Baconaire

I bet you drive with the top down and the AC cranked. I do too. On a partucularly humid day, I was wearing sandals and noticed that condensation from the AC tubes, was dripping on my feet. I reached down and the plastic was really wet. Like a cold drink on hot humid day. I assume it does not happen with the top closed, since the AC takes humidity out of the air. I can't imagine a solution other than towelling off the tubes. I notice you're from Boston. I am also and yesterday and today would be just the kind of day's this would happen.

Thanks for the reply. That's what a I figured. It's a bummer becaise I have the Elm ODBII scanner. I haven't tried but I doubt it will have the option to reset the airbag light... I'll find out how much a mechanic will charge for the 5 minutes it will take to reset the light. Any other cheaper solutions?

Longs story short-I removed the passenger side seat, ran the car for a week without the seat and the airbag light came on. That made sense. (Very handy by the way having no passenger seat, like having a staiton wagon!). I replaced the seat a week later, with the one electrical connector, and everthing works normally, except the airbag warning light won'g go out. I've run the car normally for a week, just the light. There is one small electrical connector dangling with no mate, under the seat. I think it has 2 big pins. I looked hard and could find no mate. No mention in the service manual. I'd like to avoid a trip to the dealer. I'm going to try my odbII reaeder but I suspect that will only address the CEL(which I don't have). Did I miss something. Is there anyway to reset the light??

I did not know that. But it works fine. You just have to lookup the translation of the codes. Which is something I would do anyways to double check. Just be sure to get the ISO protocol.

I thought I'd share my experience since I got a lot of helpful guidance here... I got my 98 Box in Feb, in April I got a check engine light. Bought a OBDII sensor from Digimoto which connects to a laptop. (Less than $100, I highly recommend). I had 2 codes-1128 and 1130. This indicates a lean condition on both sides of the engine, coming from the O2 sensors. At the suggestion of others here, I cleaned the MAF senor, reset the CEL and did not see the CEL for another 3 months. In June the CEL came back with the same codes. Again I cleaned the MAF, this time the CEL came back. Check the air intake,filter, cleaned the throttle body, and checked the oil filler. No problems. So I finally broke down and bought the $300 sensor. A very easy installation. Accessing the engine is harder than replacing the sensor. Don't be afraid to do it yourself. With the old sensor I noted using the ODB sensor that MAF was returning a value of 4 at idle (I forget the units but its like cubib feet per minute or second or some other volume of air per time). Reset the computer. Note that when you reset the CEL, the car will idle rough as it looks for a comfortable idle. Don't be alarmed. I just let it idle and within a minute or 2 its running fine. Well, now it is running wonderfully. Since I was new to the car, I did not realize that eventhough I may not have had a CEL, the car never ran as well as it could, until I replace the MAF. It is like a new car, the improvement is remarkable. I note that at idle with the new MAF idles at 6. The moral-just becuase you eliminate the CEL by cleaning the sensor, you may still suffer a performance hit. The MAF may not fail outright, it may read low. So the car beleives the MAF is working, it is getting more air than it is aware of, and responds accordingly, by running lean. P1128-P1130. Look closely at the MAF. Invest in the OBDII scanner if you can, and you will know for sure.