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Everything posted by Baconaire

  1. Chris, Notice about a year ago you had the same issues as I have been having: Car occassionaly wont start; turns over but wont start. Current theory is that it might be moisture in the fuel. I also have P0446. I was having an occassional misfire. Debugged ignition, no problems there. Worst of problem is after rain. Put fresh fuel in and gas dry, and then it runs ok. But still have P0446. Did you ever get your's fixed? Thanks
  2. I bumped part of my Sec Air System loose when working on something else. I know the vacum accuates the Change Over valve and the electic change over controls that, but I suppose my question is, where does the vacuum resivoir get it's vacuum from? And where does what does the check valve block? For now I put the check valve between the vaccum resiovoir and the intake plenum with the 'stop' side of the check valve facing the resivior assuming it somehome gets vacuum from the intake plenum. With the valve reversed I assume it would not be able to hold vacuum. Please let me know if I got that wrong and it should allow air to be dumped into the plenum. I find Sec Air system to be confusing for what it does. As I write I think my decion was wrong. Should it not allow air into the resivoir from the intake? Vacuum would be reversed. I'm so condused! MY1998, all parts are new, seen the pic of parts. Really just need a simple 'black or while faces plenum" Do racers just get rid of the whole shebang and only get emissions tested when the engine is warm.
  3. WD40!!???? DON"T DO IT. The WD stands for Water Displacer. It deters rust by displacing water with lubricant. This is the exact opposite of what you are trying to do by cleaning the MAF which is a very fragile eletronic component. Putting a film of WD 40 on the there is BAD. Use the MAF cleaner or contact cleaner. You want it clean and dry with no residue. I would not touch the filament with anything. Hold it by the connector, spray with MAF cleaner, let it drip dry and carefully replace it. It's a $200 part. It is super easy to remove and replace. Just be gentle with it and step away from the WD40! The MAF and O2 sensors (especially pre-cat) are items that will eventually need replacing. Not often, but they have a direct impact on performacnce and economy as they tell the ECU how much gas to flow.
  4. Looking for smoothness more than anything. I searched 9x7 so I assumed you mean an OE 987 or 997??
  5. Relax and enjoy it! In my humble opinion at 50k you are in good shape but there are no guarantees. The vibration is most likely the car starting cold and finding idle. It has a special idle control valve which control cold starts until it warms up. It should settle quickly to an idle around 8-900 RPM and be relatively stable. I'm assuming the vibration is not intense. At 50k cleaning the intake,MAF,Idle valve, and throttle body are nice to do, pretty easy, and cost only about $20 for an air filter,throttle body cleaner and MAF cleaner. It's a question of whether you want to keep intimate with your baby or let a pro do all your work. Both have advantages. If you have metric tools, security torx bits, and time. This is a nice way to get familiar with the car in an afternoon. What most have found is the majority of issues are not catastrophic, but all of the sub- systems that make a car work. This goes for Porsches and Hondas. All cars. Care for it well. Don't expect a trouble free lifetime but don't drive yourself nuts. Don't forget most people come here with problems. Noone I know of comes here and says, 'today I was driving and I had no problems'. Just watch for fluids on the floor (besides water). And maintain her well. If you have no check engine lights and it runs well, drive it and enjoy! At 50k any initial issues have probably been addressed.
  6. I had the opportunity to drive my brother in laws stock S2000. Nice car. The one element I found signigicantly better than my 986 was the shifting: smoother and shorter throws.(the shifter must be directly atop the trans or linked by rods). I don't imagine a short shifter would help with the smoothness of our cable driven 5 spd trans. Two questions: -Should I go name brand short shifter or are the knock offs ok? No track for me. -I've lubed the gear accuators on the trans. Other than that, is there any way to make shifting smoother? On motorcycles we lube all the cables by forcing essentially WD40 into the lines. However the 986 cables are heavly insulated in the engine bay. Am I expecting too much from a short shifter?
