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bobmacd44
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About bobmacd44
- Birthday 10/31/1944
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I did not see how to get the connector off the back of the airbag. I tired but did not want to force it. It was not obvious how to get it off.
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After consulting with electrical engineer, I decided that cutting two wires and splicing was a workable solution and I preferred to have the new airbag frame. The wires do not move relative to the other components within the frame, so I was not terribly worried about abrasion of wires. I used butt splices size 16-22. See attached pictures. I followed other post 28-horn-problem for disassembly procedure and was careful to disconnect battery. Repair went smoothly and so far appears to have solved
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Attached is picture of connector. It has four wires going into it. Two from center hub of airbag and two that can be disconnected
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Thanks again Loren. I If anyone reads this and has idea how to remove the wires to replace the turning frame, please let me know.
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Thanks Loren. I saw that post and that is what led me to horn problem being the worn airbag frame bushings. I decided to go with replacement of frame, but then have found problem that is similar to problem mentioned in other posts, namely that the grey, multi-wire connector between the airbag and steering wheel will not release from its clip. The female clip appears to be attached to a grey sliding plastic disk inside the steering mechanism. Maybe this is why dealer wants to replace entire steering mechanism as stated in other post. I wonder if I can cut the three wires and splice back together once I replace the frame? Maybe I am better just going with the black gasket material or finding "O" rings solution but some people appear to have been able to replace frame which I would prefer.
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I have 1999 996 with 100k miles. The horn started sounding during braking. I went to forum and found problem which is worn bushings in the air bag retaining frame. I purchased new frame for $101.25 from Pelican and tried to replace it. I successfully removed the two #30 torx bolts from back of wheel and the four retaining screws holding the frame. There are three wire connections from airbag to inside of steering wheel. I successfully removed the two that were simple clips but could not remove the plastic clip in the middle of the steering wheel. There was a tab on top that seemed to be holding the clip into its connector. I pried it up and it broke off, but I still could not get the clip out. It still seems to be catching on something inside the clip housing. Is there a secret to getting the clip out?
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Thanks for suggestion on fuses. I just changed them out and no improvement. Strange. Getting power from switch to the two fuses and yet both lights are out. Is there anything else that can cause both not to fire. Loren had suggested bad battery, but I checked it 3 months ago and seemed fine and even with battery charger on the lights do not work. Maybe something like charge regulator, if there is such a thing?? Maybe should just try to go back to stock. I had understood that the HID bulbs had really long life and unlikely both to fail at same time, but may be worth a try. I just tried putting back in stock bulb and disconnecting HID kit and bulb worked. So either something wrong with kit (both lights unlikely) or not generating enough juice to fire Xeon which appears to be common problem in other posts. Perhaps bad contact somewhere along the line.
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I replaced ignition switch and it solved the wiper and heater problem but low beams still do not come on. I have lived with it for several months using fog lights and high beams. So now have replaced light switch and ignition switch and both improved eratic performance but I still do not get any low beams. I guess it is possible I got a bad headlight switch. Should I try another one, or are there other component failures that can cause both low beams to go out. Fuses look fine and when checked the voltage at low-beam fuses, the voltage goes up and down at both fuses as turn headlight switch. Any other dianostics to narrow the possible causes?
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I checked out battery per Solent above and battery checked out OK. thanks Solent. Decided to try old ignition switch but in process of removing new one, found that there was play in its position on shaft. I pushed it full forward and tried to start car and it worked. I then retightened set screws to hold ignition switch in full forward position. Evertthing back together and working normal so far. Yea. Thanks to all who helped with original problem and this one.
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After intermittent lights, turnsignal and fan problem in prior topic for my 1999 C2 996, I decided to replace the $12 ignition switch. I followed DIY instructions which were great including trying to start before buttoning up. I reconnected battery and tried to start. All lights came on but no ignition sounds at all (no solenoid click). I checked out wont start topics and sounds like battery could be bad as Lauren warned in prior blog. Battery does not have date stamp so do not know how much older than two years I have had car. I cleaned terminals and charged two hours (it appeared to be taking charge) and tried again. Same result. I had not had any prior starting problems before replacing ignition switch. Any thoughts on chance of battery bad, other problem caused by my DIY switch replacement, random failure of clutch switch, chance of defective new part, etc.
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I lived with this exact problem for six months with my 1999 996 C2 with 60-70k miles. Could hear squeek when pressed down on fender. Finally found good discussions in forums with strong threads suggesting that control arms needed replacing. There were other discussions about sway bar bushings and creaks versus squeeks implying different problems. I bought two each control arms and control arm links from Pelican Parts for modest cost and replaced and problem went away and has stayed away for 5k miles.
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I followed threads ignition switch and found one that suggested turning key left and that worked to start wipers. So bad ignition switch. Ordered replacement ignition switch and saw DIY for installation. Thanks.
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Thanks Loren . Will check them out and report back. Battery is at least two years old, so could be contributing.
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I have a 1999 C2 996 that have owned for two years. It has Xenon lights and aftermarket radio. Otherwise stock. During the last six months the headlights started failling intermittently. At first I just restarted engine and they came back on. Then they failed more frequently and occasionally were more difficult to get on, with different lights coming on at different times as described in forum. During about same time I noticed that heating controls sometimes did not work. I read forum and concentrated on headlights and concuded that needed new headlight switch. I replaced and problem has continued with addition that now my wipers frequently do not work. May have to restart engine several times to get them or lights to start working. Seems to be more likely to happen if radio is on. This combination is starting to feel more like ground fault or computer problem. Also wonder if interference among Xenon lights and aftermarket radio. Hoping for some new references in forum or other ideas.r
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Diagnostic Access Failure
bobmacd44 replied to bobmacd44's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Thanks Loren, you gave me hope to look harder. I read online instructions for Durametric and saw that after market radio could cause problem and recommendation to turn off antivirus software and other programs. Durametric worked and I got P1602 fault code which I found in forum is just indication that battery was disconnected. I cleared code and will now retry smog test. My guess is that radio interferred with smog tester. He probably tried to reset computer by disconnecting battery. Hope this solves problem.
