Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
What has your Porsche Service Center said in regards to the rust... No question the rust is extreme, are you sure the shocks are original equipment? I think you'll have to suck it up and have the shocks replaced at your expense. There's always associated cost with owning any car, let alone a Porsche. Wayne Dempsey's book "101 projects for your Porsche" says you could spend up to $3,000 and 20 hours to replace the shocks, bushing, tie rods, , sway bar and associated hardware. If you're a DIY hands on it might be a good project. Dempsey's book would would walk you through the task.
creekman started following Looking at buying a 1999 Carrera Convertible - Ideas?, Front suspension 996 4S with high corrosion, 04 4S Cab. Fuel door is jammed and won’t open. and and 5 others
Liberato, I think your expectations are rather high... Porsche can't be responsible for how a 15 year plus car has been maintained. Are you the original owner, or have you just recently purchased the car? Either way I think your observation is correct, replace the shocks. Looks like a nice car, enjoy it...
I would clean your air controller and MAF sensor.. I had occasional dash lights on my Escalade and the mechanic said he would clean the controller and sure enough it cured the problem. No more error lights and it also remedy the rear cargo door witch was non-op about half the time. Can't hurt anything, I used brake, fast dry...
I see you have an LS3 996. I have a 997 with a pile of scrap metal in the back, and was considering replacing it with an LS3. I've been trying to find some decent and honest reviews as to the drive ability and character of the car once the swap has been completed. Most of what I've found is from half assed conversions from budding you tube stars or from the guys that profit from doing the installs (renegade hybrids).
Any thoughts, concerns, cautions, encouragements ect from you will be very welcome information. Thanks in advance.
Wow, I never knew that, great information to pass on... I'll certainly look to find the release. OK, assuming the solenoid is bad how do you get to that if you don't have a Bentley's book?
I can't imagine how the fuel door could be jammed since it's a simple hinge operation. Was the car lock when you tried to open the gas door? There's a sliding bolt that secures the gas door when the car is locked. Maybe if the car is not locked the sliding bolt is stuck? Why don't you get a second person to lock and unlock the doors while you gently bang on the gas door.
Easy peasy... Just take a 18 ga. wire, more or less by 4"- 5" more or less and find 2 female spade connectors that fit over the 2 exposed male terminals. Make up the pigtail with the 2 female spade connectors, install and you have now defeated the clutch safety switch. I'll replace the switch, but for now its a quick fix. Is yours broken... the only advantage I can see is you can start the car without getting in, better have the E-brake set and the trans in neutral. One last comment, if you reach in and start the car, then turn it off reaching through the open window you'll have a dead battery by the next morning. You have to open and close the door for the computer to shut down the interior lights. I'm not sure if all years worked the same way, but that's how my '03' C4S works. I have had a dead battery to prove it... Try it yourself and see if the interior lights time out just reaching through the open window.
I didn't know that... thanks,
Andrew, Electrical is the least of my talents... but for whatever it's worth wire size depends on distance as well as loads. You're only talking about moving the switches 18"-24"? You would probably be ok using the same wire size, but to cover you self you bump up the wire size. If the roof actuator motor was on a relay then I don't think you have a worry to use the same size wire. My 2 cents... There must be a 'sparky' out there that can give you a yea or ney...
I've had my woes with installing the headlight assemblies. On the left side I broke the plastic plug support the right side I couldn't get the directional light to work all the time. Finally figured out the headlight assembly wasn't seating in the plug properly, bought a new tray and that took care of the problem. Mating the assembly with the plug always seems like a vague proposition too me, you're relying on a lot of plastic for alignment. I think you've answered your own question, I would remove the headlight assembly and see if that stops the battery drain. Like you said check the plug for bent pins, be sure you haven't broken the plastic plug support. On my 2003 C4 it's a rather fragile hoop that retains the plug. If you didn't have a problem before and now you do it must be some problem with the plug? Let us know what you find... And congratulations on posting on the forum...
Thanks, Your input is always appreciated, I know the members are grateful for your contributions... At Porsche Dealer hourly repair costs you have probably saved us poor folks hundred of thousands of dollars. You're the best...
I've had a drain for sometime, at least I think I do... the battery will stay charged for about a week... I finally attached permanently a pigtail for a quick connect to a Battery Minder charger. Thanks for the info, I'll check out what I've got. I've done it before, but did not wait the 45 minutes.
creekman replied to smak's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I've got a used 58,000 mile differential that I took out of my 2003 car, I'd sell it for $300 FOB Fredericksburg, TX.
What about flying, then drive the car home... if you feel reasonably comfortable with your due diligence... The trouble with that is the seller knows he's got ya so you better have all your ducks in a row before you hope that jet... That's how I brought my car home, it was a memorable drive, 19 hours straight through. Is your seller a dealer or private party? Maybe you can find a local Porsche person to look at it. For a fee you can find an agent that will do a pre-buy for you as well. When you say a 9 hour drive is that one way? I'd ask for a 100 pictures, maybe not a 100, but with an i-phone pictures are no big deal. I'd still start out with a CarFax then work your way down the food chain. The annual mileage is really low, which can be a good thing, but it must be a cream puff because it spent a lot of time sitting. Just remember there's a lot of Porsches for sale, you might be better off to find one locally. Although anything locally will have been driven in the snow? Or do most owner's put there car up in winter storage? Keep us posted, it's an interest dilema... Oh, is this going to be a Sunday go meeting car or D/D? Sorry for rambling, another idea is to see if your seller will meet you half way to reduce your drive time. If he's hot to trot he might go for that...
I would spend the money for a CarFax report... Ask to see the paperwork for service and repairs. Go through every knob and accessory to be sure everything works. If something doesn't it doesn't mean you're not buying the car, but can be a negotiating tool for a better price.