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Izzy

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Everything posted by Izzy

  1. I had the same in my 1999 radio. According to the Becker US person I spoke with, the only solution is to get a new face plate. I didn't ask the price, but figure it wouldn't be worth it. If you go forth, and get a price, let us know. Thanks
  2. If all you are doing is replacing the two rubber knobs, all you got to do is pull them off. A small plastic spatula help get it started for me, but then is an interference fit, pull out the old one, push in the new one.
  3. They are standard 1 1/2 inch PVC fittings. I painted the top black, it blends in with the airbox.
  4. Just sent you a PM with the relay location for the flasher. See if this works.
  5. Did you notice right before they stopped working if the turn signals where flashing slower or faster than usual? Often times you can tell the relay is about to go by some erratic behavior like that.
  6. This modification is for the airbox, an inexpensive alternative to the $230 ones out there. You will need the following to start: 1. Schnell air intake kit (Ebay $99 from VertexAuto) 2. PVC pipe threaded adapter (Lowes $0.89) 3. PVC threaded cap (Lowes $1.29) The Schnell kit uses the smooth silicone orange hose, and leaves the air box muffler in. To plug the muffler, there is an orange cap and a black plug that covers the cap. The modification will not use those, but remove the muffler altogether and use the threaded cap and adapter to seal the hole in the muffler. Remove the air box and place on a flat surface, remove the hose and the top of the box. Turn the top upside down and remove the muffler by removing the three screws Simply pull the muffler box out or push on the protruding pipe on top of the box I also removed the MAF plastic screen at this stage. I leave up to you to do the same. If you want to do it, simply use needle nose pliers and pull it out. **I replaced the stock air filter with a K&N for improved flow and cleanliness.** Next, insert the threaded pipe fitting into the underside of the top of the box. It should be almost a perfect fit. If it is too "snug", look for non-circle parts on the fitting part that a simple utility knife can remove. Now thread the cap onto the protruding pipe fitting threads on top of the housing. You may need pliers to make it a tight fit. Must go all the way in to seal the box. Finally re-assemble the unit and place back in the car. Don't forget to attach the MAF connector. The sound when you test the car will be a little bit louder, fuller if you will. The throttle response a bit quicker too. You may paint the cap black, or find it in black PVC in a plumbing store. Have fun and save some bucks.
  7. Sunset was $98 (plus their fee). Dealer was one hour, or $105 plus tax in Charlotte, NC
  8. Final word on this, did get the new FOB's from our friends in Sunset, and had them programmed by the dealer. Works like new.
  9. Thank you guys, nothing worked, so off to buy a new FOB from Sunset. Tried new batteries, upside batteries, chicken legs, voodoo dolls, accupuncture, etc. What is amazing is how the main key and spare key remotes both stopped working within a week of each other. The spare I only use on the weekends. Reminds me of some of the "out of toner" conditions in printers I used to design for certain company, we had this "time to die" chip that will force customers to get more of that black gold powder.
  10. Has anyone else had similar problems with the remote key FOB. I have a 99 Cab, and the both key remotes stopped working within days of each other. The batteries are fine, the light blinks on the remotes, but wont lock or unlock the car anymore. Thank you Izzy
  11. Not sure about warranty, since I don't have one. I ordered today, will post some pics and information once I get it. It was only $99 on Ebay
  12. Has anyone seen this Schnell cold air intake kit? Does it look like the Fabspeed? I have never seen the Fabspeed but was going to do the "orange cap" mod next weekend.