  7. Yup, took about 1 liter. Tips: If replacing the PS pump, I would use that prying tool. I have a trim tool that's very similar that I use for a lot of prying jobs (like ball linkages), but it did not fit the PS return line well and I hacked the little red connector. Otherwise its not too bad. You might want order a pulley($30) as well. I used the proper puller tool but it was on there so tight that it deformed the pulley. I hammered, filed and sanded down any areas of concern so as not to damage the belt until my pulley arives (the belt costs more than the pulley). If you have not replaced the polyrib belt in a while (several years) its good time to do that as well.(changing the belt requies a 24mm shallow socket and pry bar) Also take the time to clean the throttle body and air intake as it needs to be removed as well. If replacing the PS High Pressure side LINE, then absolutely remove the AC compressor. It sounds like a pain but its pretty easy and will save a lot of time. I cannot see how you can remove or install the high pressure PS line w/o removing the AC compressor. Now, when disconnecting the freon lines I got a woosh and a tiny spritz of freon. So there may be a more preffered way to remove the AC compressor. Keep the AC lines and inputs very clean! After putting it back together I charged the AC with 134a w/oil, but that may not have be need. I did not want to take a chance. Lastly its also nice to remove the drivers side seat, but if you run the car w/o the seat you will get an airbag light. Of course you want to run the car before zipping it all up to ensure no leaks and eveything runs right. So expect the airbag light. Only a dealer or the Durametic ODB tool can clear an airbag code. Other DIY ODB tools do not have the ability to clear airbag codes. So expect to have a Durametic (good tool for DIYers with laptops) or a visit to the dealer to clear the code. Peplacing the PS pump is actually easier than replacing the high side line. So to sum up. If replacing just the High Pressure line I would have on hand: -New High Pressure line -1 liter Pentosin -An AC 134a charge kit with guage and oil -A PS Pulley(optional) -A Poly Rib belt if needed (You should be able to leave the PS pump in place but may need to remove the AC compressor) If replacing the PS Pump I would order: -Remanufactured Luk Pump ($200) -1 liter Pentosin -Low pressure pry tool -A PS Pulley(optional) -A Poly Rib belt if needed (This is actually easier than replacing lines. I don't beleive it would require removing the AC, just the trottle body and plenum) In both cases you need to be familiar with Poly Rib belt replacement even if not putting a new one on. And for the pump or low side line need to be comfy removing the air intake and throttle body and plenum (and watch for the little emission tubes).
  8. After installing after market headers on my 1998 986, I wound up cooking my high pressure power steering line. Since a remanned PS pump costs as much as the hose, I figured I may as well replace it while I'm at it (90k miles). In the process in order to get the PS pump out I removed the Air Conditioning lines in the engine bay. Whooooshhhhh, a tiny splash of freon and finally all pressure from the AC was releived. To get the old PS line out (as it snakes behind the AC compressor) and the new one in it looks like I will have to remove the AC compressor. My question is: I did not loose much freon at all, although I releived it of a lot of air. Once I get it all back together, how will the AC system get re-pressurized? I am surmising that becuase it is called an AC 'compressor', that it will take care of itself and build pressure to the required pressure. I will recharge the system for the heck of it with one of those off the shelf 134a kits. But is it ok to run the car and/or the AC before the recharge? Will the compressor take care of the pressure as long as 99% of the freon remains in the system?
  9. First questions: How much Pentosin does a 98 Box need. I have 1 liter. Will I need more to fill a bone dry system? I cooked the high pressure PS line after intalling new headers. The hose was $180 at Sunset($280 at Pelican) so I figure while I'm in there I'll replace the pump with a remaned one (only $200). Any tips? Looks like it might be a pain. Advice: the headers on ebay are cheap and a great easy(so far) upgrade. You can really feel the added boost in performance. I would not hesitate. Now mine needed to be clearance with a hammer on the drivers side, and I had to grind the strut brace a little for clearance. But I bought them 3 years ago so could not return them. They are cheaper now and I imagine they have fixed the issue. They are cheap import stainless steel, but look fine and perform well. I painted the welds with high heat cermic duplicolor to try to fend of rust. They are not top of the line but for $150 for a good 15hp is a bargain. just be careful removing the old headers if rusted, bolts break easy. I am lucky enough to have a welder. The old may also fuse to the cat tube. Nice to have a grinder/cutof wheel handy. And a hammer! The real advice here is watch for other clearance issues. Especially that power steering hose.
