Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by HenryV

  1. Sorry to hear that - still a lot better outcome than a new cluster.
  2. Henry's is here: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?searc...p;zipcode=95120
  3. So much for Porsche engineering - this looks much simpler than the OEM solution - and backwards compatible. Can't tell from the picture, but the glass window seems larger also :clapping:
  4. Once you spin, you keep spinning -- Boxster owner's beware http://forums.corvetteforum.com/archive/in...p/t-811032.html Baton - high polar moment The ultimate low polar moment device is a yoyo :)
  5. https://secure.niello.com/cgi/porsche/build_2005c4s P11 Self-Dim Mirrors & Rain Sensor Self-Dimming Side and Rearview Mirrors. Includes integrated rain sensor with six-stage control for automatic wiper interval $705 https://secure.niello.com/cgi/porsche/build_2005c2s 267 Self Dimming Mirrors $385 Go for it - should be rearview and driver side sideview. Don't know about passenger side unless you have the memory option (package only?) I think the rearview mirror should be standard on all cars, especially on pricey cars. If you ever had a car with it you would never want a c
  6. Great it worked out. Credits go to Toolpants. Like you, I knew little about this stuff, and was actually referred to Jeff by the parts department at the local dealership as he could probably answer some of my questions 'better' than they could. Since then I have seen my share of P-cars, and you pick up a think or two along the way.
  7. Hi GW - yes, the adjustment for litronics is the same as for non-litronics - see page 229 and 230 of your (european) manual or pages 236 and 237 of your (us) manual. European and US cars have a different beam pattern, but adjusting them is similar. Your litronics are leveled when the ignition is on (engine does not have to run) and the low beams are on. The manual recommends someone sit in the driver seat, load up the tank, start the car, roll forward (level surface), and let the car settle. Adjusting them is then the same as aftermarket litronics that just go to the 'default' position.
  8. The adjustments for litronics are the same as for standard headlights - see the manual. There are two screws, accessible from the trunk that control vertical and horizontal alignment. If you cannot adjust the beams to where you think they should be aimed at, then you may want to take the assembly apart. I know of at least 4 units that had one of the gymbal jump out of its socket (easy, but tricky DIY fix), and one unit where the gymbal housing had cracked (needed replacement - new unit). Like Jeff says - the low beams rotate up when you turn on the high beams and stay on. The high beams al
  9. We don't know the statistics - the RMS leak is somewhat notorious and affects a certain percentage, the engine replacement seems to be quite a bit lower. The engine failure for 97-99 models is very rare, and people have been treated quite well by Porsche if it did happen. It wouldn't be such a nuisance if the cost was somewhat reasonable - I replaced two engines in two previous cars for less than $2,000 each. To do the same in the Boxster costs an estimated $8,000-$12,000 if done at the dealer, and aftermarket mechanics are much harder to come by. Like Jeff says, check whether the car has
  10. RMS replacement is relatively cheap - $800 or so, mainly labor. It is not the RMS replacement, it is what causes the RMS leak. If it is just a leaky seal, the replacement is a snap and just some money. If it is a leaky seal because the engine is misaligned and working the seal loose, it will lead to engine replacement (or failure). Luckily, for most of us, it is just a leaky seal, and you could even drive with the leak for a while if you choose so.
  11. Clogged fuel filter? When the engine is cold, the fuel mixture is enriched (choke), hiding the problem. As the engine warms up the fuel mixture is leaner, exposing the problem. This should be most noticable when you are higher revving (with a warm engine), e.g. on the freeway or accelerating - do you notice a loss of power?
  12. I guess it is worth a try on the passenger door. Either way, I'd take it back to the dealer. Maybe it is a simple programming reset they can do, or otherwise diagnose (and replace) a fault in the system.
