smak

many thanks!!!!!

Thanks for the info. Wonder if you have the clips p/n. I may need to order a few before breaking it. This design is a bit scary.

After 2 months of using, no sign of leaking for mine.

May I ask if anyone know how to remove the Roof rack rail cover?

The Hydraulic oil reservior located right behind the middle of the rear seat. To access it, you need first to open the top to a " service " position ( half way ). Then detach the 2 cables from the soft top. Last remove the interior cover by pile out a plastic screws. Note that the hydraulic oil is not the same as the Power steering fluid. If you want to check any leak from the cylinders, it is very easy. Just remove the rear speaker panel ( 1 screw ) and you can see the cyclinder.

On the Cluster. But my steering column doesn't have the " Operating lever for OB Computer ". The owner manual refers to the change with that function only. I can change the Climate display by press both Recycle air and the + button, but no lucj for the cluster. thanks,

I knew that this may be a stupid question. Anyone know how to display a Degree Celsius ( Instead of F. )temperature reading? The manual doesn't provide any information. thanks,

I bought a 99 C4 carb. 3 months ago with 80Kmiles. It had a rebuilt transmission and several service records. Plastic window replaced, but not a perfect job. It is always a gamble to purchase a 10years old car. You have to leverage the risk vs. the deal, and be ready for the worse. The recent 996 price has been dropping susbtainally in the past months. To me, it was a good timing to take the advantage of. After 3 months of daily driving, I have replaced the battery ( weak start ), top hydraulic cyclinder ( oil leak ) and oxygen sensor ( P1115). With the detail repair manual which you can download and the support of this web site, I will total do it again if I come across the same decision. This is my first Porsche and I just love it. Next one got to be a TT. I believe that the number of total engine failures is well below 1% of the 3.4 cars sold. Of course, if it happened to you, you would be very vocal about it, hence the high profile that this rare (but costly) problem attracts. Similarly, the problem with the RMS affected a small proportion of the 3.4 cars produced but, again, people do not expect this sort of problem with a Porsche so if it affects them they tend to complain and post to the forums about it. Generally people post and complain about problems much more than about how good and reliable their car is - so rare issues get blown out of proportion. Now, a 1999 car is 10 years old and personally I would be much more interested in the overall condition, number of owners & documented service history (which this car seems to have). I would also trust your gut feel - if something doesn't seem right, walk away - there are plenty of other cars out there. At 95k km I would budget for a clutch in the near future.

Confirmed. The oil leak was caused by the hydraulic cylinder for the convertible top.

Do you have a part number? Did you ever find this part number and price? They cost around $800.00 each. 1 cylinder fits both side.... no right or left.....what a surprise :D

I guess that would be the answer for mine too. The cyclinder sits right above the water collection pan, and there is a linkage leading outside of the car. That's exactly where I had the leakage. Do you happen to know the Hydraulic cyclinder part number?

Hi, I have a leak around the wheel well and my top just top working. Is that where the oil leak for your car? thanks,

Oh no. The convertible top can't open today. It could be the e-brake sensor or may be due to the " strange oil " leak. Keep my finger cross nothing serious. Weather is so good in Toronto. I am missing it... .

It was quite difficult to check the power steering oil level, but I suspected that was it after comparing the oil drop on a white piece of paper with the Hydraulic oil. They look almost the same color. If the leak was water base, the stain should dry on the card board overnight, but it didn't. I will discard the possibility of coolant for now. I will try to follow the hydraulic line to see where it lead to. thanks,

I realized that my charger had an option for 2A charging current for that purpose. I will consider charge it up once a month during the winter time. Beside, I am planning to install a battery protector soon. Maintenance free does not mean it shouldn't be maintained (ha ha ha)...Typically MF means there is enough electrolyte to maintain the proper performance for the life of the battery. On some of the MF you can still add water (distilled), but it appears this is not an option for the Optima. It is a battery and will lose power if there is any drain...so the maintainer will keep the battery well charged while the car sits and no alternator to charge it...It is better to maintain a MF battery with a slow trickle charge...to prevent gas build up.

At first, I thought it was water came out from the waste drainage hole. But after a full day of sunny drive, it was obvious that these weren't water, they are oil. Question is what type of oil. The position of the leak is in front of the engine, and I didn't see any motor oil leaking from the engine when I jacked up the car. The color of the oil is quite clear and carry a very light green color. I suspected that it could be hydraulic oil. Any thought would be helpful?

Thanks Loren. The switch in my fan mod is not to correct a non functioning fan system or relay. Fixing the relay fault is quite simple and should be done with new relays when necessary. The fan mod is to turn on the HIGH speed fans at will and at any temperature. Or you can eliminate the switch altogether and have the high speed fans come on below a certain engine speed, vehicle speed, etc. As long as your car is NOT a C4S (C4S uses a different resistor) the part number is: 996.616.101.00 Series Resistor -- US MSRP $90.42

May I ask if you have the Part number for the Ballast resistor? The switch in my fan mod is not to correct a non functioning fan system or relay. Fixing the relay fault is quite simple and should be done with new relays when necessary. The fan mod is to turn on the HIGH speed fans at will and at any temperature. Or you can eliminate the switch altogether and have the high speed fans come on below a certain engine speed, vehicle speed, etc.

They are just press fit. Should be very easy to push out from the back. I repainted it and rewrapped the cover with new leather.

Once or twice a week. Maintenance free? It may be. But, what about the charge? That's what the battery maintainer will do for you. Keep your battery very healthy. How ofter do you drive your car?

I thought Optima battery should be maintaince free. no?

I am using 34/78. Better fit will be 34R with a base mount. http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/index.html#redspecs Thanks for posting the solution to that fairly common problem. I think it is related to the increased resistance in the wires when they get warmer. How many Cold Cranking Amperes and how much Reserve Capacity does your Optima battery have? Regards, Maurice.

Car started no problem if it sat overnight. Once it warmed up and make several stops, the crank got weaker and weaker. I was planning to change the starter but decided to replace the battery to an Optima Red top first. After changed, it started strong everytime.

Thanks, Got it!