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Izzy

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Everything posted by Izzy

  1. Izzy
    John, I have not, but if you did you would only get the reservoir fluid. The cycles are pretty short, and I can't imagine anyone opening and closing more than 5-6 times a day. Fluid should last a long time, short of getting some humidity entraped.
  2. Izzy
    Did you use "brake clean" on the rotors before mounting? Get any oils out. I didn't, it was very "entertaining", but I wouldn't recommend it.
  3. Izzy
    Have to ask, Mother, did the hammer fell on the door sill? :P
  4. Izzy
    From my experience, I would recommend shopping through the internet for the deals, but buy a certified used car from a dealer for the warranty and piece of mind. I know the "certified" may not mean much, but the warranty does since any problems are handled by a dealer. But make sure the warranty can be transferred to Canada.
  5. Izzy
    Yes, familiar spot. The rubber may have some plastic deformation on it if the top hasn't been opened a lot to allow the rubber to spring back and forth, stay elastic I guess. My solution was to recondition the rubber by using vaseline. Sounds crazy but it worked by aplying a coat of vaseline to the rubber, wait a few hours, clean off all excess and repeat a couple of times. No more leaks Now if you really want to see the leaks on a cabrio, take it to a gas station carwash with the high pressure water wand that moves around the car? Needless to say, my sons where with me and laughing histerically. I was being lazy and cheap, I know, since I read the owners manual AFTER I went to the carwash. So I would imagine a good old-fashioned high intensity Florida shower can manage a leak in the roof.
  6. Izzy
    I had mine tied off too. Not just for track events, but all the time so I don't have to worry about it. Did melt them once and learned..... If you are getting the wear sensor light on the dash, buy the sensor to replace it ($12 I think each) and replace it, but use the ties to get them out of the way. I got mine on to the brake line. If you are concerned about missing a low pad condition, then reinstall them but remember to tie them off before track day. I track monthly and replace pads and wheels for track use, so I can keep and eye on the street pad condition anyway. And Rangers lead the way, hoorah
  7. Izzy
    I would bet it is the cat converter welds are loose based on your description. I had the same exact issue and that is what it was. Dealer will replace under warranty, they have replaced a few this year since track season openned. This is how I found out, use a rubber mallet and tap each part, muffler, cat converter, etc until you track it down. If when you tap the cat it sounds like loose marbles in there, you found the issue.
  8. Izzy
    You are welcome. With that in mind, I would swap the valve, cheap insurance and it can go bad. I think they run about $50, and takes 30 minutes to change including lifting the car. I had around 50K miles on the car when the valve went bye bye.
  9. Izzy
    I changed mine at 45K miles, and did notice a difference in shifting. I did it myself (see DIY Maintenance) and the fluid was DIRTY. The pan was "gunky" also. I do track the car, so I am sure it has some to do with it. After the first change, I did it yearly since it was not a big job and I was on track 15+ days/year. Every time the fluid was kind of dirty. Also keep in mind when you do a transmission drain and fill, you only drain about 6 quarts out of the 9 in there. Multiple drain and fills is what I did to get all the fluid nice and red. It did make a difference to my butt-meter performance. Smoother shifting.
  10. Izzy
    Showboat, In the DIY I used Pennzoil Multivehicle ATF. What I did is called Pennzoil Technical dept. and asked for the equivalent to ESSO ATF LT 71141 and that is what they gave me. I could not find the ESSO and the dealer price was very high for the container. These posts can give you other options, VW may sell the quarts a lot cheaper than Porsche too. http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/52539 http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/jaguar/ja.../6871985-1.html And from AMSOIL http://www.thebestoil.com/atf.asp
  11. Izzy
    Showboat, for the transmission, DTC 37 is Transmission Temperature Sensor (P0710 for OBDII). Here is what I could find about it: Two things come to mind, the ATF coolant switchover valve or the wiring harness. The valve I replaced in my car, it was leaking. Easy job to do if you are so inclined. The valve could be stuck open. There is vaccum line to the valve, make sure it is not loose. The valve is plastic, under the car near the transmission cooler. If you clamp both coolant lines between the valve, easy to remove without a mess. If the temp sensor is damaged, you have to replace the wiring harness as the "sensor is integrated in the harness". I would start with the valve, make sure the vac line (small black hose attached to the top of the valve housing) is secured, then replace the valve as it is pretty cheap relatitve to the harness. The other codes are related to the O2 Sensor. But can also be triggered by a dirty MAF. Use some electrical cleaner to clean it and reset the codes. If the code persists, then I would replace the sensor.
