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About mdmasters

  • Birthday 12/16/1961

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  • From
    Daytona Beach, Fl
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2007 Carrera 4
  • Future cars
    Looking for a 2 yr old low mileage sports sedan for my wife. Maybe a 335i, 650i, Audi A5, Jaguar Xk, or something similar.
  • Former cars
    1972 Corvette, 1998 BMW M3, 2001 BMW Z3 3.0, 2005 Cayman S

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  1. I did a search on this topic, but did not find this specific issue. I just put a CD in my wife's 2005 Boxster CDR24 to test the speakers (the large door speakers seem to be blown). The CD went into the machine but did not play. Pressing eject does nothing. Pressing the CD button gives a message that there is no CD in the drive. Of course a 2nd CD will not go in more than about 2 inches. Help, how do I get this thing out? In the mean time, both large door speakers do seem to be blown, but I am skeptical that both speakers would blow at the same time. What are the chances that something is wrong with the amplifier that is causing the two large speakers to sound like they are blown when low frequency sounds are played? I would hate to replace the two speakers only to find out that it is a problem with the amp. Has anyone replaced these door speakers with after market speakers? Thanks. Mike
  2. I'm reading Ludvigsen's "Excellence Was Expected". I'm familiar with camshaft timing, i.e. exhaust valve opens a certain degree before BDC, and it closes a certain degree after TDC, etc. Ludvigsen gives camshaft timing as, for instance 24/56/54/14 (for a 1973 911T). I can't figure out which of these numbers designates the opening, which designates the closing, which numbers are for exhaust and, which are for intake. It should be simple to figure out, but I just can't get it. I Googled for all sorts of things like camshaft timing designation, or notation, etc. but I could not find anyone else who uses this convention. Can someone explain? I've been reading this series off and on for more than a year, and it bugs me that I can't decipher this. Thanks. Mike
  3. OK, I hope this does not result in someone calling me an idiot, but here is what I did: I just flushed my brake system in preparation for a DE, which I have done many times before. The old fluid was in good shape, and so it was nearly impossible to tell when the new fluid started. This time, using a pressure bleeder, I pushed most of the old fluid out of the reservoir before I started dumping new fluid into the thing so as to minimize the mixing. I may have actually pushed some air into the lines - I'm not sure - but I was not too concerned about that because I figured that the air bubbles, if present, would give me an indication of when I was getting to the new fluid. I then flushed two full 500 liter bottles of Motul RBF 600 through the system starting with the RR outside screw, then RR inside screw, then LR, then RF, then LF. There were some very small bubbles present, but I never did see any significant air bubbles come out of the system before I ran out of new fluid. I took the car for a drive, and I immediately noticed that the brake pedal travel was longer than it had previously been. Pumping the pedal did not make the pedal travel shorter. I would have expected the pedal to stiffen and the travel to get shorter if there was air in the system, but still, I was concerned that I had introduced air into the system, and that I had not gotten it all out. So I bought two more 500 liter bottles of Motul and I flushed most of that through the system, but I never did get any significant air bubbles to come out (there were a few micro bubbles). The brakes seem to work fine other than the longer pedal. I'm concerned that I may have introduced air into the system, and that the air may be somehow "stuck" in the ABS pump. I'm not sure if this can happen, especially since the ABS pump did not cycle at any time during the process. Have I screwed up my brake system? Thanks in advance. Mike
  4. Thanks Paul. I will measure my pads and compare to your measurements. I have some new pads that I have not yet put on the car. Now that I think about it, I have ordered and replaced pads a couple of times as well as pad sensors and the anti-squeal plates, and I never specified an S. I also found an option list on-line this morning, and I see that painted red calipers was an option, and so I'm thinking that I have the stock non-S brakes with the red painted option. Tonight I will go home and get the option codes off of my trunk lid and look them up to see if one of them is the red paint option. Thanks again. Mike M
  5. I bought a used 2007 C4 in 2009. I have always assumed the car to be bone stock. It has red brakes that say Porsche in white on the outside. At a recent autocross someone told me that my brakes had been upgraded with brakes from an S because red brakes were not available on the C4's. This put me in a panic because I am getting ready to sign up for my first national autocross at Parade, and if these brakes were not available as an option on the C4, then I will have to run in the Improved class (which allows any brake mods) alongside highly modified cars with track tires, open exhausts, upgraded suspensions, modified engines, etc. I'll get slayed. I once saw a printout of the original options on this car. I would have been excited to find that I had a factory brake upgrade, and I don't think I would have forgotten it because the car only has a few options on it, and so my guess is that it was not an option on this particular car. Were the larger red S brakes available as an option for the C4? If yes, then I am OK to run in a stock class at Parade. If they are later upgrades, is it likely that the larger rotors had to be added too? Likewise, is the increased capacity master cylinder found on the S models necessary to use the S brakes? Is there some way to tell if the brakes and brake system are from an S as opposed to just being painted or powder coated? Thanks in advance. Mike M
  6. Thanks for the diagram. I will check the connectors. It is possible that I did. This car is my track car / Sunday driver, and so it sits a lot. I almost always fill it full when I get gas, but once or twice recently I only put in 5 - 8 gallons because I was concerned about having the gas sit in the car for a couple of weeks. When I did a partial fill, I found that the "miles to go" would not calibrate correctly, and so I went back to filling the tank full. I can't remember if this current problem occured immediately after the partial fills. Mike
