roadsession

beautiful color combo!

PLS do others a favor for safety's sake and name the seller

do a search on "ignition switch"

$1400 per year. Clean records. But I live in Boston - in the city...so...

+1 what a beauty

Road session, not sure who your search was directed to but your search result was my old post! OP asked if the Guibo from a cayene would fit and I can find no reference to that on this site so a search would have turned up nothing....

ahh you're right :)

I have never heard of a reset fixing a grinding noise.

me neither.

but read the TSB 3701

The reason for this is the adaptation of the torque converter lockup clutch in the Tiptronic control unit. If the car is driven in a restrained manner or is frequently driven in stop-and-go traffic, the Tiptronic control module adapts itself to unfavourable values that cause the grinding/rattling noises.

The "fix" is to install a new Tiptronic control unit with modified software. The newer control module has the part number 996.618.180.04 (or greater). The latest part number 996.618.180.07 or newer. This TCU ensures that it never learns this 'bad behaviour'. The other cheaper route is to reflash TCU and drive more aggressively...

how did you reset the adaptation values?

Dealer used a PIWIS. Because I did the diagnosis - tech did the reset for free, and bought me an ice tea too :)

Happy to report the Michelin Pilot A/S Plus performed just fine this winter through the worst boston winter in memory.

Snow was no problem

Ice was - well not great.

Dry weather - absolutely planted.

Michelin Pilot Sport for summer

I put on Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus and I love it.

Went through worst Boston winter in history just fine.

I was getting this exact symptom:

Grinding / rattling noise accelerating from stand still or in 3rd gear at lower speeds.

I thought my transmission was toast - all the other posts on here talked about needing to replace the transmission.

I read the TSB on here about needing a new TCU which costs $1700.

So I took the chance and reset TCU adaptation values and transmission is perfect now.

Shifts are quicker

Car is more responsive

I reckon the TCU learned 'bad things' when i was goosing the car during the break-in period of the new engine...

search is your friend:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/36862-cardan-shaft-rubber-bushing/page__p__195387__hl__%2Bcardan+%2Bshaft__fromsearch__1#entry195387

2002 C4

Becker

Type: CCR 220

BE 6624

Serial 15004616

Gyorgy

I agree with Dharn, except the part about getting PPI done at selling dealer.

I think if it is an authorized Porsche dealer that is selling the car, getting them to do a PPI should be fine...They have an official factory sheet that they use for PPI's that is similar to the sheet they use for CPO'ing the car.

I bought my car at Porsche Danbury and their PPI work sheet was 5 pages long of diagnostics etc - and looked just like their CPO checklist.

But please make sure you do get a Pre-Purchase Inspection done.

Hi guys

So as you know I had the new engine installed about a month ago.

But after a month and only accumulating 110 miles I decided to drive to NYC and back this weekend and run an errand for my wife to get her up to 500 miles.

Start of the drive:

It was a truly painful drive over there to limit her to 4K RPM tops.

Almost there on the drive back!

And then the magic mark:

So a few questions:

is the break-in 500 miles?

What else do I need to do now that I've passed it

I don't think the problem is the roof.

The problem is that the window doesn't seem to come up high enough.

You may have a problem with the window regulator that's not raising the window properly.

ahh. that would make sense...good luck - let us know!

I had to have my cardan shaft replaced for the exact same reason.

It is a complete new assembly. 996 part is now superseded by a 997 part.

99742102001

Well, while I haven't heard of any of the LN retrofit bearings failing, there is still a potential for that to fail causing great damage to the engine. Even Charles recommends that that bearing be replaced every time the gearbox comes off. This also makes no mention of things like cylinder wall failures, collapsed lifters, worn out lifter trays, cracked heads- all things which qualify as "major problems." I think it's pretty clear in the fact that the GT2 and GT3 engines are STILL built on the old GT1 case halves, as Porsche KNOWS that those don't blow up.

In closing, let's just say that the company who brought you the 996 and Boxster is NOT the same company who brought you the 930.

nice try to try to have the 'last word'.

So let me put it this way. If Porsche remained the same company that brought you the 930, it would have been out of business 10 years ago - and there'd be no modern Porsche and no forums like this etc etc. You'd have a bunch of old timers doting over their aircooled machines and talking about the 'good old days' and lamenting the loss of a niche car manufacturer named Porsche.

Porsche sold over 700,000 M96 engine derivative cars. Yes, a very small percentage of those engines have failed (including mine) - but most haven't.

If a M96 and m97.1 engine scares you - DON'T BUY IT or DRIVE IT.

If you want to enjoy a fantastic sports car that sells for $30K or so used - buy it.

But don't waste your time on a 996 forum bashing it.

The answer is yes.

The search tool is your friend:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/33221-99-carrera-convertible-top/page__p__176304__hl__pentosin__fromsearch__1#entry176304

What's a fair price for 2002-03 996 in the SF bay area? I have checked local listings and found prices range from mid $20k to over $30k.

I know it all depends on the model and condition but there isn't a clear difference among C2 coupe, targa or cab, or even C4. Assuming the condition is good/avg., what price should I aim at? There seems to be quite some 996's for sale in CA.

i think if you find something in the mid 30's you'll likely find it to be cleaner and require less work.

good luck.

I LOVE my car.

gusmagoo - i found the work order:

996-426-044-52 Selector Cable

mine was very worn (I have 2002 C4)

When my engine was replaced recently, the tech found that the tip shift bushings and linkage was worn. That may be the culprit.

I heard there are aftermarket IMS bearing fixes that can prevent this kind of engine blowup. The part costs from $150 (Pelican Parts) and $500-600 (LN engineering), but the installation costs a few grand. :cursing:

Anyway for a few grand the engine blowup can be avoided as well as the $10-20k cost for a new/reman engine.

yes that's right. About $2K to install a LN Engineering IMS bearing

Ask him to take a look at the oil filter or oil pan for any metal flakes.

If the IMS bearing is going - it's VERY evident in the filter.

Thanks Maurice.. They are even cheaper now....

So :

dismantler quoted $15K for a USED 2004 996 engine with 18K miles.

Dealer was $16K for a NEW / REMAN engine