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Hanseman

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About Hanseman

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    Contributing Member

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    Male

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  • From
    Boston
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    Porsche 911 (996) 1999 Carrera C2
    Volvo 740GL
  1. Dear Renntech forum, Ok, so I did access the driver-side lever assembly to inspect the latch solenoid. The wire that moves back and forth to bring the plate to locking position moves smoothly. The solenoid does not move when I engage the remote lock (flipping the black door mechanism to close) - in either way to lock (from open) or to open (from lock). I assume that the solenoid is bust (or the wiring does not deliver the appropriate signal). Either way, it is not intuitive how to access it for removal/testing? Is it the two Philips head screws only that hold the whole side mounting bracket? Could there be any other explanation for the solenoid not moving? Everything else reacts to the remote lock as it should. Comments and suggestions, please! Thank you, Hans
  2. I just changed the spark plugs (second time) and coils (first time) on my 996C2-MY99 at 115k. It is probably worth spending the little more money and get the OEM Beru spark plugs and corresponding OEM coils. Check with Sunset Imports (Oregon) for possibly the most competitive prices. If the coils do not have any cracks and the rubber don't look dry, there should not be a need to replace. If you do find dryness or cracks, the current (new) coils requires longer screws (now with Torx) so make sure to order those as well. Easiest way to replace the spark plugs is to remove the exhausts, as this will give you enough room work. If you place the rear tires higher (on ramps), the exhausts can be removed without need to take off the rear bumper/skirt. The job should not take more than 2h for both sides if your bolts are not rusted and your tools are good. Good luck! Hans
  3. I opened the trunk using the manual release cable, and disconnected the battery (more than 10min). While without battery connected, I removed the driver-side seat and used contact cleaner to remove any oxide on the alarm module ground cable. After reassembly and battery connection, I can still not use the levers for front/engine hoods as the latch remains engaged. Car starts fine, locks operate, and fuel door locks/unlocks. I suppose next step is to disassemble the driver side lever assembly to make sure the latch solenoid is OK!?!? Any suggestions? Best regards, Hans
  4. Dear Loren, No, no water at all. Durametric says 46 "control locking synchronization" Status: present Any way to resynchronize the latch with the door. I am thinking to use the manual release for the hood and disconnect the battery.... Best regards, Hans
  5. Dear Renntech forum, It seems that the alarm module have had a partial mishap and does not disengage the hood/trunk latch lock upon remote key operation. Neither does manual entry work. The car starts fine, locks/opens all doors with window operation intact, and I have checked all fuses. I have tried to recycle the remote but that did not solve the issue either. The only thing that may coincides with this error is a extraordinary quick "airbag light" that came on instantly after I reset it (using Durametric). Could it be the electrics under the driver seat, such as the ground cable? I am reluctant to go there because it is with some concerns that I would work in that area without disconnecting the battery (I have the hood latch override cable available though). Any suggestions are good suggestions! Best regards, Hans
  6. Dear Loren, I did, it is M6.1 30mm Philips head alloy screws with narrow unthreaded shaft. Have picture too... Any speciality stores that may have such items? Amazon does not... Best regards, Hans
  7. Dear Renntech forum, It seems that two of the screws for my air box was tightened too hard when it was factory serviced last time to replace the air filter so now they cannot be undone without destroying the screwheads. It seems a bit wasteful to buy a new air box if I can manage to remove the stuck screws. However, proper and correct replacement screws seem hard to find. It would be great to know if anyone knows where to find these M6.1 30mm Philips head alloy screws with narrow unthreaded shaft? I have regular M6.1 30mm screws that I can use, but correct ones would be better. Thanks for your help! Hans
  8. Dear Loren and kbrandsma, It was a simple issue; Fuse C3. But now I have located both emergency releases...and learned some of the electric system as well. Best regards, Hans
  9. Dear Renntech forum, Well, I did aim for the battery disconnect approach, and about 1h later after digging and finger feeling for the release cable, I opted to locate the wire by other means. It was not rerouted to the tow hole, but in fact readily accessible from underneath the car using an electricians fish line. Also, this would be an easier way to reroute the wire for others wanting it accessible through the tow hook hole. Anyway, I managed this way to open the trunk and disconnect the battery. However 10-15min without electricity did not remedy the lock function situation. In addition, I was able to also locate the fuel latch release, although it had fallen down along the passenger side door jamb. I can now fill gas, which is a relief! Nonetheless, the alarm seem activated as the signal is blinking from the stereo and the trunk/engine latches are locked. I do get a soft "thud" response from the doors, but neither side engages the locks. Manual locking only locks the driver side. Since I get the double horn beep, I assume that it is either: i) the passenger monitoring system, or ii) internal fault in the drive block control unit? Would the internal passenger monitoring system not have been disconnect as indicated by my error codes? Thus leaving the drive block control unit as the main suspect...? I will remove the driver side seat tomorrow to see if something looks awry with the control unit. Best regards and THANKS, Hans
