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jplumlee

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Posts posted by jplumlee


  1. Hey guys,

    several months ago I posted about a transmission problem i was having where my 04CS would not shift out of low 4. anyway I replaced the transfer-case servo motor but it didn't fix the problem. So through a few conversations with guys that know more than I, it looks like even after the servo replacement, I need to clear the old config/setup from the old motor. And we couldn't do it with any of the aftermarket scan tools we had available

    Does that even make sense or has anyone experienced that?

    anyhoo I thought Id find an independent in DFW to look at it and see if they can get the transmission working correctly. If so, i need them to also replace the water pump.

    can anyone suggest a reasonable/reputable ind. Porsche mech. in DFW? preferably north dallas/richardson/plano area.

    thanks for your help!

    John

    here's a link to the previous thread(s)  I've replaced the servo motor and the console switch.  I CAN go forward into lower 4 but it wont "back" out to normal.

     

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45658-i-replace-the-transfer-case-servo-motor-but-still-04-cayenne-s/#entry247489


  2. doing the same thing. Can't switch out of low 4wd. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to try next? I was thinking about replacing the running gear switch on the center console but not sure of the part number or how to get the console apart to get at it. Is there a fuse that runs that servo motor? My mechaninc cant feel any thing with his hand on the servo motor as I run the switch so it may not be getting power. any help is much appreciated.

    Here is a link to the previous thread...

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45593-04-cayenne-stuck-in-4wd-please-help/


  3. hey guys,

    I have an 04 cayenne that has been running fine. Well we got some a load of ice here in Texas and I had to get out in it. I put the car in the the low 4wd mode witch it seemed to do without issue but I thought better of it and tried to put it back in "regular" drive mode. However it's stuck in low. when I turn the car off and then back on, i try to turn off 4wd it does nothing for a few seconds and then a "4wd system faulty" comes up on the screen. I've tried everything I know to get it back in normal mode but I'm out of ideas. So a couple of q's... Is there a way to manually take it out of 4wd? are there any fuses/switches or whatnot that could be the culprit? Could the unusally cold weather have anything to do with it not disengaging from 4wd? and finally what are the chances of it operating normally once the temp goes back up around here? I sure hope someone has some ideas

    Im a pretty good ways from any dealer and obviously naked.

    Thanks in advance for any ideas.

    John

    • Like 1

  4. ok so I got the drive shaft replaced and she's purring like a kitten. So i guess ill try to figure out where this gas leak is coming from.

    I've read this thread :

    http://www.renntech....ear-wheel-well/

    and its exactly my issue. What i cant figure out is which part is actually leaking?

    btw... this cavity was full of gas.

    this is the drivers side access panel under the back seat

    PTEC's reply with part #

    "RFM is right on the money. The most common cause for this is a leaking drivers side fuel tank flange. Should be part # 955 620 841 00. Due to the design of the tank, both flanges must be removed( there is one on each side of the tank) so you'll also want two sealing rings ( 955 201 133 01) There is an updated pipe that porsche wants you to install on the drivers side flange as well, 955 620 911 001."

    im a little confused what going on. what do they mean by "both flanges"?

    As usual, a BIG thanks in advance!!!

    post-49345-0-04598100-1354571792_thumb.j


  5. I forgot to mention... the Battery that's under the seat was replaced last year and the one in the boot tested good. However the car is doing the same kinds of things it did prior to the replacement last year. weird lights. not locking properly. keyless entry doesn't work, lights are dim and then click off, just general weirdness is the best way to describe it. ( last night the right rear turn signal stayed on and then faded out after I locked the car ) weird


  6. sorry, tried to be brief...

    ok so this is where I am. O4CS 97k Freshly naked then WHAMMO Drive shaft bearing fails. So while I've been deciding how to proceed it's been sitting under covered parking patiently waiting. My Vertex shaft will be here today and I hope to get it installed over the weekend, but here's where it get weird for me.

