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I believe that's correct.
Ahsai replied to jbabington's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Since you have Durametric, can you check what are your cam deviation values on both bank? The fuel supplies splits into bank 1 and bank 2. I don't see how you can have all the injectors on one bank clogged at the same time. You may want to verify the sparks on bank 1. When you said the cam shaft slots lined up, did you check it with a cam alignment tool or just eyeballed it? Could you do leak down or compression test on one of the cylinders on bank 1?
Ahsai replied to CPD996's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)It should be plug and play because the factory PSE is also plug and play with the factory non-PSE mufflers (in terms of fasteners and physical connections to the headers and cats).
Try this. Turn off the engine and pump your brakes 5 to 6 times. The pedal should feel harder and have shorter stroke everytime you pump it. If that's the case, I think your brake booster is working. If you have air in the system, the brake pedal should feel spongy and should be quite obvious. I have no experience with your brand of brake pads but the feel and stopping power varies greatly with pad material.
Ah, your's is DME 7.2 so it has 5 plugs on the DME. Since you have Durametric, you can plot the O2 sensor voltages of all the 4 sensors. After engine warm up and at idle, you should see the precat voltage swing between ~0.2v to 0.9v about once a second. The postcat voltage should remain close to 0.6~0.7v steady. This P1276 code is complaining about the switching delay of the sensor (between lean and rich). If you have a regular scanner that reads mode 5, you can also see the O2 sensor test results that will give you more clues. Is the replaced sensor Bosch and the model correct?
Perhaps you could remove the thermostat insert from its housing (a special tool is needed but you can use a metal short pipe of the proper size to improvise) and reinstall it and refill with coolant. Then run the engine to 180 and check if the coolant circulates. You can then convince yourself there's no internal coolant restrictions inside the engine. For the cooling fans, check the fuses and the relays. If you want to drain the coolant completely, you can follow these steps (but be very careful not to use too much pressure).
You can try this. - Unplug the bank 2 pre-cat sensor - Check if the pin with the black wire has +12v with key ON engine OFF. That's the power supply to the heater of the O2 sensor. - Check continuity between DME pin 30 and the pin with the red/white wire on the O2 sensor socket.
That's great to hear. Yes, you can apply some where the pads contact the sliding pin. Brake cleaner is OK because it's safe for rubber and the paint on the caliper also. I've never heard of powerstop. If you go aftermarket you may want to stay with the more well known ones such as Zimmerman, Brembo, Textar, Akebono, etc to avoid squeaking.
Our brakes are monoblock (as opposed to floating) so there are much less sliding parts. You can still clean the caliper/dust boot. Other than that, you can coat the brake pad pin and the small locking pin very lightly with antiseize.
Cool and I'm glad to hear that. It's a bit disturbing to have that big fuse blown without knowing the cause though.
Ahsai replied to creekman's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
If I'm not mistaken, your precat sensors are wide band so the graph is showing +/- mA fluctuating, which is normal. The postcat sensors are narrowband so they return voltage from about 0.2 to 0.9v. If the cats are good, the postcat sensors should read about 0.7v steady at idle but yours fluctuate quite a bit. The lambda line should be close to 1.0 at all engine speed. So in conclusion, it seems your cats are bad (barring any exhaust leaks). You could use clear the codes and rum a bottle of techron or seafoam in your gas tank and see if the codes come back. Can also check the cats monitor reports to see if that makes a difference.