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creekman last won the day on July 15 2019

creekman had the most liked content!

About creekman

  • Birthday 09/11/1936

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2003 PORSCHE C2S - LS3 480HP V8
  • Former cars
    1984 Porsche Turbo Look
    1953 Porsche coupe
    1958 Porsche Convertible"D"
    1958 Porsche GT 4 Cam Speedster
    1964 Porsche SC Coupe
    1976 Porsche 914 - 2.0
    1956 300SL Gull Wing
    1958 300SL Roadster
    4 Ferrari's
    3 MGTC's
    A few more interesting cars.

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  1. Jon, The color, everything was perfect, great looking car... I think our cars are under appreciated... The one thought I had was the short shifter by Porsche was better made than what I took out... I've driven the car without the stuck in neutral problem several times. The shift and trans are silky smooth and with my extra HP I never abuse the shift or clutch. I appreciate the comments, all good. Mitch
  2. Right now I have another car on the lift, as soon as I can move it I'll put the Porsche on and really see if I can find out what's going on. We have had a second guy (long time mechanic) under the car while we went through the gears and found no problem at the trans. However, I still feel like there's a lot of play at the rod ends. Just in passing, I still love my car, I think the styling has help up well considering it's an 18 year old car. When you think about all the features the car has and the road going capabilities it makes for a mile stone car IMHO. It still looks current as oppose to my '84' Turbo Look which became dated. At least in my eyes... Thanks, Loren, Jon and Flanders for the replies... Mitch
  3. Hmmm, I don't remember the alignment tool. The transaxle was gone through when I changed the ring and pinion 7-8 years ago. It shifts like a hot knife through butter. But on those occasions when you're shifting from one gear to the next the shifter hits a brick wall. I can sit in the garage (engine not running) and shift it without depressing the clutch and the shift is silky smooth. There's a lot of movement on the rod ends at the transaxle... Are the shift cable rod ends replaceable, do they wear? I'm pretty positive I'm good inside the transaxle. Thanks Loren for the reply... I'm glad you're still on the job...
  4. I haven't found any repeating circumstances, but I might have been too busy trying to get it back in gear. I thought it might be the rod ends at the transmission, but after looking them over we put that aside. I have a Porsche short shifter for a number of years with no problem. It's like there's a foreign object and the shift mechanism bottoms out on the obstruction. I pulled the shifter cover and looked at the shifter and it appeared to be good. It's a bad feeling when your in traffic and the car won't go... Anybody have an idea what I might look at? Thanks
  5. Joe, how lucky we are to have members like you that contribute so much to the enjoyment of our cars... Thanks,
  6. 2003 996 C4S JFP, Jon and Loren... many thanks for the support and direction. I removed the battery and panel all looked good, I also removed the top hat cover next to the bulkhead on the trunk side, again no tell tale signs of cracks there either. I guess next will be to look at the charcoal canister and gas fill check valve. I think I'll change out the charcoal canister first. 6 years ago when I installed the LS3 V8 I had a problem connecting up the charcoal canister to the new conversion. A friend of mine from the airport holds certificates on welding, A/C, Electrical, Diesel engines on unlimited tonnage for ships. He's a civilian contractor hired by the navy to be in charge of maintenance on big ships... Where he goes is always a secret. This guy will always be the smartest person in the room... Anyway the Porsche might still be sitting in the garage if he hadn't figured out how the system worked. Took him 30 minutes to draw out the system and 10 minutes to change some hoses. But the charcoal canister had been full of gas, but the system has never given me a lick of trouble since, so long story short, that is why I might start with the canister... Loren, say again how you assign points... Thanks
  7. I put the car on the lift and removed the belly pans... I was hoping that would find the source of my stinky gas smell once the belly pans were removed. Nope, no stains on the belly pans and no wet hoses. So I guess the next step is to check/replace the fill pipe check valve and or the charcoal canister. Can anyone tell me if the check valve is stuck open will the car run fine and could be the source of my gas fumes... If there's a problem with the check valve will it show up on my Durametric program? Thanks,
  8. Do you have a TPS... Throttle position sensor or because your throttle body is cable driven you do not... Can you manually pull the throttle back to an idle either at the pedal or throttle body... I have a similar problem, but properly not related. I replaced the TPS and throttle body, now it takes several ,minutes for the engine to return to idle...
  9. Jon, That's a good idea to step back before throwing a lot parts at the car. I have my T-Bird restomod project on the lift right now. To do it right I need to drop down the belly pans for a good once over. Speaking of belly pans... Here's a tip if you're tired of replacing the belly pan brackets/retainer clamps. I used aircraft loose nut plates and riveted them to the braces.
  10. The fumes went away, now there back with a vengeance... I changed the gas cap which was cheap and worth a try, what are the possible choices? 1. Per 356, check for hairline cracks in the gas tank sending unit... 2. Per Judgejon, replace the check valve behind the right side fender liner. 3. Could the charcoal canister be full. Where is the charcoal canister? 4. Can this problem be identified with my Durametric program... Thanks, all replies will be appreciated... Mitch
  11. Jon, The Bride of Frankenstein would blow the doors off your ''409'... With a taller ring and pinion she clocks out on paper at 206 MPH at redline in 6th gear, but not with me in it... On an earlier post I mentioned that the idler pulley bolt backing out which is not good... If you ever have to replace that bolt I would recommend using loctite.
  12. Joe, I know I'm in dangerous territory pushing this conversion, but it's been a fun to drive car, gooobs of power and reliable. My point Joe is the electrical was the most challenging part of the conversion snd was a major expense to get it done right. It does bring together different parts, but the word Frankenstein might be a little over the top... Today the after market people have develop easier programs that tend to be plug and play where as 8 years ago you better have your Phd in order...
  13. No, I believe both ECU's have their own job... The Conversion utilized the GM gas pedal, so like you I was surprised when the Porsche OBD port cancelled the check light. It has been years since I hooked up the Durametric program, but I did today with these results... I just thought I need to see if I can date when these codes were thrown... At the top of the attachment it says, "Current /Fault Codes. I want to get to the bottom of this pretty quick, I've never have been flat bedded home so far. I did get stuck in Winslow, AZ for one night with the original engine. The idler pulley bolt backed out, a local towing service came out with his flatbed, took me to the Chrysler dealer, charged me $85.. They had the Porsche dealer in a neighboring town overnight the parts. I was on the road again by 10:00 the next morning... All in all it was a memorable experience and meant some nice people. \
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