Nehmaiz

I never updated this thread regarding the problem. after a lot of investigations, it turned out that due to the high resistance on the starter cable it has burned the starter motor as well. part of the starter cable had melted down and that's what was preventing startup when the car was warm... now i'm having the same problem again. anyone else had this problem, why is it recurring? is the workshop not doing something properly? attached are pictures of the old starter and starter cable.

I'm getting a strong smell from the left front wheel arch, very evident after a long drive. we don't have cold weather here, any fuel lines pass through that area? the refill cap is on the right so don't know why the smell comes from the left wheel arch only...

I Have an 89 944 2.7L japanese spec with a 3speed automatic gearbox. it's engine needs a top and bottom end rebuild so considering swapping the engine instead of rebuilding it, as costs are approximately the same. i found a 3.0L engine from a 968, i know many parts of that engine are different from the 2.7L engine, but will the engine management and 3 speed transmission of my old 2.7L engine work with this new engine? might be a silly question but i want to be sure before buying this long block 3.0L engine. many thanks!!

03 C4S 6sp Manual 117,000 KM Anyone have a DYI guide or step by step instructions on how to replace the A/C compressor on a 996? i've tried searching the site and the internet, didn't have much luck... Thanks, Nehme :thankyou:

03 C4s 117K KM I recently started hearing a jingle coming from the engine bay, so i removed the airbox and belt and checked the pulleys, A/C clutch bearing definitely giving way.... AC blows Ice cold though, so i guess only the clutch needs replacement. Is it safe to drive the car for like 2 weeks until the clutch is delivered? or if the bearings of the AC clutch fail i'm in deep $hit?? if i turn on the AC in the car, does that disengage the clutch and thus risk not killin the bearings? the noise seems to be reduced when AC is On. thanks, Nehme

Interesting thread... wondering now whether to go through the trouble of changing the clutch myself or changing the whole compressor system... :S

1989 944 Japanese Spec - 3sp Auto my rear night lights are not working for some reason. i have checked the fuse box and the fuse is fine. brake lights, reverse lights, signals and license plate lights all work and have signal getting to them at the back of the car, i just can't figure out why there's no signal for rear lights coming to the back switch. any suggestions would be appreciated. many thanks, Nehme

Well I Just bought my 3rd baby, and 2nd 944 in the stable, an absolutely immaculate and all original 944 S2 with full service history. 93K KM on the clock... can't wait for it to be shipped over. cheers!

89 944 2.7L Japanese Spec I was changing a water hose on the car and had better access if i removed the spark plug wires. after changing the hose and flushing the system. i tried to start up the car only to notice the engine is misfiring... oops must've plugged the Spark plug wires wrong on the distributor cap! after getting the wiring right, the car cranks and turns over but engine does not start... did i f### up anything by mixing the wires? distributor cap i noticed is now slightly loose, i don't think that that is the problem, but after trying for 30 minutes to start the car again i dunno what to do. any help is appreciated. regards, Nehme

I've installed FABSPEED muffler bypass pipes that i bought from Ebay for 100$ that bolt on to the cats. Extremly loud and throaty, and can easily bolt on original mufflers again... over here we don't have to worry about emissions, but see no need to remove the cats for a great sound...

03 C4S manual with Cruise control - 112,000 KM Just had my clutch and flywheel replaced, and when i tool the car back the reverse sensor and reverse lights were not working. so they replaced the reverse switch on the gearbox and now that's working fine, but the cruise control has suddenly died out! i always use my cruise control on the highways here as they are full of cameras, and the system was working perfectly before i sent my car for repair. could the clutch job or the reverse sensor have any effect on the cruise control system?? i don't want to pay more money if it's the shop's fault! Thanks in advance. Nehme

thanks as always Wvicary, will check em out.

been enjoying my 944 for almost 3 weeks now with no problems, until yesterday when i found a puddle of water under the car. the water hose (94410624103) that goes from the water pump to the heater pipe is cracked at one end.. previously my mechanic said that my car needs a head gasket job, and that carbon monoxide is entering the cooling system and causing over pressure, i found that odd since there were no symptoms of a blown head gasket, so i started my own diagnosis and found out that the previous owner has hard wired the fans to the A/C switch and fans only work when A/C is on! i was always testing the car when the AC was off! anyways, thought that was the end of the problem until i saw the cracked pipe yesterday, so really dunno if it's the head gasket or not. i also have the below symptoms and would appreciate if anyone has feedback on them: 1- my window relay (94461511202) is emitting sparkling & crackling sounds at times, heard it when the car was off and keys removed from ignition. what's happening in there!?! 2 - every time i fill the car up a strong smell of Gas fills the cabin, i open the hood and check for any sign of leakage from the fuel lines, fuel filter, but nothing smells or is evident under the hood, i assume it's the fuel line from the tank to the front, anyone has diagrams of these fuel lines? 3- Gas Gauge movement is very limited and never goes up to the max or down to the max. 4- when the car starts the car idles at around 1,000 RPM, when the car is driven for a while and i put it into P or N the idle rises all the way to 1,200 RPM and stays there... it just idles very high. what are the normal Idle RPMs and is there a quick fix for this? 5- there's a leak coming from the back side of the engine toward the top, so basically somewhere under where the battery sits, i can't seem to pin it down as i cant see into that area, i will probably have to remove the DME.anyone has suggestions as to what it can be? shaft seal was replaced 5 months ago and leak is surely not coming from there. Many Thanks, Nehme

Thanks RFM, will update this post once the tranny is pulled.