  13. The boxsters tend to be more reliable than similar cars of the same vintage, coupled with often lower mileage than the comparison cars. Little is known above 100k miles, as most boxsters have not yet reached that. The few that did seem to be just fine. If the car has a decent owner (decent driver), who maintained the car properly it is like any used car - there will be repairs at times. Largest nuisance for '97 to '99 models have been the engine misalignment (RMS leak -> engine replacement), plastic window cracking/fading -> leading to window replacement, top-mechanism failing ->
  14. I'd check the mounting of the front trunk lid. Most likely the lid came up under decelleration and this is known to cause a whistling noise (usually at lower speeds). When you have the whistling noise, you can adjust the lid to avoid the whistle - make shure the bumper 'lip' is positioned above the lid edge when closed. I suggest that in your case the lid just came up momentarily, sufficient to cause the whistle noise. You could position it lower to reduce this effect. Feel whether it has any slack or 'give' when locked. As to why the passenger side seemed to be the source I don't know.
  15. The AC unit is small and mounts in either slot in the lower console. The face-plate you have is for a standard slot, meaning only the upper slot in the lower console will fit. The dealer can get you a smaller faceplace to make it fit in the lower part of the lower console. But ask around the useability of the cup holders - I've been hearing that drinks tend to fall out of them, and owners have been moving the AC unit up (after removing the drink holders). Found this pic of the unit mounted in the lower slot -
  16. Couple of thoughts, 1. the LED on the dash should be either off (no alarm), blinking (alarm active) or blinking rapidly (alarm triggered). That should give you a first indicator. 2. After five days, you should be able to unlock the driver's side door with the key without triggering the alarm. After unlocking, without taking the key out, you can push the 'key' button on the key head. This should restart the remote alarm capabilities. 3. Alternatively, after unlocking, by locking and unlocking the door with the key you should be able to turn off the alarm as well. 4. Check the batteries
  17. The door panel lights are not the footwell lights - see picture. Factory installed they do come with a switch and cost $700+. DIY takes some work, but cost about $20. DIY does not need a switch - you can hook them directly into your dome light wiring, so the footwell lights dim with the dome light and need no seperate switch (the dome light is the switch). I used the 10W trunk-lights. I replaced the 10W with a 5W bulb (takes some soldering) for a much nicer effect. They are mounted a bit lower than stock, just to make it an easier fitment.
  18. This is just the PET software. Technically, yes, it has MSRP pricing available (I don't have this installed). I recommend to call places such as Sunset Imports (Oregon - 800-311-4858), they charge about 40% less than the local dealers for the same (OEM) parts.
  19. There's a plastic lid on the other side, behind the hinge. Pull the visor up, you'll see the lid outline. Insert a small screwdriver to pop open the lid (it opens away from you, towards window). You'll find a single torx screw underneath it. If you have the illuminated visors, there will be a wire attached in the rear. Note, if you have a newer model, 03 and up, there is just a single torx screw at each end.
  20. Unclear which one you want - any on this pic?
  21. The clock spring is just a connector to the airbag. The wiring is coiled up (about 6 feet or so) that allows you to rotate the steering wheel from all the way left to all the way right. If you open up the unit, the coil will jump out at you, and putting it back in is a nuisance. More important, you have to find the 'midpoint' again, otherwise you'll either create too much slack, or tension when rotating the steering wheel. To prevent this rotation from occuring, the tensioner spring (silver left in first pic), will keep the coil centered when removed from the steering shaft (The steering wheel
  22. 6 RMS fixes is highly unusual. Here (in California) it could mean one of the following: 1. Dealer mechanic not following the right procedure correctly 2. Engine out of spec 3. Dealer/Porsche not courteous 4. Driving style and frequency, temperature, other conditions? To 1. We have been told by several sources, that the "new" seal and "new" replacement method has a very high success rate of stopping the RMS from re-occuring. I know of several people (including myself) who have been 'dry' after this "new" method. To 2. Dealer should show you the alignment measures (they are requir
  23. Could the shaft be expanding when warmer and contracting when colder? That would explain increases noises (rubbing) when colder. It may only be tens of millimeters.
  24. The smell usually is delayed from the actual moment that caused it. Couple of things to consider: - Did you use the clutch before coming down the hill (maybe a stop sign)? - And do you push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when shifting? - And how do you release the clutch? - what is the typical RPM upon release? - Do you accelerate (push gas pedal) prior to fully releasing clutch pedal? You may have a tight clutch cable, so the clutch doesn't quite, or maybe just barely, disengage. Alternative is that you have a habit of 'slipping' the clutch, i.e. coming up a little,
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.