belleriver

2003 996 C2 cab 6spd 84,000km I have this oscillating metallic noise during idle at startup coming from the engine compartment: "shing" - 1 second pause - "shing" - 1 second pause - "shing" etc... it almost sounds like a knife blade against a metal sharpening tool, very high pitched. As soon as the rpm's drop off it makes a sound like a fan being stopped and disappears. The only other time I heard it was when I got off the highway after about 2 hours of driving and was idling at a light, it was a lot louder and again sounded like an out of balabce fan hitting a piece of metal, then it stopped while I was driving. The A/C on/off does not seem to be tied to it. I searched the forum but did not see anything. Anyone have any idea what it could be?

If your glass can be pushed down by hand about 1/2" with the door open then your regulator cable is likely stretched and the regulator needs to be replaced. What I was reffering to is the adjustment of the glass after replacing the regulator. I had the same condition as you and replaced my regulator, but after doing so the travel was still only 2 to 3mm. The difference is that after replacing the regulator the movement by hand is gone. My glass was not in the correct start position preventing the motor from moving the full 1/2". Once this was corrected it started working right. Sorry about the confusion.

I finally gave up messing with it and went to the dealership. The tech told me the window was sitting too high. When I replaced the regulator i inserted the glass into the clamps as far down as I could get it in. I had everthing marked off so I could get the window back where it was. The clamps come with a small piece of rubber that bridges accross the 2 sides of each clamp and forms a nest for the glass to sit in. I know I had the glass down all the way in the clamps. The tech explained that since the glass was too high the motor was trying to make the full cycle up but was torquing out after only travelling 2 or 3 mm's. When the door was opened the glass would therefore only drop the 2 or 3 mm's. This does not quite explain to me why the window stopped in the correct position when raised with the door open? An easy way to check that you have the glass in the correct position is to open the door and lock it by manually actuating the lock mechanism with a screw driver, this will raise the glass as if the door is shut. In this position the angled part of the glass near the rear view mirror assembly should line up with the top of the door created by the triangular plastic peice to which the mirro assembly is attached. He tried to lower my glass using the adjustments at the bottom of the door but could not get it low enough. He ended up opening up the door and finding that the regulator needed adjustment in the spring assembly portion to tighten the whole system. He rigged this up using a couple of metal washers. He told me that this was likely a function of the non-original Porsche part that I purchased. In the end I still came out ahead a few $100's doing it myself, using a non-Porsche part and having him adjust it. If I had to do it again I would likely use a Porsche part since I am not sure how long the fix he put in place will last. It seams the adjustment of the windows needs to be very exact and any variation in the regulator can lead to problems.

Dennis, I think you are right. I had considered this but felt that if I lowered the window any further I would risk water getting in. However, this may be the only solution. I'll have to see if I can cheat it enough that I clear the roof but not let water in. Not sure what else to do. Thanks.

My driver door is doing the same thing. I tried what you suggested and everything appears to function properly except the window lowering function travel is only 4mm causing the glass to still hit the roof when the door is shut. I tried to retrain the window but noticed no change. When I open the driver door with the interior or exterior handle the glass only travels down 4mm in either case (passenger side is 13mm). With the door closed the roof overlaps the glass by 5mm (passenger side is 4-8mm). When I raise the glass with the door open I get 15mm of upward travel upon closing the door; this seams to work properly (passenger side is 13mm). I just changed out my regulator because I had a stretched cable. Prior to the replacement the motor rotation when lifting either handle provided enough travel to move the window down by hand the 13mm's required to clear the edge of the roof. Now that I changed the regulator it looks like the motor is not cycling enough except with the door open??? I can adjust the window but if I lower the glass any further I am afraid water will get in. I searched the site for any other adjustment procedures but could not find anything. Is there a way to adjust the window lowering function travel? Why would the travel be 4mm when using the door handles and 13mm with the door open?

