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Posts posted by Harness

  1. Just wanted to chime in here with my experience, and what ended up being the issue. I first had the problem about two years ago, filled up with gas one day and the car (2008 997 Porsche Carrera S Manual ...detail for search engines) wouldn't start. Called my indie whose shop was close by, and he came over and figured out that giving it some gas would get it to start up (rough though).


    it was an intermittent problem for a while, and only expressed itself during colder months (avg temp below 70). It didn't matter if the car was warm or cold, but ambient air temperature seemed to be a factor with it not starting after fueling. Over the next two years I had my indie take a closer look based on what we found in the forums with each annual maintenance visit. He did a smoke test and replaced some valve one time and a solenoid the other, but the problem was still present. 


    In recent months (during the pandemic and winter months so I wasn't driving much other than weekend cruising if the weather was nice) the problem got significantly worse. It was a very difficult to get running after fueling, and ran extremely rough (dying frequently) for the first couple of miles. Then, it would be fine until the next fill up.


    I was concerned enough that I decided to take it to the dealer, literally telling them I didn't want it back until they filled it up with gas and successfully started it. I plan on keeping this car for a very long time, and I was at the point where I wanted it fixed and didn't care too much about the cost.


    They gave it to one of their guys that had been around for a long time. He troubleshot it down to the "Tank Vent Line," part # 997-110-129-00. Here's his note to me:


    "Found that the vent valve line is stuck open. The tank vent valve is underneath bank 1 intake. The alternator and the intake must be removed to replace."


    That was about $950 in labor from the dealer, plus $468 for part. Well worth it to me at this point.


    I got it back, drove it ton, and then filled it up when I was about halfway through the tank. Started right up just like it was supposed to.


    Hope this helps someone in the future.

  2. Just realized I didn't put in all of the details. One of my idler pulleys had also failed... I ended up replacing all three of them and the belt, and that "probably" solved the low oil pressure warning (probably, as that never came back but I only drove 3-4 miles after that point). The squealing returned after the pulleys were replaced and once the engine was warm. At that point I was properly spooked and had the car towed to my mechanic, and he diagnosed the Oil/Air separator. Interestingly, he did that by removing the oil cap which caused the noise to stop. He put his hand over it and noted a high level of suction. Once he got the separator out it was clear it was failing.

  3. I’ve discovered an oil drip from the back of my car. This is immediately following having the Oil/Air Separator and all pulley’s  replaced so I’m thinking it’s likely related. Work was done at a trusted shop. This is a 2008 Carrera C2S with about 89000 miles on it. I took several photos and circled where the oil is dripping from. These were taken after the car had been sitting in my garage for about 36 hours, and the oil level is measuring as better than half.


    Anyone have any thoughts?





  4. While I was driving, I got an “Oil Pressure Too Low” warning and the car was making a squealing noise. Oil level checked ok and it wasn’t leaking anything. Video attached. 2008 C2S with 89,000 miles. Just had oil changed a 3-4 months ago at a professional, PCA trusted shop. Any idea what this is? Car will sit where it’s at and I’ll have it towed next week, but curious if anyone has thoughts or similar experience. 

  5. To close the loop on this, the original problem was that after filling up my 2008 Carrera S (997.1), the car would have a really rough start (I’d have to give it some gas) and it would eventually roar to life. After about a month of having this problem inconsistently, I got a check engine light, which turned out to be P0455. I replaced the gas cap (it was old anyway) and no joy.


    I did some nosing around myself, but didn’t spot anything obvious. I was short on time and patience, so I took it to a trusted shop. They did a smoke test and found nothing, so they did a manual test of a couple of parts.


    The problem part turned out to be the Change Over valve (996.605.123.01), which is now part # H72031281. Cheap part, not too terribly hard to replace (not that I did it but that’s what my mechanic told me)... but a pain to diagnose.


  6. If they are not exactly the same I believe they are very similar. I'm going to dive in to that section of the car this weekend and see what I see. From everything I've read so far those components seem to be the most likely cause of the CEL. The only thing I hadn't found so far was first-hand experience with that start-up issue after filling up, so thank you very much for the feedback. I'll follow up with what I find.

  7. My car (2008 Carrera S, Manual, 85k miles) threw a check engine light a few days ago, with the P0455 error code. I’ve read a few threads on this forum about it and the feedback Loren gave, but I wanted to share one weird symptom and see if that may point at something specific.


    Every time I fill my car with gas (and this started a few weeks ago, I fill up weekly), the car won’t start. It cranks with gusto, but no joy. I have to give it gas to get it to turn over (and then it roars to life). This only occurs after filling up (and no issues with the actual fill up). Once it starts, everything is really back to normal until I fill up again. 


    So, I was wondering if anyone else has seen that particular symptom and if that may point to some specific cause of P0455. I did replace my gas cap this week after the error first appeared (it needed to be replaced anyway), but that didn’t solve anything.


    On the bright side, when it threw the error code I took a look in the engine bay I noticed my belt had a bad split down the middle. So, I replaced it this morning and avoided a much a worse problem!

  8. To close this out, I replaced the belt today. This was a really easy job. Just needed a breaker bar with a 24mm socket (for the tensioner), a screwdriver to remove the air box from the throttle body, and a pair of needle nose pliers (which made removing the Mass Air Flow sensor easier).


    While I had the belt off, I spun everything (that was supposed to) to ensure they behaved properly (found a YouTube video), basically, they shouldn’t spin freely but almost immediately stop due to resistance (makes sense when you think about it as they power different things).


  9. Coolant Pipe Replacement Detailed Instructions

    I recently replaced the coolant pipes in my car. I needed to do the job myself because there was simply no way I was going to shell out anywhere from $1500 to $3500 in labor to have it done by the dealership or an independent shop. Plus, having read about the job, I knew they would be tearing through a ton of stuff and I really feared the "oh, it also needs this" scam. I did a LOT of research on the various forums before undertaking this job. Reading and printing out anything I thought was


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  10. Hoping someone can help out a bit. I am missing the cover that goes over the jump start terminal (upper driver's side) on my engine and need the part number. This piece seems like it would be #14 on the attached diagram, but the description isn't helpful and the diagram doesn't really even look right. I've attached a photo showing where the part goes on my engine as well. I was hoping someone could actually look at the piece on their car and let me know the part number stamped on it.

    My dealer wasn't 100% positive and didn't have a used Cayenne on the lot to eyeball. They thought there could be a chance the cover might just be included with the larger driver side engine cover.

    Thanks in advance!



  11. Just throwing my two cents in... My Brake Workshop light came on about four weeks ago, and I replaced the pads myself with the Hawk CPS pads after about a week and a half. This was the first time I had ever attempted replacing brake pads and it was WAY easier than I expected it to be (with the exception of removing that pin, I wailed on that thing forever before it finally budged).

    I absolutely hated the Porsche OEM pads throwing hard to remove black dust all over my gorgeous 20's, so I went with Hawk this time. My wheels have stayed nice and clean for two weeks now and I really have no complaints at all about them. They brake just as well, I haven't noticed any increase in noise, and everything fit great.

    They were a lot cheaper than the OEM ones, and doing the job myself it only cost about $25 for the sensors and $125 for the pads... much, much better than what I paid last time.

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