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jamesanderson84

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Everything posted by jamesanderson84

  1. jamesanderson84
    Just did this job yesterday. Not easy - but not too difficult if you take it steady. Learnings: I dropped the mufflers. Cant see how you'd do the job without dropping them. It added some time and fiddling - but it made it doable versus being a swearfest. Be careful about the extension bars you connect. The middle tube on the driver side and the rearmost tube on the passenger side (US spec) align with the muffler brackets and I ended up with a combination that could not be removed. The extension bar was tight to the spark plug socket and it took some ingenuity and swearing to get them apart. I installed NGK plugs. I removed Berus which looked to be in good shape. Here's to the good news - the difference is HUGE. The engine is quieter - the power delivery is smoother and much more even. It makes it a much better driving experience.
  2. jamesanderson84
    Just to close this thread (at least for now) - after I made these posts the top started working fine again - closing the last 2 inches without trouble - so the mystery remains as to what was wrong - but it fixed itself so I've stopped trying to solve the mystery....
  3. jamesanderson84
    First time performing a brake job, ever... Andy I did my first brake job ever on a 996 a few weeks ago. It was VERY easy. Follow the instructions in the posts here and use some common sense and you'll have no problems. Hardest part was jockeying the jack and the axle stand around to do all four wheels. But there's even a post here for that! The actual brake work was very straightforward.
  4. jamesanderson84
    My C4 got sluggish at around 59K. Air filter change and cleaning of the throttle body had a major impact. I was surprised how much difference they made.
  5. jamesanderson84
    The motor closed it the rest of the way - but it did not "feel right" - it seemed like there was still some resistance.
  6. jamesanderson84
    Well - more fun last night trying to resolve this problem. When I opened the top the same problem happened - stopped about two inches away from being complete. I found that the plastic shield that is connected to the rearmost strut on the driver's side and carries a wire had become disconnected from the strut - but reattaching the plastic shield made no difference. I looked at all the little wings and flaps and they all look fine, i.e., the left and right sides are in the same position, and there is nothing obviously fouling the clamshell. I joggled the clamshell a little and did manage to get it to close - but only once. I'm nervous about too much joggling seeing so interconnected this whole system is. So...I'm now thinking that some mechanical resistance has developed that the clamshell motor is not able to overcome - but this does not seem to jibe with the fact that the clamshell closes fine when going into the "roof closed" position.
  7. jamesanderson84
    The plastic latch cover is present and flips up when the hood is closing - so I dont think its that. I agree that it might be one of the little flaps on the hood mechanisms - its not clear what position they should be in as the hood closes - does anyone have a picture of the right positions? I'm concerned if I start playing with them I could do more damage than help.
  8. jamesanderson84
    2000 C4 Cab. I've owned the car for three months and have had no issues with the convertible top operation. Yesterday I went to open it and everything worked fine - except the clamshell won't close the last two inches onto the deck. There does not appear to be anything physically in the way - there are no odd noises or grinding - it just stops. I can close the top again without problem and the clamshell closes properly when the hood is going into the closed position. I've searched the forums and I can't find anybody describing this problem exactly. I've read the posts about topping up the hydraulic fluid - and based on car age this is a candidate - but I read in one post that the clamshell is driven by a motor not by the hydraulic pump anyway. Would appreciate any pointers - this feels like something very stupid or easy to fix - so obvious advice is welcome.
  9. jamesanderson84
    Just did my front and rear brake pads this weekend using the information in this guide - really straighforward job that any mechanically inclined owner could undertake without worry. I could not get the pads back with the pliers (could not get enough leverage on them) but used a carpenter's G clamp and a rag to protect the caliper paint and it worked like a charm. The brake wear sensors were a bit fiddly - especially at the front where they were starting to get worn down. I ended up removing the pads with the sensors attached and then they came out no problem once the pads were clear. I adjusted the handbrake, blew all the dust out of the rotors, cleaned the calipers off and cleaned the inside of the wheels while I was at it. Total time about five hours. I agree with others that the hardest part of the job is all the jacking and axle stand manipulation. Thanks for all the info here. Really empowering to someone who has not owned a Porsche before. Next job - changing the spark plugs....
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