I have an 03 C4S with 110k KM on the clock, last couple of weeks i've felt the clutch pedal go light after i drive it hard... last friday took the car to the track, after i finished the session clutch was light but i didn't give it much thought, the next day i tried to drive the car but the clutch was almost completly gone, the release point was so early and the cars stuters into movement. pressure plate has been squeeking for almost a year and half, but from various posts i was led to believe it's something i have to live with. there was no smell of burning clutch whatsover before or after the track day... could this be a cracked pressure plate? thanks, Nehme

Bought my Second (89 944) @ 28

Well after checking lots of website online, decided to do the fix myself and not splash out on a pair of new tail lights. Below are some pictures of how i fixed them, all it cost was a tupperware and silicon based glue to withstand the high temperatures here in the summer.

Hi Magcuda, if you remember you replied to my first thread on my 944 http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/38461-my-first-944/ basically, i haven't seen any traces of oil in coolant or white smoke out the back... the garage said there's traces of carbon monoxide in the coolant, which was over pressuring the system causing the pipes to burst each time and spill all the coolant. thus they said they had check the head gasket... with that came a ridiculous bill, which i interpreted as "we don't really want to work on your car, but if we are to work on it, we will rape you!!" so, i'm thinking of trouble shooting the coolant system myself, but i don't have most of the tools. any suggestions where to start? thanks, Nehme

I'm about to embark on an 89' 944 Head gasket job, and would like to know if the haynes manual is sufficient to carry out such a job? it's the first time i attempt such a job on a car, i've done many fixes/mods on my 996 like removing mufflers and installing short shifters, but never anything to do with opening engines. i have checked clark's garage website which is very useful, but i would like something more detailed and more concise with clear illustrations and tools needed. anyone can direct me as to what tools/manuals are sufficient for the job? for example to i need to buy the flywheel lock P9206? thanks in advance!

i recently removed the real lights and rear bumper to install muffler bypass pipes, but when i was re-installing them the plastic housing (which the 10mm torx screw connects the tail lights to the body) cracked as soon as i tightened the torx screws. the second torx screw was already broken from before so now the tail light is barely hanging on from the front. i guess the plastic became so fragile due to the harsh sun and temperatures the car was exposed to over the years. i know i'm trying to avoid the inevitable, but is there any way to fix/replace these plastic housings or do i have to splash out 500 bucks on a new rear tail light?! thanks, Nehme

Hello everyone, last week i picked up an abandoned 2001 Boxster S from a local auction at a cheap price. this is one of the cars that was left behind by previous owners when the financial crisis hit in 2008, and has since been sitting in a desert pit covered in Sand. (i'll post some pictures soon). so basically the car's keys are not available and the car hasn't been turned on for almost 3 years. The engine, gearbox and interior all looks in tact, however there's a small impact to the front RHS bumper, and the radiator is bent inwards. first question i'd like to ask you all is how do i tackle this project? i want to bring this baby back to life... if i buy a used key set for the boxster and replace the existing one, would that work? or i would have to take it to the dealership for reprogramming? after flushing all liquids and replacing oils,fluids & spark plugs, is it safe then to attempt to start the car? any input is appreciated!!

Thanks Loren as always for the quick and prompt response! Nehme

Hi all, tried searching the forum but couldn't find any answers. will the muffler bypass pipes for a 996 gt3 fit a 996 carrera 4S? i have a '03 C4S and bidding on a set of muffler bypass pipes that were fitted to a 996 GT3 RS (or so the pic says). i tried to check online, some of them say the pipes don't fit the c4s other say they do :s here's the ebay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-996-911-Muffler-Bypass-Pipes-/220838675917?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336b02c5cd#ht_500wt_1182 thanks in advance!

Thanks for your input guys, it seems like vibration is the least of my worries now... the coolant hose burst the other day straight after taking the car back from the workshop, so i took it back and they said that the coolant hose was old and worn thus cracked quickly under pressure, so they replaced it the hose. i took the car again yesterday only to get home and notice the temperature gauge almost at the red point, so i stopped the car and turned off the engine, that's when i heard the coolant river falling on the floor again... the pipe burst again!!! so now i'm thinking it's probably a blown head gasket that's causing extra pressure into the coolant system, or (Hopefully) the coolant tank's cap is leaking air into the coolant system. any thoughts on this problem? i really enjoy this car, and actually think it's a beauty to drive, but if it's this unreliable i might just sell it off and stick to my 996...

well in all honesty My 944 experience is turning out to be a nightmare... i took the car yesterday from the indy only to get to the nearest petrol station and notice that it has spilled all the coolant and was overheating... they fixed the balance belt timing and vibration was reduced 75% when AC is off... funny enough when AC is ON the vibration is much more... so there must be something related to the AC Compressor...