voltairesb

The dirt accumulates between the plastic inner fender and metal inner fender.

A short but very intense rain storm a week ago was a painful but important lesson for me and all other cab owners out there. The 997 is every bit as at risk as old boxsters were to severe and expensive water damage from clogged drains. And i'm not talking about the easy to clean cowl drains adjacent the battery in the front, i'm talking about a set of completely hidden, all but unknown drains for the rear. For the 997, porsche devised a system of drip trays which run against the inner walls of the car, down into a 15mm x 250mmx400mm tray behind the driver and passenger seats (below the carpet insulation) and out a set of narrow drain tubes into a cavity between the body and the plastic inner fender. Silt and other road grime accumulates in a "cake" about 1 inch x 7 inches in this space and can get thicker and thicker as silt deposits. I had my yearly convertible maintenance done (this is the only place porsche mentions drains, and then, not specifically) one year ago and when my Dealer disassembled my car to begin repairing and replacing the rear control module, they found that cake to be about 6 inches tall. My dealer went round and round with PCNA for about 4 days before Porsche stepped up and did the right thing and decided to pay for it. But here is the word to the wise. My car is garaged, driven apps 5-6k miles a year, and washed 2x a month, and I never knew this problem existed. My car has been in the dealer for 2 oil changes, and a new clutch, and both seats have been out for a pesky problem with the lumbar support. At no time in any of this work did it occur to them, or become obvious to them, that cleaning needed to be done. So i suggest everyone add this new step to their quarterly cleaning. 4 times a year, take your rear inner fenders off, clean the accumulated silt, and blow that drain hose out with an air hose, lift up the rear carpets and make sure the drain pans are clear. I'm going to get pictures from the dealer so you'll be able to see what i mean. best of luck to everyone!

I parked my 06 997 cab outside today, and we had a serious downpour. Friends came in and told me that my lights were on, but i hadn't left them on. Shortly thereafter My car started completely losing it, honking, spoiler going up and down. Brought it to the dealer, the drivers side rear carpet is soaked and there is quite a bit of water under the carpet. I've looked extensively for a cleaning proceedure for rear drains, but not found anything. I would argue that the cpo warranty is responsible to pay for the damage. Does anyone have experience with this?

Its the actuator for the front trunk. My car had the exact same problem and the service manager claimed they'd never heard of such a thing. They thought it was a noisy fuel pump at first. If you need the part numbers from the RO i can get that for you.

I think my dealer is just confused. They've been pretty good in general. There is no second dealer within an hour's drive. They just replaced the valve control for the driver's lumbar...which would seem to cause the problem, not sure...could just be a loose wire in that driver's side switch that is failing to activate the pump for the upper bag.. It is 3 bags, correct? Not 2?

Guys; I have an 06 997 cab with memory full power and lumbar support. I had an issue with the driver's side lumbar and brought it to the dealer, who replaced the valve body under the certified warranty. However, the problem still seems to be there. When i press the four way switch forward, it inflates the main bag, when i press the back button it deflates. When i press the up, it does nothing except delflate the main bag (no compressor running) but on the passenger side, the up button slightly inflates the upper bag, and slightly deflates the lower bag (compressor does run). The dealer assures me its working. Am I crazy? thanks!

Maurice; Still a work in progress. I'll go backwards 3) I followed this procedure, and it resolved the issue that i had with the windscreen and the rollbar. That said, it renewed the problem of the leading edge not coming down low enough to close properly 2) Let me say one thing first, when the top is up, the clamshell has closed properly. I tried your method, and indeed the right side was higher at 3 inches. So i used the drill to synchronize the transmissions, to two results a:i got them where they were even at 3 inches, however when the top is DOWN, the right side still doesn't close 100%, it sits up about 1/4 inch. a little push makes it flat. b: the leading edge is now uneven when closing the top, where the drivers side sits up 1.5 -2 inches higher than the passenger side. I can still pull the top down and latch it, but its very frustrating. Any advice?

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Three weeks ago we broke 50f here in austin, and my back window finally gave up. I looked into stitching in a new window, but didn't think my canvas was perfect enough to justify going that route. Luckily, a local boxster lover had a gaah/robbins style replacement glass windowed top already installed on a frame that he pulled from his track car. We installed the top in his driveway the sunday before last and found it to be nothing but trouble. After getting everything installed, the top wouldn't close in the front, leaving a several inch gap. We adjusted the arm position (we'd unbolted them to take off the old top) which at least allowed us to get it closed, but it was clear that the top was too tight. We hoped it might stretch. It has now stretched slightly (such that it will comfortably closed but it is still much too tight for my comfort) but several other problems persist. 1) the passenger side main cable continues to fall outside the channel. The cable is intact, i've turned around the finger spring to increase tension, and the upper tether is in good condition. 2) when fully open the back passenger side of the clam shell doesn't close perfectly, leaving a 1/4 inch gap. this goes away when you manually compress the top. I've tried tightening the tension cables on the 3rd bow, but this doesn't seem to help 3) when opening, the front weatherstripping has started to push into the windscreens, and the top gets stuck on the rollbar. a quick push sets it free and it closes the rest of the way without incident, but i've never had this problem before. Any advice?

Sorry! becker 1 4462 15088557 24/99