    So the other day I went to start the car just to let it warm up and relax since it's been sitting about a month. The car acted like it was dead, but after turning the ignition left/right then reinserting the key the light came on and the car started normally but with a PSM Failure warning. I turned the car off and figured I'd address it when I redid the drive shaft.

    so with the shaft arriving today I went again last night to start the car up, check the tires and what not as I'll be driving it a few blocks to my mech. buddy with the lift. again the car acted completely dead until i did the left right reinsert thing with the key. i proceeded to start the car and it sounded "different" and then I was presented with PSM warning and a brand new ABS FAILURE WORKSHOP. error. I started the car 3 or four times after that and never heard the odd startup. however the electrical system is acting strange like it did the last time i had a battery issue. the ABS warning scared the crap out of me until i started reading about potential causes.

    Could the bad/low battery ) mine has 2 batteries) really cause that much havoc in systems? Even though car started and drove normally? brakes were good and everything SEEMED normal except for the warnings. I am buying a new battery even though mine is not that old but it was DEF. dead and didn't seem interested in taking a charge from my trickle charger. If it turns out to be bad/low battery causing havoc, should the various systems reset after it gets good juice?

    ideas? thanks very much in advance!

    John


  7. a couple of Q's for all you smart guys...

    I have an 04CS sitting @ 95k miles. The regular maintenance has been done, coolant pipes, plugs, coils, belts, etc... and overall the car is solid, However, 2 issues have recently cropped up:

    1. about 4 hours after the CS went naked. i started smelling a gasoline smell from the drivers side rear wheel well. upon inspection you can see where gasoline has seeped, albeit very slowly, from the hole in the gas tank cover and my gas mileage has dropped dramatically. I THINK its the connections or flange on that side of the gas tank and it looks like the access panel under the back seat is the way to go at it but not totally sure that's where I should begin looking. ideas? is this common? expensive? (attached a pic)

    2. I now have a CEL for P0491-Secondary Air Injection System and the F4 fuse was blown. Just to be sure it wasn't an isolated event I replaced the fuse and it promptly blew. I'm not really sure where to begin looking for the problem and I'm a pretty good ways from a shop. Is this a serious problem ? can the car be driven until it's repaired? expensive?

    no other codes or problems and the only performance diff. I've noticed is upon start it a little sluggish at low rpm's

    post-49345-0-69626000-1346789188.jpg

    thanks for any help you can give. you guys are the best!


  8. Could someone direct me to a DIY for changing the pads front/rear on a 04CS? I really can't bring myself to pay someone $1000 bucks for that (which is what my local dealer wants). I know it can't be that hard... I would also like to know materials/parts needed (sensors?) and what pads you all recommend. ( oem or aftermarket)

    thanks for the help!

    Also... I just spoke with an "independent" repair guy and he said that you're supposed to REPLACE the rotors at the same time as the pads ???? I have never seen that mentioned in any of the brake threads on here. sounds a little fishy to me.


  9. My Cayenne S has a couple of strange things going on I was hoping someone can help me out with. Mileage is right at 84 k

    1. Occasionally when I pull to a stop or slow down almost completely stopped ( like rolling through a stop sign :rolleyes:, I hear a single "thump" that seems to come from underneath the front passanger seats. It's not all the time and is always a single thump... any ideas? something loose down there perhaps? what should I check?

    2 My key FOB's have BOTH stopped working. but one "actual key" will start the car, my other key will unlock it but will not start the car and gives a message on the screen that I can't recall exactly (needs programmed? expensive?) Also, for some reason when I unlock the car, my alarm goes off IMMEDIATELY, instead of the usual 20-30 seconds if I don't insert the key. not sure why this changed all of a sudden.

    3. My instrument cluster LCD has been acting strange for a while... image kinda shakes and some of the data normally present is not legible. ( this comes and goes ) and I notice it more during the day. Every thing is nice and bright in the evening/night

    4. i have the crazy servo thing in my dash... sometimes it sounds like something is alive in there. Is there a way to fix that? I do have some extended warranty but not sure if it would be covered. in conjuntion, the driver and passenger have seperat temp controls on the ac but the "fan speed" seems to be linked together ( seems like when I bought the car each person had control of fan speed) any way to "un-link" them?

    5 finally, need some direction on brake pads... is there a good resource for pads ( low dust ) that you can recommend?

    I'll stop there for now, thanks for any help!