  13. Look in the 996 DIY section. I did some research and the Pennzoil ATF is crossreference to replace the Esso ATF LT 71141. I called them twice and talked to two different tech reps who repeated the same information. Loren has the number, sorry I deleted it. The Pennzoil website has 1-800-990-9811. The quart is $2.99 at PepBoys, and I used about 6.5 (including the tiny spill) I posted instructions on the fluid and filter change, just did it this past weekend. It is about a 2 hour job, and at 47K miles it made a significant difference in the smoothness of the shifting. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6203
  14. View this tutorial Tiptronic Transmission Service The Tiptronic transmission has a special tool for fluid. First you have to purchase the tool (expensive) or make one (inexpensive). The tool is the V.A.G.1924, runs about $300. You need the following tools and parts to start: 1. ATF fill tool 2. 7 (US) Quarts of Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF 3. Torque wrench for 60 ft lbs 4. Torque wrench for 7.5 ft lbs (90 in lbs) 5. 17 mm allen bit 6. 8 mm allen bit 7. Torx 27 bit 8. Temperature meter with probe. Author Izzy Category Carrera (996) - Maintenance Submitted 08/27/2005 06:17 PM
  15. The Tiptronic transmission has a special tool for fluid. First you have to purchase the tool (expensive) or make one (inexpensive). The tool is the V.A.G.1924, runs about $300. You need the following tools and parts to start: 1. ATF fill tool 2. 7 (US) Quarts of Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF 3. Torque wrench for 60 ft lbs 4. Torque wrench for 7.5 ft lbs (90 in lbs) 5. 17 mm allen bit 6. 8 mm allen bit 7. Torx 27 bit 8. Temperature meter with probe. I used an Oregon Scientific with a probe that has a 10 ft cord. 9. Porsche part 986 397 016 00 Paper gasket (Call Sunset Porsche, great guys) 10. Porsche part 986 307 403 00 ATF filter 11. Porsche part 986 397 016 00 rubber ring for fill plug 12. Kitty liter, you will spill 13. Socket set 14. Plenty of rags 15. Oil catch pan 16. Safety goggles First we assemble the filling tool out of parts you can find in Lowes or Home Depot type of homestores: 1. Hudson 1 gallon tank ($9.95) 2. Barbed fittings and 8 ft of tygon 3/8 clear hose. 3. 1/4 inch shut off valve - brass 4. 12 inch of flexible copper tube, 1/4" 5. Assemble as shown below and bend the tube per the picture. The steps are easy to follow: 1. Lift car off the ground and on jack stands. I need 16 inches on the stands to be comfortable. 2. Slide oil catch pan under fluid pan and remove drain plug with 8 mm allen bit 3. Remove the cross arm that traverses the fluid pan. Loosen only one bolt, remove the other. It will be easier for the next step and you can prop the arm to help catch the pan when the bolts are removed. 4. When the fluid has drained, secure drain plug back in and torque to 30 ft lbs. 5. Using the Torx 27 bit, remove all the screws crosswise. Move the cross arm out of the way as needed, but put back in a place where the pan will not fall. THE PAN STILL HAS FLUID in it, be careful 6. Remove pan carefully. The green gasket should still be attached to it. 7. Remove the two screws that hold the filter in place. Make sure the oil catch pan is underneath, the filter will have fluid as well. Remove filter. 8. Thinly coat some petroleum jelly on the suction collar of the ATF filter and install filter 9. Install new filter and screw the two screws to a torque of 4.5 ft lbs. 10. Empty the filter pan into the oil catch pan with all the waste oil. Place the filter pan on a flat surface and remove the gasket. 11. Set the plastic guard cap so the two windows are facing sideways. The holes will be used later for the fill tube and for the temperature probe. Notice how large they are. 12. Use the rags to clean the pan and the magnets in the pan. Set the magnets back to their original location. Here is a nice clean pan and magnets. 13. Place the new gasket on the pan. I used petroleum jelly thin coat on a few places to hold it in place. 14. Fit ATF pan back into transmission, tighten the screws crosswise to 7.5 ft lbs. It may be convenient to use the cross arm as a resting place while you re-attach the pan. 15. Remove the fill plug with the 17 mm allen key. Replace the ring gasket with the new one. 16. Fill the pressure tank with ATF fluid, make sure the valve is closed. Pump the tank to provide the pressure to move the fluid. The clear hose will show the red fluid filling it, and also you will see it running later. 17. Insert the "hook" end of the copper tube into the fill hole, and hook it into one of the holes mentioned before. Insert the temperature probe into the other hole, make sure it is secured. 18. Open the valve and let the ATF fluid begin to flow. You will have to add more fluid to the tank and keep it pumped. When the fluid begins to escape through the hole. It will drip, so close the valve. 19. Start the car. Open the valve to let more fluid into the ATF pan. Keep it pumped. Look at the temperature display on your probe. The temperature should not exceed 45 C. It begins at room temperature, so you got a few minutes. 20. Move the selector to position "P" and let idle for a a few seconds. When the fluid begins to emerge again from the filler tube, close the filling valve. 21. The engine should still be idling, keep an eye on the temp probe. With the brake pedal on, change the transmission through each position, holding the position for 10 seconds. 22. Open fill valve again until ATF fluid escapes from the hole. Make sure the temperature is higher than 30 C, and should be around 40C by now. Remove temperature probe and filler tube. 23. Replace the filler plug and torque to 59 ft lbs. 24. Turn engine off, and take car out for a test. :drive: 25. You are done, check for leaks, clean the spills (cat litter), and enjoy some smooth shifting.
  16. The final fix was just the hydraulic fluid in the motor reservoir for the convertible top. Should have done it myself.... But now it works perfectly.
