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Sorry to hear that - still a lot better outcome than a new cluster.
Henry's is here: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?searc...p;zipcode=95120
HenryV started following Do frequent oil changes hurt the motor?, July 28, 2007 - Saturday - Work On Cars - San Jose, Glass window top replacement and and 7 others
HenryV replied to JimPDX's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Once you spin, you keep spinning -- Boxster owner's beware http://forums.corvetteforum.com/archive/in...p/t-811032.html Baton - high polar moment The ultimate low polar moment device is a yoyo :)
https://secure.niello.com/cgi/porsche/build_2005c4s P11 Self-Dim Mirrors & Rain Sensor Self-Dimming Side and Rearview Mirrors. Includes integrated rain sensor with six-stage control for automatic wiper interval $705 https://secure.niello.com/cgi/porsche/build_2005c2s 267 Self Dimming Mirrors $385 Go for it - should be rearview and driver side sideview. Don't know about passenger side unless you have the memory option (package only?) I think the rearview mirror should be standard on all cars, especially on pricey cars. If you ever had a car with it you would never want a car without it. Autodimming rearview mirror is a must, side mirrors are a maybe. If you position your sideview mirror correctly, you should never see the car behind you, but only the car besides you - and as long as you are in the fast lane, there is only the center divider. I have coated sideview mirrors in another car, and it suffices. I also like the memory position of the mirrors (rearview and sidemirror), handy especially when you have multiple drivers. Don't know if Porsche has the autotilt in reverse - that is a very useful feature to have.
Great it worked out. Credits go to Toolpants. Like you, I knew little about this stuff, and was actually referred to Jeff by the parts department at the local dealership as he could probably answer some of my questions 'better' than they could. Since then I have seen my share of P-cars, and you pick up a think or two along the way.
Hi GW - yes, the adjustment for litronics is the same as for non-litronics - see page 229 and 230 of your (european) manual or pages 236 and 237 of your (us) manual. European and US cars have a different beam pattern, but adjusting them is similar. Your litronics are leveled when the ignition is on (engine does not have to run) and the low beams are on. The manual recommends someone sit in the driver seat, load up the tank, start the car, roll forward (level surface), and let the car settle. Adjusting them is then the same as aftermarket litronics that just go to the 'default' position. I find it useful to follow their procedures in front of a garage door to 'dial' them in, and then find a dark street to adjust them for 'vision'. To explain this: the recommended instructions keep the beam aimed (well) below the front bumper of oncoming traffic. With a little adjusting, you can set them such that they light up (bottom of) the license plates of oncoming traffic. A little higher and you would blind them (beams actually begins to point upwards). It is very tricky to get them right so you don't blind oncoming traffic, but still have forward visibility. But also rewarding.
The adjustments for litronics are the same as for standard headlights - see the manual. There are two screws, accessible from the trunk that control vertical and horizontal alignment. If you cannot adjust the beams to where you think they should be aimed at, then you may want to take the assembly apart. I know of at least 4 units that had one of the gymbal jump out of its socket (easy, but tricky DIY fix), and one unit where the gymbal housing had cracked (needed replacement - new unit). Like Jeff says - the low beams rotate up when you turn on the high beams and stay on. The high beams also light up. If your car has the headlight washers, the units came standard, and they should be self-leveling. If aftermarket, they behave like regular lights. If your car has the headlight washers you may have to check the self-leveling mechanism. It may have been dialed in wrong.
We don't know the statistics - the RMS leak is somewhat notorious and affects a certain percentage, the engine replacement seems to be quite a bit lower. The engine failure for 97-99 models is very rare, and people have been treated quite well by Porsche if it did happen. It wouldn't be such a nuisance if the cost was somewhat reasonable - I replaced two engines in two previous cars for less than $2,000 each. To do the same in the Boxster costs an estimated $8,000-$12,000 if done at the dealer, and aftermarket mechanics are much harder to come by. Like Jeff says, check whether the car has oil at the lowest part of the engine (at the transmission side), and check the dealer records -- most dealers can search whether and when RMS replacements were done if you give them the VIN number. If the car is dry and RMS replacements are either non-existent, or were done a while ago - assume the car is fine. If the car is wet or the RMS replacement was recent (i.e. weeks), be alerted. I'd probably pass in the second case. Many boxsters do reach 100,000 mile without engine failures, even if they have had RMS replacements. FWIW, many '03 and '04 have had RMS failures, and even the newly redesigned '05 (both 997 and 987) are rumored to (will?) have RMS failures and engine failures.
HenryV replied to C4S Surgeon's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)RMS replacement is relatively cheap - $800 or so, mainly labor. It is not the RMS replacement, it is what causes the RMS leak. If it is just a leaky seal, the replacement is a snap and just some money. If it is a leaky seal because the engine is misaligned and working the seal loose, it will lead to engine replacement (or failure). Luckily, for most of us, it is just a leaky seal, and you could even drive with the leak for a while if you choose so.
Clogged fuel filter? When the engine is cold, the fuel mixture is enriched (choke), hiding the problem. As the engine warms up the fuel mixture is leaner, exposing the problem. This should be most noticable when you are higher revving (with a warm engine), e.g. on the freeway or accelerating - do you notice a loss of power?
HenryV replied to WolfgangK's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I guess it is worth a try on the passenger door. Either way, I'd take it back to the dealer. Maybe it is a simple programming reset they can do, or otherwise diagnose (and replace) a fault in the system.
The boxsters tend to be more reliable than similar cars of the same vintage, coupled with often lower mileage than the comparison cars. Little is known above 100k miles, as most boxsters have not yet reached that. The few that did seem to be just fine. If the car has a decent owner (decent driver), who maintained the car properly it is like any used car - there will be repairs at times. Largest nuisance for '97 to '99 models have been the engine misalignment (RMS leak -> engine replacement), plastic window cracking/fading -> leading to window replacement, top-mechanism failing -> leading to top replacement, clutch needing replacement, battery replacement (every 4th year), but statistics are unknown (low?). '97s do not accept 18" wheels without retrofit. Generally, cars without performance modifications (drivetrain, suspension, engine) tend to be more reliable (factory spec). Many performance mods have caused 'glitches' in electronics, wear and tear, and point towards more aggressive drivers - usually correlating to a more deteriorated car. One owner cars are likewise better cared for than lease- or multi-owner cars. (and may have more options). As with anything mechanical, all problems are fixable. You'll notice that Porsche repairs, dealer or aftermarket, tends to be a bit more pricey than mainstay cars - both in pricing of OEM parts and in the amount of labor often required to do simple repairs (due to Porsche 'no compromise design'). But then again, it's a bargain compared to Ferrari maintenance. The best thing here is that your depreciation will be low. There's also something called 'permagrin'. This comes free with driving the car. Thinking how much less you pay when compared to the previous owners will make up for any nuisances, and strengthen your 'permagrin'.
I'd check the mounting of the front trunk lid. Most likely the lid came up under decelleration and this is known to cause a whistling noise (usually at lower speeds). When you have the whistling noise, you can adjust the lid to avoid the whistle - make shure the bumper 'lip' is positioned above the lid edge when closed. I suggest that in your case the lid just came up momentarily, sufficient to cause the whistle noise. You could position it lower to reduce this effect. Feel whether it has any slack or 'give' when locked. As to why the passenger side seemed to be the source I don't know. Possible the rubbers form a better seal at the driver's side?