    John


  10. someone suggested that I could use JB WELD and an allen wrench I don't mind wasting... Just let the allen wrench "set" in the hole... and then break it loose. Obviously the wrench would be toast. ( I have one I'd be thrilled to lose if it would work) Based on what I've read it looks like it might work even with the plug being aluminum. still no luck on the Viton washer... been all over town.:cursing:

    If you've rounded the drain plug, you've got a few options. One would be to take your dremel and notch the plug so you can get a BIG screwdriver in there and turn it. However, you run the risk of cutting into the pan by accident if you are not extremely careful, or not being able to turn it if you can't get enough force with a screwdriver.

    What I've done in the past is to get the next size down socket (or possibly even the right size if it's rounded just right) and gently hammer it onto the bolt head. You have to be very careful doing this so you don't mess up the drain plug threads. Once the socket is on good and tight, it will either turn that bolt/plug, or break the socket, and I doubt you tightened it enough to break a socket!

    Good luck!


  11. I really like your confidence... I just wish I could locate some of these. I've looked everywhere but can't find them in the size I need.

    (I still have to get the old drain plug out before I can try it) any suggestions?

    Do you own a string of McDonald's to have "berger" in your last name?

    A "maybe" solution is a lot better to try first than to spend 8+ hours removing the drain pan and spending a hefty chunk of change on a new pan and fluids. I'm confident it will work.


  12. so I've looked around but still not sure what I'm looking for ( I REALLY appreciate any help or direction) the ID on the bolt is 17mm and the OD is 22mm. (the actual aluminum crush washer is 18mm ID and 23mm OD) I've tried to find what you were talking about with those specs but no luck so far...

    more bad news... on the plug that's leaking, an 8mm hex will not grab enough to break it loose. any suggestions for removing it?

    I'll agree "it doesn't even compare" - you're suggesting to use an O ring in a crush ring application. The O ring will be crushed flat, and start to creep out of the interface between the pan and plug. The link you provided shows designs like "Flanged Head w/ rubber o-ring under head" - NOTE rubber O-ring "UNDER" head - it's a recessed O ring, that will be partly compressed when the plug metal to metal surfaces bottom out. The other designs are using a rubber coated washer - not an O ring.

    Hey - the OP can do as he wants, but from someone who designed lots of equipment that used O ring seals - using it under the existing pan bolt/crush-ring without a recess for the ring - isn't a correct application for it, and is going to fail.

    BTW - I'll have to think about adding "racer" in my username.. it seems so authoritative.

    No, I'm not suggesting to use an O-ring. It's a washer specifically made for this purpose. There's even a picture of it in the link I posted, which I guess you completely skipped over.

    Oh, and so far... don't add racer to your user name until you've earned it. :rolleyes:


  13. thanks for the info guys... I have a couple of new drain plugs on the way as the one that are on the pan are a rounded out too much to use again. I actually may have some trouble getting the leaking one out, and will probably have to use some kind of "ease out" to remove it.( anyone had this problem? any trick to getting it out without tearing anything up?)

    Do you know where I can find a washer(s) like this that would be the right size? the little town I'm in does not have them.

    Use of a viton washer is a bad idea. You don't see this sort of seal anyplace on an aluminum block engine for a reason - the expansion/contraction of the aluminum will make that washer creep out from the aluminum crush washer.

    It's the pan, not the block. The area of the drain plug isn't going to be susceptible to expansion/contraction. Viton will work just fine, it's already being used as valve stem seals and other higher temp, moving part areas. A drain plug doesn't even compare.

    http://www.dupontela...asp?article=BMW

    If you scroll down here, you can see they actually make viton/metal oil plug washers.

    http://www.oildrainplug.com/index.htm


  14. that's kinda what I was thinking... kind of a flat washer that would "fill in the gaps"

    great idea thanks for the suggestion. I was up all night, kept having this dream where I just couldn't keep the oil from POURING out of the engine.... I'm talking gallons. weird

    Go to an automotive store and pick up a viton washer. It will conform to the gouges and seal the leak. Viton is used for sealing fuel injectors, so it will hold up as drain plug gasket.

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