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996daylyd

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Everything posted by 996daylyd

  1. 996daylyd
    I think the issue of oil fill levels on these cars is greatly under-appreciated. The manuel is clear, it is to be checked oil HOT and after sitting for 20. The electric gauge has to have some seriously intense logarithms to properly calibrate drain down and oil temp in all conditions. There will be times when it is accurate, interestingly enough, it's pretty accurate when you use it in the condition mentioned. It is not accurate in many other conditions, and it needs to be emphasized, these things carry a lot of oil and the expansion is considerable. I'm willing to bet that a large percentage of 996's are overfilled. The question of the new cars with no dipsticks is one I've been very curious about, I have been assuming that the superior computer makes for more accuracy. These engines are flat, draining takes a while and different oils drain differently at different temperatures. If you track it, take a cold reading on the stick and then after it sits for 15 after a hot 20 min session. Bear in mind you do not want it over the mark on the track with stiff suspension and track day tires. ,,,,,,and that is Bare,,,,or not, it can be a bear.
  2. 996daylyd
    I have to chime in here, I learned the very hard way that checking oil level can be deceiving. These cars take a lot of oil and it expands quite a bit, if you take the dipstick measure when the oil is anything but absolutely hot, that is down near 1 bar at idle, it will read low. Filling with cold oil during a change and go to the top mark, you have over filled it. The recommended fill in the manual is exactly right. You don't want to run it overfull, I'm not the only that has done this, the shop that changed to oil with my previous owner over filled it. Forget the gauge, the computer is too rudimentary to take into account the many parameters involved. Get the car completely hot and let it sit for 10 mins on level ground and check.
  3. 996daylyd
    Thank you guys for the help. I think the Bentley video answers my questions about moving things around to get at the pump. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit that I cannot figure out how to run effective searches. For example I'm trying to get a simple look at the procedure and torque values for replacing the three rollers that go with the drive belt. I assume the search box on top right is the only way to run a search. I'll order the Bentley manual, probably all I'll need for the stuff I'm willing to do. BTW, Loren your DIY on the third radiator was excellent, just the kind of step by step that somebody like me really appreciates. That job went very well and it should be noted that removing the nose to clean should be a standard maintenance procedure, it was a real mess in there. (I drive 2200 miles a month, in CA heat, clean radiators and a third is a good idea) I found that gutter screens form the local box store worked very well as screens to protect the radiators and saved the 250$ from the renline screens. (the renline website has nice pictures of exactly where to put the screws) Loren and JFP, I really appreciate all the effort you guys do to keep this site so informative. Bill
  4. 996daylyd
    I find the water pump DIY a little weak, I think I can deal with the confusing bit about bolts and nuts on the engine carrier, although it's a bit of a hash. I assume we all change the a tensioners and rollers, no note about that. I'm especially looking for torque specs for pump, the carrier nuts and bolts, tensioners, rollers. The only torque spec given is the drain plug. I was going to buy the Bentley manual until I read a review where it was noted they cover the WP replacement with the engine out, which is almost useless. Any help would be appreciated. I'm still looking for a good website for basic repairs on this car, with the 944 I had a great one that covered everything, this and the P-car site seem less complete. Am i missing something? Thank you again in advance. Bill
  5. 996daylyd
    you're killing us, what happened?
  6. 996daylyd
    Without reservation, without doubt go see Michael Rose at 9Elf motorsports in Santa Rosa. I know that's not Marin, worth the trip. Honest, extremely capable, has the full on Porsche computer, gets it done with no screwing around. He did my clutch, lne bearing upgrade, new style RMS and water pump with all the rollers etc for 3800$. Done in 2 days. Anybody in Marin would nick a whole hell of a lot more and probably take 3 times as long. BTW, the water pump service costs the same as a clutch. Little appreciated fact, getting to a clutch on a 996 is easy and takes not much time.
  7. 996daylyd
    I have been running redline 75-90NS in my 996 for 85K miles and it has worked very well, this is what redline recommended, it was definite improvement over swepco, these thngs are different form my 944 transaxles where swepco was the way. On the p-car website in the diy on this he says these transmissions "do not like" to be filled to the fill hole, rather with the measured amount, 2.7 liters. I'm to go with that on next change, figuring if you do fill with the amount Porsche calls for it is not filled to the fill hole.
  8. 996daylyd
    logray, i find this a little interesting. i have found that my 3.4 takes all of 9 qt's of redline 5-40 and still the dipstick is a little low, still taking a third of a quart. i also find the dash oil level meter to do all kinds of somewhat erratic things and have pretty much decided it's just for fun. and yes it's spendy, oil changes cost me 60$ a month without any oil burned, with a 6000 mile drain interval.
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