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Izzy

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Everything posted by Izzy

  1. Izzy
    Now that I have a 2003 wide body coupe (wide tack option code), what is the actual difference? I got the car from out of state, brought to the local dealer and one of the guys said "wow, it is a C4", which obviously it is not. The option codes revealed "wide track" option. I parked it next to my 99 C2 cabrio, but can't tell the difference. But I was surprised how quickly the dealer service manager immediately saw a difference. Anyone knows the specs? Thank you
  2. Izzy
    It can make a big difference where you live, even in Country Club Prado where my sister is, stolen before 10 pm in that wide, well lit street! I live "Small Town NC", and I get a kick out of Dad coming to visit from Miami, locking every window and door, turning every light outside at night, locking the cars, etc. I can't tell you Cesar how many times he locks himself out of the house, just going to the back yard! It can be funny, specially when I tell him "If we lock the house, then the neighbors can't come in and get something they need", which is true, and blows his mind. Have you look in Ebay? May not be a bad idea to keep a spare set of second hand headlights for emergency, so you can at least drive the car. Don't have to be perfect as long as they fit.... Another places for pre-enjoyed spares which I have purchased from: http://911pcar.com/ http://www.partsheaven.com/ http://stores.ebay.com/Redline-Service-99-Cent-Store This last one was very easy to work with. I did not like dealing with Silver Star Recycling. Buena suerte! Izzy
  3. Izzy
    It is part of the positives and negatives of living in Miami. I grew up there, still have all my family there, and brother-in-law has the lights from his '03 Cabrio stolen twice, once from his driveway at home, second time from the "secured" garage in Coral Gables where his office is. Both require repairing and repainting the front as the thieves where not gentle. He now drives a BMW. So the harder you make it for them, the bigger the crowbar they will use. Lucky for you they didn't do it when you stopped on a red light. It has been known to happen.....
  4. Izzy
    I do the same thing here in Charlotte, run Castrol syntech 15-50 during the Summer, 0-40 Mobil in the winter. The Porsche dealer techs I talked to told me they would recommend that solution and would not put 0-40 on their own cars for summer. Go figure!
  5. Izzy
    One more thought, the two flaps on the sides that actuate when you open the top to cover the void. I did have a problem of the top crooked or not operating well as these two flaps where out of sequence. The right side was completing the cycle much sooner than the left, messing up the operation. If they are, the fix was to apply a little bit of grease to the ball screw that lowers and raise the flap. Just remove the panel behind the rear seats, and you can see the long ball screws. A small brush and some all purpose grease did the trick, they move at the same speed and top wasn't crooked anymore.
  6. Izzy
    Does the "clam shell" cover work? I had a problem last month where the motor had to be replaced (warranty), the top was acting up. Took it to Hendrick and they did the work, there is a completly new bracket and motor with different design than original that solved the problem. While I was tinkering with the top, I did notice some lag on the left side, and a clunking noise. With the top halfway up, I noticed near the rear most part of the top frame a metal "support" that was out of place and bent. This is a perforated metal part that wrapped on the outer edge of the top frame. Don't know how it was bent, but pushing it back into place did the trick. I used gloves and pliers, it is a sharp piece of steel. But nothing as basd as you desribe, though.
  7. Izzy
    sorry Skipp, can't visualize what it looks like. I have never experienced something like that on my cabrio. Any pictures to share?
  8. Izzy
    I agree, the RT615 son increibles en la calle tambien. I just don't want to use them up in my daily driver. But last night, installed the RT's wheels and Pagid orange pads since I am going to the track on Friday, and won't have time with business trips to do my swap Thursday. So the car stops on a dime and sticks to the road como pega de carpinteria.
  9. Izzy
    No Oggie, US cars don't do it, don't know why. But you can install an aftermarket part from Wilhelmi (sp?), look in the offers section. I do not have it but others in the forum do. Maybe someone who has it can chime in with their experience.
  10. Izzy
    Hombre, Yo tengo buena suerte con Kumho's. Had both summer and All seaons on my 99 from Kumho. But I also swap wheels to Falken RT615 for track days. But where I live, nunca nieve, not a lot of lluvia, and I don't drive too agressive on the road to need really high performance tires that badly. But if I lived in Europe.......