  17. Just finished this TSB and got some pictures to go with the words. This is not stand alone, but use them with the TSB. 1. Don't forget to disconnect the tray lock connector before pulling the console out. Remeber to lay back the passenger seat for easier removal or console. 2. Use the T10 torx screw driver or bit to remove the 8 screws holding the leather top to the plastic cover. 3. Here it is removed, and now the cover looks like without it. 4. One picture above, keep hand for re-assembly. The two phillips screws need to be removed next. Remove the cover from console, and use a pin tool (Sears sells a set for $10) to knock out pin holding the hinge together. 5. Use a small handsaw to remove the plastic that remains from the old hinge. Sand as needed for smooth, but don't go crazy, the new hinge will cover it. 6. Insert the U brackets from kit in this location 7. Next set the metal hinge in to position. 8. Next, I used a small spring clamp to hold hinge in place while drilling hole with 5/32" bit (same as 4 mm). The bit should go through the metal as well as the plastic. 9. Follow the TSB to insert the rivet. I purchased from Lowes a Rivet tool for $16.95 shown below. insert the long part of the rivet into the tool and close the handle. That is all you got to do. 10. Re-assembly is the reverse. Push the pin back in, insert the spring, insert the nylon strap, and screw in place. Partial assembly below for reference. Good luck, hope it helps Izzu
  18. Just finished this TSB and got some pictures to go with the words. This is not stand alone, but use them with the TSB. 1. Don't forget to disconnect the tray lock connector before pulling the console out. Remeber to lay back the passenger seat for easier removal or console. 2. Use the T10 torx screw driver or bit to remove the 8 screws holding the leather top to the plastic cover. 3. Here it is removed, and now the cover looks like without it. 4. One picture above, keep hand for re-assembly. The two phillips screws need to be removed next. Remove the cover from console, and use a pin tool (Sears sells a set for $10) to knock out pin holding the hinge together. 5. Use a small handsaw to remove the plastic that remains from the old hinge. Sand as needed for smooth, but don't go crazy, the new hinge will cover it. 6. Insert the U brackets from kit in this location 7. Next set the metal hinge in to position. 8. Next, I used a small spring clamp to hold hinge in place while drilling hole with 5/32" bit (same as 4 mm). The bit should go through the metal as well as the plastic. 9. Follow the TSB to insert the rivet. I purchased from Lowes a Rivet tool for $16.95 shown below. insert the long part of the rivet into the tool and close the handle. That is all you got to do. 10. Re-assembly is reverse of removal. The pic below shows the parts in partial assembly
  19. Do you have the torque it should go to? I believe I have a similar situation. Where in the picture if the cover? Thank you
  20. And it rained, and it did not worked. The top continues to operate intermittently. If I "fiddle" with the microswitches shown above, I can eventually get it to work every other time. So I decided to blame it on demonic possesion, and take it to the dealer for a full exorcism. As soon as I find out what they tell me, I will try to talk to the mechanic for details and post it here for anyone else who needs it. Sometimes, the dealer is the only option....... I will be selling some securities this week to cover the costs.
  21. Drilled the holes to collect some Asbestos, running short on my supply of carcinogens. Seriously, didn't even think about it, just read some other threads that people drilled them, and followed like a blind sheep. In retrospect, wasted time as I am only using them for the track. But I showed my wife how clever I was by drilling the holes, so don't you guys go and spoil that for me now.... Cheers
  22. I had similar problems. In the end, replacing the MAF did the trick. But before: Remove battery power for a few minutes to reset computers back to factory standard (make sure you got the radio code). Check the engine air filter and replace if needed. How old are the plugs, how many miles? Replace (see DYI in this site) since they are easy and inexpensive to do. The last one would be the idle potentiometer, rarely they fail. Most likely sounds like Mass Air Flow Sensor, easy to replace. Same symptons in most cars just like you described. The lack of code is puzzling, but no system is perfect Good luck
  23. Just changed to Pagid Oranges for track day next weekend. A question I have is regarding the spring that holds the pads in place, and how to position it since the caliper inside dimension is 71mm, and the spring is only 54mm. If the spring moves just a bit, it will rest on the pad and not on the steel part of the pad. In this close up, you can see what I am referring too. Any problems with using stock springs on Pagids? Not sure if anyone had had this issue. Drilling of the holes into the pads for the wear sensors was pretty easy. Thank you Izzy
  24. Got it, I think. The top was up, but not fully locked. So here is the solution. You may want to see TSB 6141, which I was in the process of doing. Figure 3 shows to insert an allen key and turn the screw 3 revolutions anticlockwise. The way I fixed my top was, with the top up, squeeze into the same spot as TSB 6141 calls for, remove the plastic plugs, use a mirror and flaslight to find the screwhead with an allen wrench. Then turn the screw CLOCKWISE. Repeat for each side one revolution at a time, and tried closing the top. At 3 revolutions, situation resolved. With top open, added another 1/2 revolution clockwise and tested top. Works perfectly now. Of course, it will wait until another rainy day to stop working on the down position, but for now, it is back to normal. I am thinking this quick check should be added to any other top operation malfunction, since there are no costs and it can save you all some time. Thank you Izzy
  25. Also removed the relay, tapped them on the floor, top worked once. Sometimes on the "down cycle" the windows start to come down, then nothing. Can it be the latch switch? Easy checking on it?
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