bwestfall

hey all,

Just had to disconnect my batteries to safely change out the started and coolant tubes.

does anyone know a source for the radio code

2003 cayenne s wp1ab29p53la60531 cd 23 i think

htnaks brent

Hey all,

Just wondering what gaskets etc are requirred for starter replacment

thanks

brent

I run yokohama prada spec-x on 20's - they are awsome driving/handling - even great when I tow a 22 foot boat!

yup - already tightened. The kicker was, unable to re-order contact from dealer, and could not find at a wrecker, only other option was to try direct from valeo in spain,

but this worked and was way cheaper!

It isn't too bad, as long as your hand can se somewhat of a contorsioist - it is pretty tight up front.

The trick is:

Remove the front ducting - the srews turn about half way then the center duct will slide out - these are NOT a bolt- it is a special turn lock!

If you are unsure about repositioning the belt correctly, then seek a mechanic - this would be a disasterous whoops!

If you place a large bin under the car, you can catch most of the coolant, you can even use a paint filter to filter this and re-use.

Availabliltiy - through the dealer of course, but for way less, if you deal with a shop that uses worldpac for a parts supplier, the part is now

available through them - it is an oem part - comes in a porsche box with porsche part numbers.

hope this helps.

Mine started grumbling at 90,000 km - you are better to replace now, rather than wait for the sploosh of coolant.

Did you use OEM or other -if other - what did you use.We have an interstate battery place in town and the website lists that they have replacement batteries.

Is the main battery a top post or side post?

I think others must have run into this. Both front signal lights have gone on the fritz!

When you take out the bulb and look at the contact points in the headlight housing, you can see that the contacts have been arcing and result in the actual contact getting a hole worn in it.s

As a fix, we soldered leads onto the bulb holder, pulled the contact points out of the headlight and soldered the wires to to the leads as well - giving enough length to be able to remove the bulb holder and replace bulbs are requirred.

Just a quick fix if you are having the same problem

Brent

Hello all, I have searched this, but still have a couple questions...

1) Battery under seat is for all the electronics etc.

2) Auxillary battery in the back is for starting only

Do you have to replace both batteries, or just the one under the seat?

What issues arise when the battery starts to go? Our radio has been doing wierd things, heating won't come on until cayenne starts and things cycle through (about 10 seconds)

With the key in the ignition - volt meter reads approx 11 votls, and when running reads 14-15: does this indicate time for new battery

thanks

brent

I would probably not go smaller than 18" - lots of 255/55 r18 options for winter tires, and you are pretty much safe for brake clearance - just verify in your manual.

I run these on my cayenne s, and 20" for summer

Hi all, time to bring up wiring for a trailer again. (loren thanks again for the wiring diagram)

2003 cayenne S with dealer installed hitch and programming. I have a boat trailer with surge brakes and LED lights. I have the uhaul 7pin round toi 5 pin flat adapter already with the built in resistors for LED lights.

The problem - I have RT turn, LT turn, Running light, Reverse signal (to turn off the brakes while reversing), but NO BRAKE LIGHTS.

Fixes - Went to a hitch place - the pollak reciever had a missing / corroded pin on the back - replaced

- also, the contact for that missing pin was disolved on the cayenne harnes - replaced this connection as well

Still no brake light. Does anyone have any ideas?? (dealership is 4.5 hours away)

THanks

Do you have portable lights or something you could plug in to see if the fault is on the car side or the trailer side? Or just a multimeter to see if you're getting power on that pin from the Cayenne when you hit the brakes?

The trailer lights were fine on my f350. When I use a test light on the trailer side of the uhaul adapter, I get turn signal/running/reverse - same as the trailer, but for some reason, the brake is not triggering the lt/rt turn leads. Not sure if this is a problem with the module.

Hi all, time to bring up wiring for a trailer again. (loren thanks again for the wiring diagram)

2003 cayenne S with dealer installed hitch and programming. I have a boat trailer with surge brakes and LED lights. I have the uhaul 7pin round toi 5 pin flat adapter already with the built in resistors for LED lights.

The problem - I have RT turn, LT turn, Running light, Reverse signal (to turn off the brakes while reversing), but NO BRAKE LIGHTS.

Fixes - Went to a hitch place - the pollak reciever had a missing / corroded pin on the back - replaced

- also, the contact for that missing pin was disolved on the cayenne harnes - replaced this connection as well

Still no brake light. Does anyone have any ideas?? (dealership is 4.5 hours away)

THanks

Probably one of the two fuel pumps have a problem. The used system is not as simple as that, in the electric box under the engine hood are two relays and two fuses, one for each pump. Under the chassis on the left rear side is the electr.connector to the pumps, some have to much play inside, and the pins will burn and have a bad contact. The pumps are accessible under the rear seats left and right side. I will try to give a short explanation, if you open the car with the remote and take the door handle to open the door, pump 1 gives a pre load. Starting the engine pump 1 and pump 2 are working, after 10 sec. pump 1 stops and the engine is running on pump 2 ( conditions - car horizontal position and fuel tank approx. 15 liter ). If you have a warranty go to a OPC, if not try to get a technical bulletin.

Success.

RFM - Thanks for the help in finding connectors etc. Turns out the fuel level sender/sensor was buggered - we were out of gas!!

Brent

Just picked up a 2003 cayenne s for the wife. it is at 90,000 km and in need of regular service (rotors/pads/oil/filters/plugs/coils etc)

Just last week, it stalled on the wife. It will start and run for 8-10 seconds, then sputter and stall.

Has anyone experienced this. we are thinking fuel pumps - any other input would be greatly appreciated

Thanks - Brent - kelown aBC Canada

Each of the 3 LCD displays has a light bulb behind it.  If you cannot see a display it is usually because the bulb for that display has burned out.  But you say you replaced the bulb.

Did you replace the correct bulb.  The bulb comes in a plastic holder as a single part, you cannot remove the bulb from the holder.  The holder is tan.  There are 3 of these on the back of the cluster. 1.5 watts is correct.  Is the holder making good electrical contact with the circuit board.

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All fixed - thank you - I had put a bulb in an empty spot - no wonder

On the 986 the mileage number is stored in the cluster.

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Tool pants - help - I removed my cluster - painted the gauge bezels - and re-installed. The bulb for the odometer was loose and fell into the dash - so I got a new one - but the odometer display won't work. The speedo sweeps accurately, the cruise control lights up, and the Odometer does record mileage - if you look at it at the right angle you can see the numbers - but It just wont light up - I have tried 2 different bulbs (12v 1.5 watt - volkswagen - same as porsche's)

Any suggestions