  7. I did a search on this topic, but found no answers. Recently my 2007 C4 fuel gauge started exhibiting odd behavior. When I fill the car up, the needle only goes to about 3/4 full. The fuel range will indicate something like 288 miles to go, and it will never change. If the actual fuel level falls below the 3/4 level, and I don't turn the car off, I THINK that the needle does not ever move, but if I turn the car off AFTER the actual fuel level falls beIow 3/4, and then turn the car on again, the fuel gauge will function normally until the next time that I fill up the car. I'm sure that I am actually filling the tank because of the amount of fuel going into the car. I'm guessing that something is wrong with the sending unit in the tank. Is there an easy way to troubleshoot this? I have a good DVM. Thanks.
  8. I'm venting here as much as asking for advice, so I apologize in advance. I just bought an 05 Boxster from a private party, and I went online to add this car to my insurance policy. I checked the boxes for airbag discount, antilock brake discount, and passive alarm. When my policy declaration showed up, the airbag and antilock brakes discounts had been removed. I called my insurance company, and they told me that I had to supply proof that these items had been added to the vehicle, either via the original window sticker, or from a dealer invoice showing that the work had been done. I argued that these items were standard equipment on all 05 Boxsters, but the person on the other end of the line would not deviate from her statement that it was incumbent upon me to provide proof of installation. I have not had to supply this proof for any other vehicle on which I receive these discounts including my 07 C4 or my former 06 CaymanS. Now maybe I'm the fool here, but don't all 05 Boxsters come standard with these items? If yes, does anyone have any idea how I might supply proof? I don;t want to go to my dealer and request "proof" because he was competing to sell me a car which I did not buy. I told the voice on the phone to go online and look up the specs herself, but she said that it was up to me to provide proof. Thanks in advance. Mike
  9. I did a search for this issue, with no positive results. I just finished a three stage polish job with my new Porter Cable 7424 on my black 07 C4. The car looks awesome, but the super glossy paint now makes the rear fender rock chip guards look horrible. They have scratches and smears on them, and they don't respond to polish. Can these be easily replaced? How much would I expect to pay Porsche to replace them? Can I do it myself? Are replacement chip guards available? If yes, from who? Thanks. Mike M
  10. I am considering purchasing a 2003 Boxster with the sport design package. Some interior parts (seat backs, door arm rests, center console, roll bars) are painted in this weird speckled silver color, and there are quite a few scratches in the painted parts. These scratches make the interior appear to be more worn than it really is. Does anyone know if this paint is available in a spray can for a reasonable cost? It doesn't look like something that can be matched at the local auto parts store. Thanks. Mike M
  11. All good points. >> I will let everyone know if the car runs better and I need a DIY anyway. << I read somewhere that you would have to add something like 15 HP to a 200HP engine in order to notice the difference in the seat of your pants. I have no idea if that is true, but I have alway taken with a grain of salt the guys who say, for instance, that they changed to an aftermarket air cleaner and now their car feels a lot better. Point is, you may or may not get an HP gain, but IMO it is unlikely that you will be able to feel the difference. That is why I was wishing for some Dyno data. GL Mike
  12. For the sake of discussion... I keep seeing posts that condemn the 997S headers, but I'm not yet convinced that they are as bad as everyone believes. Most of the posts seem to indicate that they LOOK like they are restrictive, but here are a few things to consider. 1) Porsche engineers work very hard to coax the maximum amount of power from these six cylinder marvels, so why would they intentionally reduce horsepower on their higher end engine by replacing a more efficient header (X51) with one that is less efficient? Doesn't make sense. 2) People keep saying that the S headers are restrictive because the three tubes go through the same restrictive point. This would be a problem if all three cylinders were evacuating gases AT THE SAME TIME, but imagine the flow through this header with each cylinder exhausting gases in SEQUENCE. Under those conditions you might actually set up a continuous high velocity flow (taking advantage of the restriction to impart a venturi effect) that would help to suck the gases from each cylinder. If this is the case, we should be removing our X51 headers and replacing them with all of the discarded 997S headers. :huh: 3) I agree that an an obvious design flaw present in the S headers is that the tubes are not of equal length. I don't have a CS (I have a C4), but if I did, I would have to see a decisive dyno comparison before I changed headers because the risk is that you may actually be reducing power by swapping headers.
  13. No I only have the normal Carrera oval tips. I did know that PSE has the two round tips with one smaller than the other, but I didn't know if you could install PSE mufflers without installing the entire system. It looks like I just have a stock Carrera exhaust system. I'm thinking about getting the PSE system, but I see that the price went way up a couple of months back, and so my negotiations with the wife will be a bit more difficult :rolleyes: .
  14. Thanks phillipj. No I don't have a carbon fiber airbox. Darn! Great looking car! Mike
  15. Thanks for posting the photo. Yes, those are the headers that are on my car. I see that the X-51 package also includes mufflers from the PSE system. How would I tell if I have the PSE mufflers? (I don't have the PSE switch.) Is there a documented horsepower increase with these headers (and with the x-51 package)? The option codes on my sticker do not have any indication of an X-51 package. I know the turbo wheels were a later addition, and so I'm guessing, (do to lack of option codes), that the headers are also late additions. Thanks again.
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