I have the same problem. I will have to go to a mechanic with the right software to get the airbag reset. I have been looking into buying the Durametric unit to reset it myself. i was going to wait until I had the window resolved in case I have to pull it apart again.

yes, RennTech.org Forums _ 996 (Carrera) - DIY _ Mass Air Flow Sensor You should clean your idle control valve once you are in there. check out the thread "996 Stalling after start-up" I cleaned both last time mine started idling rough and it does help.

thanks for the suggestion - checked the fuses - everything looks ok. still stumped?????

Thanks for the advice. I looked into the microswitches. According to one of the threads I found there are 7 in total related to the door but none of them seam to set/limit the window travel. The thread indicates "When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open,which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM." Can you please explain further which micro switch you are refering to? If it is controlled by the ACM is it possible this needs to be adjusted due to the replaced regulator?

I made mine out of 2x12's for the sides and 3/4" plywood crossmembers and top and bottom. I aslo split mine in 2 piecse. 2' under the tire and 4' for the ramp. This allows me to remove the ramp portion for easier side access. Definately stronger and cheaper than anything you can buy. I saw one guy that wired pot lights on the inside of his. great idea.

2006 996 C2 Cab 6spd. As with several others on this forum my driver side window regulator cable was stretched causing my window not to lower during the window lowering function cycle, causing the glass to hit the roof when the door was shut. I was manually lowering the glass about ½ inch each time prior to shutting the door. I replaced my window regulator and followed the provided window adjustment procedure. Everything appears to function properly except the window lowering function travel is only 4mm causing the glass to still hit the roof when the door is shut. I tried to retrain the window but noticed no change. I took some measurements I thought might help explain: When I open the driver door with the interior or exterior handle the glass only travels down 4mm in either case (passenger side is 13mm). With the door closed the roof overlaps the glass by 5mm (passenger side is 4-8mm). When I raise the glass with the door open I get 15mm of upward travel upon closing the door; this seams to work properly (passenger side is 13mm). If I lower the glass any further I am afraid water will get in. I searched the site for any other adjustment procedures but could not find anything. Is there a way to adjust the window lowering function? Why would it be 4mm when using the door handles and 13mm with the door open? Any help would be greatly appreciated…

pics attached - not that clear as they came off my phone.

Here is an easy one. One thing I did not like on my 996 was how long the shifter was. My prior car had a shorter shifter and the travel required to change gears on the 996 was bugging me. I did some reading and found many short throw shifter packages out there for $200+. I came up with a $0 solution. I pulled off my shifter knob and leather boot assembly, cut the metal rod down by about 1-1.5" and put the shifter assembly back on. See the attached for basic instructions on how to get the shifter off. Once you unclip the leather boot simply pull off the press fit knob (mine was a little different than the pics in the attached). I pressed a large garbage bag over the rod so that no metal chips would end up in the car. With a hack saw I cut the rod back 1-1.5". Clean up. Put a little lock-tite on the tip of the rod and press the Knob back in place. Then clip the boot in place and your done. $0 and 1 hour max. Let me know what you think.

Maurice, I added a few tie straps as spacers per the link you gave me and worked perfectly. I am not sure how long it will hold up but there appears to be no reason it shouldn't last. Thanks for the info! Saverio

Not sure what a CDR-23 is but I have a 2003 996 and my entire radio/CD stops working once in a while. I also get "PORSCHE" on the radio and no sound. I am not sure the sequence of events that leads to what ever is going on but somehow it always seams to go away.

