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I got the exact same symptoms 3300km (2000 miles) later, not as bad as before but i could feel it starting to happen. Cleaned my airfilter and maf sensor, problem gone. Sorry, I cant remember for sure but i dont think I got any codes. Im going to start cleaning mine every 2500km.
Thanks for the tip. Just curious if you lowered yours or its at stock height?
18". Let me know if there are any other details i can share.
belleriver started following Dreaded CEL today, Would a black 2002 911 Carrera 4 look stupid in Martini, Power Seat Issue and and 1 other
just search for "black 911 with martini" - lots of pics.
belleriver replied to BananaMobile's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)seat removal is not complex. 4 bolts (torque to 65Nm) and an electrical connection if I remember right.
It would be a function of how low you want to drop it. I dropped my C2 an inch and only changed out the springs (Eibach Pro-Kit Spring Set Front and Rear fitment). This combined with wheel spacers (7mm front 15mm rear) was the most I found I could drop it without running into any issues. I was able to get my alignment back to spec except the camber is just a hair out of the max spec. I have been able to manage the tire wear by pulling the rubber off and rotating them. There are adjustable lower control arms that would help. My ride is a little tighter but no major change in performance. Very pleased with the look and feel. I found a DIY I had saved - attached. 911 lowered.pdf
update: cleaned my MAF and electrical connection to TB. running great for now...
Wizard - I could not find any way on my Durametric to test Fuel delivery/pressure/pump. I hooked up my Durametric last night and got similar errors from before I replaced the TB even though my CEL was not on. (see pic below) I cleared the faults and it ran perfect. Based on this result I will proceed with judgejon's suggestions and try cleaning the MAF and electrical connection tonight. Based on the other posts I read, I also tried the PSM on/off when it was idling real rough but it made no difference. I think to properly assess this idea I will need to clear all fault codes then drive with PSM off for a while. I will try this if the MAF/electrical cleaning does not work.
So I replaced my throttle body on the weekend and did the reset on it, started it up. Ran great for 2 days. Last night on the way home the idle started to drop off then jump up and stabilize, but the car was still responsive. This morning started ok, idled a little rough, then after a few 100 meters the unresponsiveness started up again. Same exact problem I had before. Items replaced to date: ignition switch, cam sensors and throttle body. I would appreciate any input on possible next steps. It must be something electrical/intermittent because it comes and goes? Could it be my MAF sensor? gas pedal? ignition coil? fuel injectors? Is there a way to determine what is happening with my Durametric?
perfect. thanks for all your help!!
Im also seeing 997.110.247.00
I ordered the TB. Any chance I can get confirmation on the throttle body seal part number? is it 996-110-317-52 or 997.110.319.00?
Hi Ahsai. thanks for the feedback. I should have said this in my original post... Yesterday I reset the CEL and did the throttle calibration. Afterwards, I checked the throttle position sensor target vs actual on my Durametric and everything appeared to be in sync ie actual = target. I think this is the test you are referring to. The car ran ok for a 5-10 miles then started acting up again. I will check out the Bosch part. hopefully its not the wiring. thanks for the clarification on the other sensor!
I have a 2003 996 C2 convertible, manual, 124000km I have had several problems over the past few months. My electrical system appeared to be half on, AC fan would not run, no head lights, until I jiggled the ignition switch. I replaced the ignition switch (noticed it was cracked) and resolved that problem. The car would cut out at idle. I had a cam sensor error, so I replaced both. Now the car is intermittently unresponsive/sluggish. Over the past few years the car would become unresponsive or run real rough at start up. I would remove the throttle body, clean it and the car would run great again. I recently had more serious problems where the car was stopping at idle and would not respond at all. Then I got 4 codes when I tried to start it. P1502, P1517, P1120, P1122. Cleared these ran ok, then became unresponsive again, feels like it will die at idle if I don’t give it gas. My gut is telling me I have to replace the throttle body based on the following: Age of the car History of having the same symptoms and cleaning the TB to fix it. TB is clean now but still having problems Questions: Do you think replacing the TB makes sense as a next move? When I look up the TB part online, I see a Throttle Position Switch listed as a related part. Could this be the problem? The part is about 1.5”x1.5”x3/8” with a rotary connection for a spindle. I can’t find it on the engine and can’t see any reason for it as it appears the TB is a completely integrated assembly with the sensor built in. Is this part of the gas pedal? My car is a 2003. Was there an earlier version with a mechanical throttle that this is for? I found this older thread with the same error codes so I posted this here. I would appreciate any help you can offer.
I get that burning rubber smell all the time when I drive it hard. I feel the same way - good workout. It is a racecar, so drive it like one. If you maintain it properly it won't let you down. I'm not saying I beat the hell out of mine but I definately drive it aggresively any chance I have - otherwise you might as well own a Minivan!