  10. Yes but I want to remove the visors semi-permanently. I know how to remove the whole assembly, but I want to be able to extricate the visor from the convertible top landing points. The post of the visor goes into these out outboard brakets and is encased by the braket and there no indication of what is keeping it there. If given it a good hard tug and they are securely in place. I do have one last idea which is to unscrew them. Pic of Bracket Connected to Visor
  11. If just topping off, use distilled water (1$ a gallon). You do not want to mix coolants! Only put the Porsche stuff in if you are sure its Porsche stuff in there! When I changed a radiatior I switched to Prestone. Ran tons of water through the system first. 50/50 Prestone Long Life and distilled water. No problems yet in New England 0-100 degree weather, traffic, hard driving, no problem. Needle stays right on 180ish. If going off-brand, then do so at your own risk. But so far, so good. If topping off then its a no brainer: water.
  12. 1998 5spd closing in on 90k miles - Use on street only, semi-spirited driving in New England weather. What would be a loose estimate on when I should excpect to need the shocks or springs replaced? I've done clutch/flywheel, full brakes, radiator, coolant tank, other stuff, and am comfortable DIY wrencher, but not the most experienced. Could this be a DIY job and are there options for a bit of a smoother ride. Understood the springs are dangerous. Not going to track anytime soon. I have 17 inch wheels. Thanks.
  13. Idle valve maybe? I would take a look at the throttle body, check for oil and carbon, clean it out, and take the opportinity to check the idle valve (if e-gas cars have one). Be careful with the paper gasket. Clean the idle valve with MAF or throttle body clearer and accuate the valve when cleaning. Just be care becuase its a pricey little thing. Could just be bad gas, or water in the tank. Also check oil fill cap, and consider replacing gas cap. Just brainstorming.
  14. If you are the type to watch your brakes, you can simply remove the sensors altogether (I've been told). If that does not alleviate the problem it must be something deeper in the car and not the sensors. There is no computer reset needed on the sensors. Now if you had a light and did not replace the sensor, that would make the light persist. Once a sensor triggers the light, it needs to be thrown away.
  15. They are ugly, the mirrors are broken and I don't use them. Is there a way to separate the sun visor from the bracket the top seats in when closed short of cutting them. They seem inextricably married via the rod that binds them. I'd like to have the option of reinstalling if I sell. I want to keep tha brackets but lose the visors.
  16. Depending on the age of your car (or the sensors) its worth replacing them as they do impact air/fuel mix and thus performacnce and mpg. You can get Boxster specific Bosch sensors for about $130 anywhere ( I got mine at Autozone, took one day for them to order). Avoid the universal sensors. If your current ones are high mileage just replace both pre-cat sensors. I've read that post cat are not as important. Installation is easy DIY with a 22mm or 7/8" wrench. I have a specific socket but an open end wrench is easier. Be gentle with the wire harness as I've had wires pull out of brand new sensors and throw an error immediately. Use anti seize but very sparingly. If performance is sluggish a spring tuneup might be in order. Now this is my cheapo procedure than can be accomplished for the price of a bottle of throttle body cleaner provided there are no significant problems. Be prepared to get dirty. -Change or clean air filter -clean throttle body and butterfly nice with proper cleaner -If really ambitious remove throttle body -Clean idle valve -Clean air plenum (reach in with a rag wet with throttle body cleaner, DO NOT DROP ANTHING IN!) -Check plugs(but I don't do this often unless there is a real problem) but if you do this go ahead and replace them -Clean MAF if old with proper cleaner, just be careful with it. -If I'm doing all of this I usually wipe out the whole intake system. -vacum engine bay -vacum drain points -vacum radiators(grills in front bumper) -And replace O2 Sensors if needed -Of course observe proper oil/filter change intervals, trans oil as well -Maybe snake oil but I run a bottle of STP injector cleaner on a fresh tank of gas Clean the car nice inside and out using proper protectants and cleaners. Take a shower. You should be filthy if you have not done this in a while. Don't be afraid to see lots of carbon and oily residue. Go for a spirited ride (this really does help clean carbon out of the engine) Just be careful with all the sensitive sensors and electronics. MAF,02 and plugs should not need replacing often.
  17. I have. I just wired some speakers on the rear deck directly to a Pioneer head. I just have the 4 channel amp. No problems. Just need to fiddle with the fader. Much nicer having speakers behind my head. Mine were cheap KLH home speakers but they wedge under the rollbar perfectly. I believe these are them: http://shop.vendio.com/bb4chewn8/item/9601...5/?s=1210501958 . Now I have a 1998 2.5. I took out the leather storage thing. Like I said for $40 a pair they fit perfect and sound good. Not meant for cars but they work. If they blow I don't care. But I've cranked them for over a year with no probs. I can't speak for newer cars.
