Ahsai

Looks like a mildly driven car. Range 1 indicates the number of ignitions during which the rev limiter was hit (harmless). Range 2 indicates over-rev so 0 is good. Your range 1 happened when the car was relatively new (~9,700 km estimated) since 2548 hour is close to the total number of hrs on the engine (2754 hours).

FRAs and TRAs look normal. You took these numbers when the engine was NOT running? The rough running should be non-zero and fluctuating when engine is running. Also camshaft deviation most likely is not 0.0 but I suppose it could be. For segment A and B, see this thread logray posted. http://forums.rennli...uired-easy.html . Not sure about any conclusion but at least one person has the same segemnet A-B values as you.

Yes. Just pull the black cap out.

I got the part number to your question 3 . It is 996 105 052 01

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/103-11.php

Yea, same part I have in mind.

Try to slot a large adjustable wrench at the base of the knob (be careful not to mar the knob) and find some leverage to "pry" straight up. When you only grab the knob and pull up, sometimes your hand is squeezing the knob so hard that you're working against yourself since the knob is just friction fit onto the shifter shaft.

Thank you for your reply. Very good questions, but I am not sure I have all the answers. I am just going by the notes that the mechanic gave me. But Here is what I think:

1) I think they did that on the timing actuators

2) They performed the valve lift test on bank 1 and bank 2 using PST2 tester. I think this was done to eliminate this as a possibility.

3) Not sure, but I will try to find out and get back to you.

If they did switch the actuators and check the wiring, then I think they do mean the sprocket I was talking about. That sprocket rides on the timing chain so it's a lot of labor to remove. Pic here

http://www.porsche.com/international/aboutporsche/responsibility/environment/technology/variocamplus/

Re-reading your post and have a few questions:

1) "Switched Bank2 sensor with Bank 1" <- Cam position sensors? Or you meant the variable cam timing actuators themselves?

2) "Valve lift tested fine" <- the code is for cam timing and not valve lifting...

3) "Cam Adjuster" <- did they mean the variable timing vane/sprocket on the end of the intake camshaft? That thing will be expensive to R&R!

Since you have a 2003, your fix should be a lot easier/cheaper. Check the posts by Logray here

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996/259286-p1325-p301-codes.html

Good luck.

Love my hexomats too!

The pads are for street/track use per your link. Most likely that's the reason for the squeal.

Since your car was tilted and you don't know how much coolant was lost, I think it would be safer to tow it to the dealer. If you just refill without a vacuum tool, you risk air pocket and hot spots created inside the engine when you drive it.

I think you can set speed alarms that's triggered beyond the set speed. Forgot how though but it should be in the owner's manual.

That's interesting but as you said, still would not explain your problem. I would put the old plug and new plug side-by-side to inspect carefully. You can also try to mate the threads of the two and see if they match. Also, inspect the thread on the oil pan for any damage/debris.

It's approx 16 threads per inch. Should be M18x1.5mm per LN site.

I have an '03 and my LN plug went in smoothly. Are you sure your OE drain plug is original and there was no work like re-tap on your oil pan? You should be able to measure the pitch of the threads with a tool and verify directly.

Yes, RennTech.org gets a small commission from any purchase through the RennTech.org Amazon store.

Thanks, Loren. Will order throught that link then.

Do we benefit Renntech if we order thru Loren's link?

Have you checked the hydraulic chain tensioners?

P1219 256 Accelerator pedal - signal implausible

Possible fault cause

♦ Pedal sensor

NOTE:

♦ The system operates in pedal sensor standby mode, i.e. the

angle of the accelerator pedal is calculated from the residual

position sensor signal.

♦ The maximum pedal value is limited to 30 %.

♦ The dynamic is limited.

♦ The fault code only appears together with P1577 or P1578.

♦ The pedal value is reset to zero by actuating the brake.

Work instruction:

1 Check wiring from DME control module, Pin IV/8,

to pedal sensor, Pin 2, for short circuit to ground

♦ Connect special tool 9637 to

wiring harness (DME control

module plug)

♦ Measure resistance between

special tool Pin IV/8 and ground

2 Replace pedal sensor

Item #2 is the pedal sensor (996 606 115 00)

The part is indeed around $800 (!!!) It's funny I just got a similar part for a Japanese car for $150 and I thought that was outrageous for what essentially is a pair of potentiometers. Maybe the Porsche one is more sophisticated.

I received the same delayed acceleration problem and error codes as Zone5996. I ordered P# 996-606-116-00-M14 (Throttle Position Switch) from Pelican Parts; however, when I received the part and where I thought it went in my car are not one in the same. I have two questions. First, for the part I ordered, would this fix the symptoms described above? Secondly, where the heck does this part go?

Thanks,

Ken

Your part ...116-00 is the throttle position sensor that is on the throttle body. The codes above as wross pointed out is complaining about item #2 (located under the dash above your right knee connected to the gas pedal via a cable) and the related wiring so I highly doubt the TPS you got will fix your problem.

Sorry to hear your engnie problem. There are small holes at the bottom of the airbox, which is the lowest point of the intake. But that also means the puddle has to cover your exhaust and cats and alternator to get to that high level?!

Does sounds like a leaking coolant tank and/or cap. Yea, these tanks tend to crack in time and the cap is also known to leak. The cap has been redesigned for a few times.

Definitely go with OE parts. You could get good deals from Sunset or Suncoast Porsche.

I own this one and love it http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B0012WHBSO

Highe quality, super quiet and fast. If you have used those cheap portable ones, you know how loud those are.

I just plug it in the cigaretter lighter socket. Best with engine on since it draws quite a bit of current (~10-15A) but can also be used with engine off when just topping off a tire or two.

BTW, this is an excellent tire gauge http://www.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-4021B-Standard-Digital-Gauge/dp/B00080QHMM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I27WAXRLHI9OLG&colid=32L6BJJIEJIEZ

Very easy to use, accurate, and bright.

Thanks again, logray. Yea, I've read that info before. My oil shows about double the amount of iron/copper compared to the avg. However, my oil had 5k miles when the avg values were based on 4k miles. The TBN of my used oil is 6.7 (10 when new) which means the oil has plenty of life in it. So it seems that the engine appear to wear at a higher rate than normal in spite of the good remaining oil life.

Although this is my first UOA, I've been using the same oil (Motul x-cess 5w-40) in the past 4 years now and I change oil about every 5-7k or every yr. I was also careful when collecting the sample. I collected only in the middle of draining (not the beginning or the end) hoping to minimize any skew of contaminants in the oil. One thing different about this sample is I took a 2k+ miles road trip which involved lots of continuous highway driving. If anything, I would expect it's good for the engine and not making it wear faster.

Copper/mag perhaps small rod bushes and some other components, but would I be concerned at those levels? I doubt it!

Main/rod bearings are steel backed.

Iron in crank, camshafts, rods, but is it enough to worry about? Doubt it.

For the "doubt it" quantification I give above you would need a ton of UOA.

Perhaps JFP in PA will comment since I'm sure he has a significant database, but I wonder what Charles or Jake's UOA libraries look like. :P

Thanks, Logray. Yea, not too concerned for now. Will check the next UOA in 4k miles.