Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by zokman

  1. [The Harbor Frieght tools worked great. I have done one other wheel bearing repalcement without this tool set and I now wonder how I ever did it. In my opinion, this tool set is essential to do the job without tearing up the ball joint boot. Also I needed the standard puller included in this set to remove the bearing race from the hub.
  2. Regarding the hub extractor, Yes I used the bracket and the designated hub extractor washer, I think it is SirTools washer #14. I will check this PM and reply back if it was another number. Everything worked OK, I just did not need the 3J bracket. It wouldn't fit between the brake shoes and the hub. Thanks for the link Zok
  3. When I removed the hub, the inner bearing race came with it. I had to remove it with a small puller. I did apply silicon to the torn boot. It was the only way I could figure out how to seal the area. I am not surprised that the boot can not be purchased separately. After all, why would you want to sell a $5 part when a $900 part will do just as well. I think I am going to buy that ball joint tool from Harbor Freight. After all the tools I have purchased for this job, 350# torque wrench, Sir Tools B-90, impact driver, wheel nut socket, misc. other small extensions, etc, why stop now. Zok
  4. I have finished the job and it was definitely a bear. :censored: The suggested time to complete this project was 3.5 - 5 hours. I think it took me about 15 hours total. Of course, 8 or more hours were spent disassembling and then re- assembling sub assemblies that didn't need to be messed with and running back and forth to the neighborhood AutoZone. By the way, AutoZone's "borrow a tool" program saved me about $75. By the time the dust settled over the Shady Bend Porsche Repair Shop (my garage), the bearing has been replaced, I understand how the rear suspension of the Boxster works and I have about $650 in my pocket that would have been in the local dealers's pocket. After the wailing and gnashing, I guess it was worth it. If another bearing goes out in the next few months, I know it will have been worth the trouble. Zok
  5. Your verbal instructions helped me understand what I was doing. I eventually figured out that I had to break apart the ball joint in order to get the wheel carrier off the drive shaft. Once this joint was separated the rest of the job was very straight forward, with the exception that the additional horseshoe bracket (J) for the B-90 was not needed. I spent about 30 minutes trying to figure out how to get this bracket in place in order to remove the hub from the bearing and finally decided to attempt the removal without the bracket. The hub came right out, therefore the (J) bracket not required on the Boxster. Removal of the bearing and replacement of the new bearing was as described in the sir tools instruction sheet. The guy at Paragon Products suggested I freeze the new bearing to facilitate installation. I did this and it seemed to help somewhat. The other item that you mentioned was the spring compressor. Absolutely necessary in my opinion. I ended up getting one at Autozone, using their free "borrow a tool" program. I also got a pittman wedge from AutoZone, I used this tool to separate the ball joint. Everything went OK once I understood how this assembly was put together. The only thing that I messed up was the boot over the ball joint. I don't know if I can replace just the boot or if I have to replace the entire ball joint. I am guessing there is a better tool that the Pittman wedge for separating this joint, because I think that's how I damaged to boot. Thank you for the exploded view of the rear suspension. Next time I do one of these repairs that I have never done before, I'm going to do a lot better homework before I begin. I know my wife will appreciate it. Just in case I haven't mentioned it, your assistance was invaluable. Zok
  6. Thanks again for the reply. Your description of the suspension parts has enabled me to what I am talking about In my earlier this morning post I did not list the removal of the nut from the track rod and the separation of that rod from the wheel carrier. I am having trouble understanding why anything needs to be done to the track control arm if this part is separated from the wheel carrier at the ball joint. Is the removal of the eccentric nut and bolt an alternative to breaking apart the ball joint? I also do not understand how the wheel carrier comes apart. Thanks again for your help. Zok