  10. Dear kbrandsma, I'll try to access the manual trunk release tomorrow through the wheelhousing to disconnect the battery. My plan is to remove the seat to investigate the alarm to see if any contacts may have come loose as I indeed moved my seat to accomodate a large box in the back seat. Perhaps something came loose... It is worth a try.. As for the key trick (when inserted and remains turned for a few seconds), yes, it operates the windows up and down. Car starts fine..just that no controls for inside lights, windows, mirrors, etc available and the trunk, engine and gas latches locked. Best regards, Hans
  11. Dear Loren, Nope, no water or moisture on the floor under the driver seat. I do think it is a simple issue because I have never had any issues of this sort before. Moroever, the car does respond with sounds as it is trying to enagage the lock function but cannot. Perhaps it is a mechanical fault in the passenger side lock, I dont know. I am hesitant to open the door liner as I cannot disconnect the battery, and thus the airbag is fed live. Nonetheless, the major issue is now to get some gas into the car so I can drive to a Porsche Service center.... I dont have the manual release for the gas latch lid in the passenger side door jamb for some reason. Best regards, Hans
  12. Dear Loren, My Durametric does not allow clearing alarm codes. Moreover, the trunk is locked so I cannot reach the battery nor my wheel bolt key to remove front wheel and to access manual release inside the wheelliner. If I just could get the alarm to disengage (to open trunk) or engage fully (lock everything). Best regards, Hans
  13. Dear Renntech, (I originally put this topic in the wrong forum). Here is a revised version, updated to reflect new information. I had just parked my 996MY99C2 and upon locking the car with the remote, I got a double horn beep back and checked to see if the doors indeed had locked. The doors were unlocked. I tried again with the same result, and then opted for locking with the key. The driver-side door locks but the passenger side remains unlocked with the double horn beep to follow. However, the trunk, engine compartment, and gas lid are locked (and does not disengage lock with key opening). Once at home I inserted my laptop with Durametric cable and read the alarm fault memory. Fault codes as follows: 34: interior sensor faulty (status present) 58: tank servo motor not energized (status present) 60: central locking limit position (lock not reached) 33: interior sensor faulty (status not present) 46: control locking synchronization (status present) 61: central locking limit position (status not present) I can not lock the doors with the remote, but the key locks only the driver side. The hood, trunk, and gas lid lock latches are all engaged and does not disengage with the remote. The lights are all inoperable inside the car, the window motors does not operate with controls, but the windows (both sides) lower and close with the doors closing. The alarm system fuse B8 (15AMP) seems OK and there is no moisture in the car (under the driver side seat). The car starts and drives as usual. Overall it seems that the alarm is engaged partly and does not close fully (with remote), and conversely, does not disengage when using the remote. Any help is good help! Sincerely, Hans
  14. Dear Renntech, I had just parked my 996MY99C2 and upon locking the car with the remote, I got a double horn beep back and checked to see if the doors indeed had locked. The doors were unlocked. I tried again with the same result, and then opted for locking with the key. The driver-side door locks but the passenger side remains unlocked with the double horn beep to follow. However, the trunk, engine compartment, and gas lid are locked (and does not disengage lock with key opening). Once home I inserted my laptop with Durametric cable and read the alarm fault memory. Fault codes as follows: 34: interior sensor faulty (status present) 58: tank servo motor not energized (status present) 60: central locking limit position (lock not reached) 33: interior sensor faulty (status not present) 46: control locking synchronization (status present) 61: central locking limit position (status not present) The lights are all inoperable inside the car. The window motors does not operate with controls, but the windows (both sides) lower and close with the doors closing. The alarm system fuse B8 (15AMP) seems OK. Overall it seems that the alarm system is out of sync with the doors OR the passenger side lock mechanism is bust. Any help is good help! Sincerely, Hans
  15. I have a similar issue (see thread: Squeeking sound from front wheel after 10min driving) which I am trying to deal with. When the car is standing still and you press on the front fender, can you hear the sound? Also, if you turn the steering wheel back-and-forth can you hear the sound? Mine does. I am using WD40 to spray on individual linkages on my front wheel to try to isolate the location of the sound. Good luck, Hans
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