viper501

The second link with the pinouts for the amp are right on for the 99 C2. I used it recently when reconfiguring my amp installation. Are you using an adapter for the stereo head unit? If so, you should be able to attach it to the harness without issue.

Check out ... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8780 for some ideas. I just used a piece of abs plastic sheet to mount to.

The stock speakers in my 99 C2 were garbage. Not as bad as my BMW ///M Roady was but really bad. I'd highly recommend changing them all out. The Alpine h/u, or for that matter the Pioneer, should be no problem to install using a VW/Audi harness adapter and a FM antenna adapter. I used Focal's w/ the tweeter mounted in the stock dash location and the 5 1/4's in the door spaces. I then used an inexpensive set of MB Quarts for fill in the stock rear location. I am still debating how to deal with the sub question. I want the a-i box that mounts in the passenger footwell but can't bring myself to shell out that kind of money for it right now (performance is a more pressing priority since the Focal's still provide 'decent' bass). As far as the Amp, I'd buy the cleanest signal you can afford with the highest, within reason, power output. Overdriving the amp is bad for both the speakers and the amp. I'd rather have the headroom in the amp than be trying to make it do things it doesn't have the strength to do. With that philosophy also brings a responsbility to not frag the speakers by turning the thing all the way up. Sort of like your throttle. :D If budget is an issue, I'd upgrade the speakers and amp first, then add a new head unit, then the sub. Also, while I have no personal experience, my understanding is that the self-powered subs are a definite 'compromise' and you'd be better served doing something custom ( I'm probably going to do a clone of the caraudioinnovations box with 3 JL 6w0's being driven by my JL 250/1 .

Cut the head off and drill her out. You may be able to use something like this http://fulltorque.com/inserts.htm to repair the threads. Be careful with seat bolts though. You don't want your seat breaking off in an impact/crash.

I'd think for the cost of the Motronic and dyno time you could have the car supercharged with a plug and play dyno map and get more hp than any streetable N/A mods will.

Roger that. I'd suggest just ordering a new one, make a slit in the center and snake the wires through, then seal it up with some black RTV. Assuming this is the large grommet that has two 'ears' on it, you shouldn't have too much concern about water in that area. There are drains in the battery area and should allow any water that does enter to flow out from under the car. There would have to be clogged drains (which will happen with leaves and such) or a lot of rain at one time to start filling up that space. If you have problems ordering a new grommet from the UK, try one of the US mail order dealers. Given the pound these days, you should be golden.

I don't know how you 'break' a rubber grommet. You should be able to re-seal it with some RTV sealant.

I have heard the RE050A is not recommended & is too heavy. Not my experience. I've been very pleased with mine so far. When I was shopping, I used TireRack's online data to check relative weights, as well as performance data. One of my concerns was to balance the rear replacement tires with the front S-03's.

I did this mod last night after trying to figure out why *both* of my remote keys won't work any longer. :huh: Took me a few minutes to get everything ready ( remove the vent piece and the cruise control switch ). Popped the C clip off without a problem. Used a screwdriver to move the pin to the side but ran into a little difficulty when I realized that the pin would not pop out of the housing. Had to depress the pedal a bit to get it to move the rest of the way and release from the pedal. Then had to figure out how to get the spring canister out of the mounting frame. Finally realized that I need to point the spring down while pushing the pedal down. This allowed enough room for the canister to drop free. Cruise control is not quite working right. The pedal has just enough slop at the top to keep it of the switch, or at least keep it from fully depressing the plunger. I can put my toe under it and pull it up enough to allow the cruise to work. Definitely like the change in the pedal feel. More connected, less isolated and numb. My car is a daily driver so I've practiced enough with it that I was pretty much over the 1st gear stall / clutch slip problem. Although on some days there is still substantially more clutch slip than I would prefer. (Wonder if this is why 996's have a reputation for eating clutches?) The good news is that it is substantially easier to engage and disengage without over slipping. I also agree with some of the posts that say you can actually shift faster now. It does take a little getting used to. There is a lot more perceived clutch pedal effort at first. Definitely won't be sitting at red lights with the car in gear and the clutch in (although that may be good since the idler pulley probably appreciates it)

:lol: Well, at least that wasn't an ordeal.

Congratulations on mission accomplished ... now to put a new one in?

also try the air/oil separator bellows. as a 99 I'm sure it has probably cracked and is allowing for a vacuum leak

Great! :cheers: :clapping: :renntech:

Labor rate is about right but the time is pretty high. Don't know if that is book or not. Thermostat housing should not need to be replaced. Will need a gasket for it but that is cheap. From the sound of it, your pump ate itself like mine did. Bearings died allowing the shaft to wobble the impeller around.

That is correct. There are a number of aftermarket turbo look bumpers in fiberglass, and I think I've seen one in urethane as well. Do a search on google and you should find a number of 'em. Be warned though that some of the products may require fairly substantial work prior to painting.

Also will need new headlights and fenders for the OEM turbo bumper, right?

If a CDC-3 is a disc changer I do not have one. I know my 9835 will control a changer but have not got one since I have an 80 gig i-pod instead. The Alpine controls it pretty well, even with the older style adapter. Just had to create several playlists to make searching through a bit easier.

What hoses is he going to replace? My pump died at over 100k (IIRC). I think total bill on it was about five hundred. Would have done it myself but didn't have adequate time.

DIY and save the $ and the fear that some idiot will screw up the car. 1300 for an install is insane. 600 is more appropriate but still a bit pricey.

or just cut em back and wire em together.

My suggestion would be to call a few dealers and independents and find out what the RMS, Clutch, clutch lever, intermediate shaft seal, and case bolt replacement is going to cost, including parts and labor. That will be the most accurate measure of the cost of the work. Probably hard for anyone to put a decent number on the car based on the information supplied. Options are expensive on these cars and some carry more 'value' than others (for example the aero kit).

I used a VW/Audi adapater to put my Alpine 9835 in my 99 C2. You will also need an antenna adapter for Audi/VW.

In that check, be sure to look at the poorly placed, and poorly designed, and prone to failure, bellows between the engine and the oil/air separator. It is an easy fix and, at least for my car, cleared up all of the CEL's.

Thanks for the reply guys.

I'm interested to hear what the suggested route is for this. One of these days I need to wire up my rear LIDAR detector and would love to have some idea for a good entry point for the lead before spending too much time under the car.