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useridchallenged

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About useridchallenged

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    http://www.TheAudioArchive.com
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  • From
    Burlingame, California
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2005 C2 with PASM
  • Former cars
    2000 BMW 740i Sport
    1999 Porsche C2 with LSD, TC and more
    1992 Mazda MX-5 (sheer lightweight handling fun)
  1. I was equally surprised that the dealer didn't mention the remanufactured engine. I finally figured this out on my own through a lot of questions about warranty. We'll see what the cost of the remanufactured engine will be - I learn tomorrow.
  2. Attached are pictures of the damage... 1st pic: hole in cover is visible in the bottom left of the image 2nd pic: close-up of hole 3rd pic: seized oil scavenging pump 4th pic: close-up of seized pump 5th pic: failed pump drive
  3. Here's a summary of the problem from the dealer (2005 997 C2, 70k miles, 3.5 months out of warranty): As I mentioned on the phone, during our road test we’ve discovered the engine had a major oil leak from the valve cover. We then lifted the vehicle and found a hole in the valve cover. (I took pictures and put a quarter to relate the size of the hole) We then removed the engine from the vehicle to further diagnose the problem. We have discovered the oil scavenging pump for bank 1 has seized. The pump has a drive that goes into a notch on the end of the camshaft. The drive and notch have broken into pieces from the pump seizing. There is also damage to the timing chain and chain guides. To repair, we would need to replace the cylinder head due to the cam bores/bearings are machined and center cut to match. We would need to split the engine case to replace the damaged timing chain. The total parts for this repair alone cost $5500.00 and the 30 hours of labor is $4950.00, making the total estimate $10,450.00. Anyone else ever see such a failure on their 997-1?
  4. A few price benchmarks... B+ harness replace = $120 part, 4 hours labor ($165/hour at my dealer). Alternator replace = $1050 (parts and labor). Rumor has it that the B+ harness requires removal of a manifold.
  5. 4-6k kms per year is nothing for the filters or the oil. I dry year-round, so I haven't given winter storage any thought. I might be concerned about water vapor condensing in the engine during storage and mixing with the oil. For that reason alone, I'd change the oil at the end of winter storage. But I haven't done any experiments to test this theory of water condensation, and water condensation during the winter will have a lot to do with the temperature and humidity of your garage.
  6. It is my understanding that the P72 designation is a package that was used on later MY99 cars, and is equal to M220, M222, and M224. In other words, the P72 package includes LSD, TC and ABD.
  7. I was frustrated with many of the opinions on oil changes, so I decided to do my own experiment and figure the oil change issues out for myself, independent of all the opinions. So I did a lot of experiments with synthetic motor oils (Mobil 1, Amsoil) by using the services of Analysts Inc. (Oakland, California) who analyze motor for aircraft and industrial vehicles, where engine life is critical. They report the oil chemistry, viscosity, particulates, metals in the oil, presence of water, and so on. I treat my auto engines like I do an aircraft engine - lots of careful monitoring and maintenance. What I learned after 70,000 miles with a Mazda Miata (I ran this experiment from 1993 to 1998 before I had my Porsche, and checked the oil every 3,000 miles): (1) Synthetic motor oil is very stable. The oil can easily go 15,000 miles and still have excellent viscosity, PH and other chemical properties. (2) Contaminants are the real issue that drives oil changes with either synthetic or regular motor oil. I found that changing the air filters and oil filters had more impact on the motor oil than changing the oil. Because I wanted to check the properties of the oil after 15,000 miles, I had to more aggressively change the filters in order to keep the oil clean enough to go 15,000 miles. The result for me - I change out oil and oil/air filters every 7,500 miles. If I were on a tight budget, I would consider checking/changing only the oil/air filter every 7,500, and change the oil at 15,000. If you drive in a dusty environment (dirt roads, near building construction, etc.), you will want to change your filters more frequently. In summary - keep your oil clean. Dust gets in the oil and it acts like an abrasive, wearing at the components in your engine. The only reason to change oil more frequently is to get the abrasive contaminants out. But changing your air/oil filters will accomplish the same thing. Synthetic motor oil is amazing - 15,000 miles is no problem for the oil. But again, the problem is not the oil, it's the contaminants in the oil. Next experiment (someday) - test the oil right after Track day to see how synthetic oil is affected by hard driving and high heat. Now for an opinion - I always change my oil before and after tracking the car. More habit than based in science. -------------------------------------------------------- 1999 C2 Arctic Silver, 6-speed, LSD, TC 2000 BMW 740i Sport, silver ("German Impala" for cruising with the family)
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