  18. It's pretty easy to do yourself. You just need two special bits and some expensive synth gear oil. The bits and about 3 liters of mobile one is probably about $60 if you DIY. I'm not sure when you are suppose to do it but it can't hurt. It is easiest to do when doing the clutch, RMS or other work since accessing the drain and fill holes is a little challenging and requires removing some underbody panels.
  19. I have a 98 2.5. The TC is useless. Of course I don't have PSM but wish I did but just for snow. I have no training, don't track, drive medium hard on the roads, and have never lost control. I have never lost traction on any wheel. The handling is just that good. So I'd say the two factors are: -Weather-PSM is a must if driving in snow or ice. -Driving Style- You may never hit the limits of PSM in dry weather That said it can't hurt unless you are a really experienced high speed tracker. Get the car you want. Shopping for a Porsche is very much about romance and love for the machine. PSM could save you but I'd think you'd have to be driving very hard to have it kick in.
  20. Reporting back. No adverse effects. Car runs sweet and clutch is butter. Easiest/cheapest way to hold flywheel assembly: jack the engine enough to fit a scrap of wood between the black brace and the flywheel, then GENTLY lower the jack. Let the flywheel teeth bite the wood but don't rest the entire weight of the engine on the wood/flywheel. Just enough to keep it still. Clean well when done so no splinters in clutch assembly.
  21. Reporting back with success! I must have wasted 8 hours fighting and fussing just getting the trans back on. Here are some tips: Use old case bolts or buy M12 1.50 pitch, at least 100ml long. Cut the heads off, round them off. Then thread them into the case as guide studs. Be sure they are long enough that you can get them out after. Replace each one, one at a time with a proper case bolt. I thought at one point I might have the wrong clutch disk. So I disassemebled the clutch and slid it on the spline of the input shaft (do this before installing). It was a tight fit, but was the right one! I used a file on the clutch disk on the side that would be first mating with the input shaft and gently opened up the mating splines on the clutch disc. Make sure the metal is smooth, sand if needed. (File the clutch disk spline, not the input shaft! I believe this will have zero adverse effect on the the whole assembly as installation it the only time that front part of the clutch spline is important. Once its one the two mate in full.) Grease splines and clutch disc splines. Also make sure you are in a gear that you can move the input shaft easily. It felt like neutral or 5th. Yes use a clutch aligment tool. And of course lube the splines but lightly. And be mindful of trying to keep the engine and trans at compatible angles. If your car is older or in the rust belt, factor in time for rusted/broken bolts. I had problems with getting the bell housing open, then trouble getting it back together. Two different sets of issues. Next time I will be a factore of 10 faster. Good luck!
  22. I just replaced the flywheel, cluch pad, release plate, throwout arm, and throwout bearing. The actual replacement of these part was real easy. However I am having the darnest time sliding the transmission back onto the crankcase. I don't know if its a problem lining up the trans input shaft splines with the clutch splines, but the input shaft turns relatively freely. I am in the driveway on jack stands. I'm using a motorcycle jack to jack the trans and am jacking the engine from the oil pan. I am clearing the brace that is directly under. I resorted to trying a level to make sure the pilot bearing, clutch splines and input shaft are about the same angle. The case bolts a M12 1.50 pitch. I could only get 1.25 pitch so I cut the heads of those, and tried to use them as studs, to no avail. I am looking for new bolts to do the same with the proper pitched bolts. I thought this morning I should also double check I have the right part/spline patern on the cluth plate. I thought I test fit it but maybe I didn't. I've spent about 6 hours on my back trying to get this baby back together. Does anyone have the part # for the Sachs clutch plate or kit. I any event, does anyone have any tips. It should slide on pretty smoothly right? It should not require force?
  23. That's what I figured. I am in no mood to try to find TDC. Thanks
  24. I did not intend to turn it, it just did from the force of my wrench. Is this going to be a problem when I remount the trans and run the car? It rotated counter clockwise and I could see the the exhaust stroke come out of my header (i have plastic baggies over the header opening). Thanks.
  25. I am finishing up replacing my clutch and Flywheel. While loosening the flywheel bolts, I had not secured the flywheel and the bolts where on so firmly that the torque of loosening them turned the whole assembly, thus rotating the crank. Is this going to be a problem by putting something out of synch? I'm assuming I'm ok since everything is computer controlled.
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