Tried it out and it appears the cable is stretched. I checked out the bike cable idea - makes sense - I will try it this weekend. I will have to bring it in to a mechanic in town that has Porsche software to reset the Airbag error. thanks for your help. Saverio

2003 996 Cab 6pd 74000 km A few days ago my window lowering function on the driver side stopped working. I have read all the threads I could find and they were very helpful. I was unable to get a clear solution based on what I read as my window is behaving a little differently. This is what I have observed: when actuating the window with the window button the window travels up ok but on the way down it seams to travel faster the last 3-4 inches. with the door closed, moving the inside or outside door handles seams to actutes the window lowering function based on the sound, however the window does not travel down. In this case I can move the window down the 1/2" by hand having moved with the window down the 1/2" manually, the window does automatically close on the upstroke Based on this it appears the electrical system is functioning properly and I have a mechanical problem. A few of the threads made mention of an "Adustment valve for window lowing function" - could this be the solution and if so where is the valve? I have the door apart but cannot see anything that is broken. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a 2003 C2 Cab, 6 spd. The car was imported into the US orginally. I purchased the car and imported it into Canada. Canada requires day time running lights so I had the dealer hookup the foglights so they would run continuously. I owned the car for a few years and put about 20000km on it with the existing foglights. Last year my passenger foglight and the small parking light under the xenon head light burned out. I replaced both foglights and the small parking light. About 6 months later the passenger foglight burned out again. I realize the foglights run continuously but It seams a little coincidental that it is the passenger foglight than keeps burning out and that it failed after <10000 kms. Not sure this is a problem or how many km's I should get out of a foglight? I checked the fuse box - nothing strange. I was wondering if anyone has come accross a similar situation or if there is some way to validate the electrical system to the light assembly is working properly?

2003 996 70,000 km I am having my clutch replaced and the dealer tech is suggesting the flywheel may need to be replaced depending on what they find once disassembled. My understaning is that unless the clutch is completely gone and metal to metal contact has damaged the flywheel it should not need to be replaced. I am being told the flywheel cannot be machined. I don't think I drive it hard enough to warp it but you never know. Any feedback on what I should be looking for to determine if it needs to be replaced? Also, despite all the Real Main Seal leak issues I have read about on the 996's mine, by some miracle, does not leak. As I am having the clutch replaced I decided the seal should also be replaced. Is this a good idea or does the old "if it ain't broke" apply??

I followed the DIY instructions (attached)and did not remove the mufflers and it took me about 6 hours total saved myself $600-$800 easy. It is a pain in the rear - you just have to stick with it - don't get discouraged - it is possible. I would go with Loren's suggestion and pull the mufflers as it will likely make the job much easier. A small rachet that holds a hex bit is very useful. You can do it!! 996 spark plug change.pdf

I did not get the clutch changed yet. I store my car in the winter due to all the salt on the roads in our area. I figured it was best to park it a few weeks early and deal with the clutch in the spring. It is good to know the newer seals may last longer. I used to own a Nissan 300Z years ago that I changed the clutch on but I only had to drop the transmission. Based on everything I have read, you need to remove the engine on the 996 to change the clutch - is this accurate? Both flyingpenguin and kristian above talk about handling the transmission but no one talks about the engine? The only thing holding me back is the thought of dropping the engine; otherwise it would have been done by now...

makes sense - thought I would double check - thanks.

This is my first post. This has been a very informative web site. I changed my spark plugs last week! DYI posts were my motivation for trying it in the first place ... and not giving up. Only 6.5 hours and 1 bruised set of knuckles. I have a 2003 996 C2 Cab, 6 spd 70,000 km's I live in Canada but imported the car from the US. I took the advise and tried to search before I posted but perhaps missed this item. Since purchasing this car I always felt the clutch was much stiffer than any car I've ever owned. While it took more force to operate the pedal always travelled smoothly. A few days ago I notice my clutch pedal had a strange feel to it as I depressed it the first few inches. It feels as if it is sticking, causing it to not travel smoothly. It was affecting my launch, making it very rough. I also noticed in 3rd and 4th gear that my clutch is slipping. I'm at 70,000 kms and as far as I know the clutch has never been changed. My guess is my clutch is shot but the pedal weirdness seams a little to coincidental. Can a bad clutch hydraulic cylinder be causing my clutch to not fully seat and therfore slip?