  12. Izzy
    Showboat, Have the codes read with an OBDII reader, and if you do not have a reader you can go to an "autozone" type of store and they can read the codes. Write them down and post them here again. Most Tip codes will begin with "07". When was the last time you changed the Transmission fluid? Could be as simple as that, low pressure to the transmission. Could be some serious problem. Get the codes first though.
  13. Izzy
    Chuck, If you want to remove the bumpers, here is the picture for 2001 or lower MY. For 2002 or newer there are no bolts under the bumperetes, all else is the same. You want to remove the tail lights first, which after opnening the rear bonnet, use a 10mm socket to removet he bolt holing the light, then the lights pulls out. Once you remove the bumper cove, on each side of the mufflers you will see the shiny heat shields, they are held in place with 10mm nuts, remove them (and dont' forget the one behind the wheel well) and you have the mufflers exposed. I like to rais the rear of my car to do this, so is use the rear ramps, just drive up on reverse, no need for the wheels to come off for muffler. You don't have to, but it does make the job a lot easier for me to have the car raised on the back and the bumpers and shields off. Short time to remove, less hassle to do the work plus plenty of sunlight to work through. Just my opinion. Izzy
  14. Izzy
    Scott, does it happens at all speeds? Here is my experience between my 99 and the '03, same pads, clean fluid, very similar rotor life. The 99 does seem to engage the breaks a lot quicker than the 03, the difference is significant. Our local dealer service manager, who also inspects our cars before track events, even commented on it. So I am looking for some open time to leave the car there with him for further check. It was pretty scary when, on track, I pushed the break pedal on the 03 at the same spot that I would do with the 99, and it seemed that the car was not slowing down. Also same pads, clean fluid. But, I did notice that it is a lot worse at higher speeds.
  15. Izzy
    If the fingers don't work (mine where too slippery), you can "create" some like this that worked for me:
  16. Izzy
    Kevin, How easy or hard was it to remove the regular seats and place the racing seat in the car? I was wondering if it was something that could be done before the track day or is it hours of work to do. Thank you Izzy
  17. Izzy
    Yes, makes perfect sense to me. I had the same problem and solved it. I think all you need to do is add some grease or lubrication to the ball screw (bolt-looking-thing) that rotates and brings the flaps up and down at the same time. So here is the recipe: 1. Remove the rear carpet cover that is behind the rear seats. 2 phillips screws hold it in place 2. With a flashlight, find the vertical screw that rotates, hard to miss. 3. Use a small brush and some grease to add some directly on the screw 4. Actuate the top so that the mechanism spins and spreads the lubrication That is all. There is also TSB 6141, that has other directions for another failure. It has good pictures though that will help you take appart the rear cover and find the mechanism. But it is very easy to do. Izzy
  18. Izzy
    I am going to dealer soon for something similar. Here are my 2 cents, relative to my 1999, the 2003 C2 stops like crap sometimes. At low speeds, no issues. But at high speeds, as you said, I am concerned since I have to bury the pedal. Doesn't feel good, and I can compare back to back both cars braking on the same roads, same fluids, same pads. Not sure what it is, all I can tell you is that one car stops amazingly fast at all speeds, the other doesn't. Also makes for less than perfect track days, as I am leery to brake as late with the '03 as I was with the '99. I am not sure if there is any logic to decrease braking power at high speed or not. Our local dealer is pretty good, so will let you know what they say and get back to you. But I have seen the difference
  19. Izzy
    I just had the same problem. A rattle sound from the mufflers after a day of DE at VIR. When I inspected by tapping with a rubber mallet, found that the cat sounded like it had loose marbles inside of it. Called our local dealer and he has replaced a few since the DE season started, apparently the vibration of running over the "gators" or rumble strips as you track out can loosen the welds. Warranty work.
  20. Izzy
    JAS, I have a 3 stalk switch assembly from a 99 when I upgraded to the 4 stalk - OBC. Let me know if you will need it/interested.
  21. Izzy
    Or it was probably purchased by an old lady who only drove it to church on Sundays. Yeah, that is probably it. If the dealer is dishonest then you are right to be suspicious. Hit him with some kali sticks until he confess.
  22. Izzy
    I am not sure, but 11,000 km at 900 hours is 12 km/hr average. What makes you think it is tampered?
  23. Izzy
    19K miles, only problem is staying on the dark part of the track and off the slippery green stuff. 64K miles on the Tiptronic, sold it with no major problems. But you bring a good point, not sure if possible for Loren to create a database in the site, where we can enter car information with subsets for problems within areas or main components. It would be powerful data to have if we get a decent population and can do analysis - predictions - etc.
  24. Izzy
    Don Cesar, The Collection has to pay for their plush showroom, showgirls sitting behind the desk, all the decorations, and rent. Surprised it was not $2500. Ouch is right. Izzy
  25. Izzy
    Could also be some bad gas you got recently. It happens.
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