked up two 4.? liter jugs(5 quarts)from wallyworld for $22 each. Now they are the Mobile 1 10w40 high mileage. I plan on putting them in this week as soon as I get my filters(oil/gas/fuel). I used autopartswarehouse.com They were the cheapest by far and gave free shippping. I just need to get the washer clamp thingy that helps seal the new oil plug. I might even clean the throttle body if i have time. I have been using pedros site. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site/DIY%20Projects.html i find it easy with his step by step help. I did the serpentine belt last week. Only took about 15 minutes and was quite easy. I like doing that kind of stuff myslef as I get to know the car more so than paying somebody a lot of stupid money to do the same thing.

Wow, thats insane. I have never heard of it. No offense but it sound crazy to wait that long. But if it works then kudos to you !!

yep I read just about everything in the past week. I even had to read charles navarro's stuff twice(very technical). http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z2 In one breath he says Mobil is crap, in the next paragraph he says "We do not recommend high-mileage oils or high-mileage/stop leak/stop smoke additives because of the questionable formulation of some of these lubricants. Although not always the case, some high-mileage oils share the same improved HTHS viscosities and higher levels of anti-wear additives, such as with Mobil 1 10w40 High Mileage formulation" So "frick" it, I just picked up 2 big*(5q each) Mobil 1 HM 10w40 at walmart for $22 each. I refuse to do any research on oil filters, as it would probably kill me!! I am going with K&N Gold. I have never heard anything bad about K&N. what I came away with is: 1.) stay away from xxW30 weights. 2.) oil companies are caving to epa's pressure and oil today isn't as good as oil yesterday(most cases) 3.) Nobody wants to go out on a limb and promote one of the oils(unless they are selling it). 4.) For an educated person, who is "anal" about researching stuff before doing it, this really sucks!!!

Hey I appreciate the reply, I am thinking along the same lines as you with the additives. Mobil states the additives won't effect your engine if they aren't needed. Jake Raby(guru/expert on the subject) chimed in on the 986 forum, but couldn't/wouldn't give me a difinitive answer. I am sure it is due to legal reasons, but it kind of sucks when someone knows something that could really help a fellow Porsche owner and won't/can't help me. I am looking to keep this car for quite awhile and would rather not put in crap oil that could hurt my engine.

I am sure the Oil debate has been beaten to death but I am still not sure of what to put in my box. I was all ready to go get some synthetic oil and do my change, then I got stupid and googled the subject. Good frickin God, I found it harder the chooese the oil than to change it. In my extensive research I have discovered a few things. Never, Ever use xxW30. Most stores don't carry xxW40, which is the oil of choice for experts. My box is a 2001 "S" with 60k miles. I have it narrowed down between 2 oils that are available in my limited area. Mobil 1 10w40 high milage, and Catrol syntec xxW40. Any quick thoughts on the Highmilage mobile?