  11. Izzy
    13 to 14 sounds like some hard track driving. Using odometer and gas tank fill numbers (not the dash readout), I get 17-19 city, 20-26 highway. Depends on fun or cruising style driving
  12. Izzy
    Robbie, No parece bien, es mucho aceite que desaperece. You may be getting stalled for warranty. The only cars that I have ever heard burn that much oil are RX8s or older M3's. Izzy
  13. Izzy
    I know the world is full of stories like these, but do take it to an independent before you plop that kind of cash. So here is mine for this week. I had a code, P0740, transmission, that I could not figure out. Took it to the dealer, who didn't know but emailed Porsche. The answer the next day is "new transmission, $7000" for Tiptronic. I could not believe it, as it shifted fine, never had a CEL. Researched the code some more, and long story short purchased Pressure Regulator #4 (which could not be purchased alone according to the experts) and had it installed. Code gone, transmission is actually smoother and code gone. $205 for the part, $200 labor. Moral of the story, do the research or get a second opinion, unbiased. Sometimes the dealers can follow Porsche guidance, which in your case may be new engine. But others may help diagnose it differently. Izzy
  14. Izzy
    Most franchise type of autoparts stores (Autozone, etc) let you borrow their OBD reader to use in their parking lot. You can clear the codes for free with their unit if you don't have one.
  15. Izzy
    Skipp, Is there a sound, like grinding, when you press the button up or down? I had the same problem and it was the regulator. All in about $450 at Hendricks. To get the window up, I took a pair of pliers with a lot of duct tape around the jaws, and had someone press the button (from lowered position) to raise the window. Then grab that 10mm of glass with the pliers and pull up. At least the window will stay up. Izzy
  16. Izzy
    I really couldn't answer those, but all I can tell you is that connecting those two points with a jumper wire has worked for me for 25K miles, no problems. And if you ever want to disconnect, just pull the wire out of one of the points and you are done. I do that sometimes in tracks to tape the headlights and protect from debris.
  17. Izzy
    I have daylights running lights on my 99 by jumping into an empty slot on the fuse box in the cabin. I will take a picture tonight or see if I can find the link. All I did is put a small jumper wire between two fuses, one empty one not, and viola, you got the headlights on with the ignition on. Found it faster than I thought, courtesy of Toolpants. I could not find the connectors shown in the link, so just used a short (1.5" jumper wire from one location to the next. Works like a charm http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/mods/drl/
  18. Izzy
    The Eibach Pro-Kit is only 25-30 mm, sounds like same as the H&R. I would not do 2.5", I am too old to get out of the car then. I keep thinking about your problem, and a place to test the bounciness for me is at a local park, that has roadways with low and wide speed bumps. As I accelerated out of the speed bump, the rear wheels come off the bump and the suspension comes to play. The car goes down, and up only once. No bounce at all. Same with the front. Is that the same you are talking about? I know you can push on the body and see bounce, but that is more extreme bounce. Izzy
  19. Izzy
    Just a thought, but I paid about $250 in Ebay for the Eibachs and don't have any of the bouncy issues you guys are seeing. So the thought is, before going to the higher expense, for say $300 and 4 hours of your time you can install Eibachs and compare to H&K? Worse case you end up selling either spring on E-bay and have a 50% recovery. So your are out $150, imagine it was a bad meal at the Capital Grill on Brickell Ave. I can not tell you how different they are, just my experience with my 99 wiht 62K miles on the shocks and new springs. I think the Bilsteins are about $1500 Izzy
  20. Izzy
    What was that about great minds think alike.... Actually, a friend of mine was asking how far back to drive to get the tires on fully, and the idea about using the "waste" piece of wood was borned. I can open my door and look for position, but with the stop is less contortion to the aging spine. Cheers Izzy
  21. Izzy
    I built these ramps and have been using them for some time for oil changes, muffler changes, O2 sensor changes, etc. Can not remember where the idea came from, but it was not mine. They have worked well for me and I have had some requests for sizes, so here it is. As with any such item, this is a suggestion and using it is entirely at your own risk. Make sure the car does not roll forward if you back into the ramps. Ramps_for_easy_oil_change.pdf
  22. Izzy
    How old is your car and how many miles? Wondering if the easy stuff, like soft brake lines, could be the culprit. check them out or replace them with steel braided? The stock rubber ones can expand over time
  23. Izzy
    You can see how they come off in thid DIY. I have used John Deer hydraulic fluid for well over a year, without any problems. But Porsche fluid is the recommended. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6967
  24. Izzy
    The cables are in a ball joint, so simply push the cable part that connects to the car body (the ball) into the car, fingers ought to do it. The fluid may decay (lower viscocity) over time, small seepage, mechanical loss due to heat and wear. I am talking over years of operation. Most hydraulic systems need replenishment, nothing mechanical will be perfect sealed.
  25. Izzy
    The only thing I can think of is the fluid or the main motor for the pump being out. Where you able to close it? To get to the rear shocks and remove them, the mechanic has to put the top on the midway postion, and remove the rear carpet cover from the convertable stowage area. All the convertible components are exposed and yes, could have something to do with the work or potential of someone inadvertly leaning ro pushing the wrong thing. From my own observations, when I did my suspension work, I had to be careful on what to lean on or push when removing the nuts from the bolt tower.
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