  7. Thanks for the assistance. I think I am beginning to understand where I am now. Here goes. 1. installed a spring compressor on the rear strut 2. removed the retaining bolt and nut from the control arm (3). 3. loosened the eccentric nut at the end of the track control arm. 4. removed the upper retaining bolt and nut from the upper connecting rod that attaches to the sway bar. This bolt attaches to the upper part of what I guess is the wheel carrier. When I removed this bolt and nut, and after considerable moving back and forth of the wheel carrier assembly, the entire wheel carrier assembly began to slide off the strut tube. I am guessing this is no good. I jacked the carrier assembly up into it's original position. 5. loosened the nut on the top of the ball joint, but can not get the carrier off the stud. I have a pittman rod and will attempt to separate this assembly this AM. The following are the instructions that came with the B-90P from Sir Tools. I'm going to skip the removal of wheel nut/caliper/rotor. 6. Remove the bottom control arm retaining nut and bolt. ( still a little foggy on this, I think this is the bolt and nut removed from arm (3)?) 7. Swing the wheel bearing housing and strut assembly out of the way and off the stub axel. ( this is where I go into the weeds) 8. Remove the hub as shown in Figure A. This picture shows a cross section of the Sir tools parts and the hub assembly complete with the E-brake shoes. There is no axel showing, no drive shaft, just the spindle bearing housing ,brake shoe assy and hub. None of this makes any sense to me because I haven't gotten the wheel carrier stripped to the poing where I can even see the bearing. I appreciate your assistance. Zok
  8. :cursing: I am in the middle of this job and I am stuck big time. Having a ***** of a time getting the wheel carrier off the control arm. I have been looking at this thing and all of the instructions for the past 5 hours and I'm no further along than I was when I started looking. :cursing: :cursing: :cursing: If you have any info on getting wheel carrier loose from the control arm, please send in my way. Zok
  9. :censored: I am stuck in the middle of the rear wheel bearing replacement on my 97 Boxster. I have the hub nut off, the caliper off, the rotor off. The next step in the Sir Tools B-90P instructions are to "remove the bottom contol arm retaining nut and bolt" I wonder what nut an bolt this is. Is it the one located at the end of the control arm away from the wheel? This looks like the camber adjustment to me. Or is it the nut that attaches the control arm to the wheel housing. This looks like a ball joint to me. :censored: Next step "Swing the wheel bearing housing and strut assembly out of the way and off the stub axel. If I could figue out which nut and bolt to remove, than maybe I can do this step. :censored: :censored: If anyone has any advise, I will greatly appreciate the assistance. Zok
  10. I will not be able to take pics of the repair, digital camera sent in for warranty repair. I will be using the Sir Tools B-90P with the additional pieces as spec'd. The instructions included with the tools are sort of clear. Completing this repair successfully will be cause for much joy, compared to the wailing and gnashing of teeth if this puppy goes south. Details on Monday. Zok
  11. Thanks for the information. I am pretty sure I have the correct tools for the bearing job. I guess I'll find out Saturday. Zok
  12. I have a 97 w/factory hardtop and after almost 8 years I can certify that the hardtop is the most necessary option you could possibly get on the Boxster. The car looks better with the hardtop on as the designers stressed wihen the glass window soft top was introduced. The top protects the interior of the car in extreme conditions whether they be weather related on neighborhood related. The noise muffling is a slight drawback, but worth the trade off in most cases. Proper fit and cushioning is critical and easily achieved. In short, having the hardtop is almost like having two different cars. That's my 2 cents worth. Zok
  13. I will be replacing the rear wheel bearing this weekend and part of this job is the removal of the rear caliper and rotor. Are there any surprises, specialized tools, secret German chants, or is this a normal caliper/rotor removal. Any information will be appreciated. Zok
  14. How are the grilles for the front air intakes removed for repainting? Does the entire bumper cover need to be removed? Any information will be much appreciated.
  15. thanks for the info. I will look into the tool you described. Have you ever done this work or seen it done. I am not familiar with this tool or the procedures to replace the bearing. It seems from the posts I have been reading that bearings are a chronic problem, so getting the right tools and learning the procedure appears to have huge money saving potential. Any more information will be greatly appreciated. Zok
  16. Thanks for the info. What type of Hubtamer do you suggest. The prices of these things are all over the place. $250 to $500. Is there a specific model that will do the trick on the rear wheel bearings for a 97 boxster?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.