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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. The fan normally does not turn on unless your engine is very hot and you stop the car when the ambient temp is also hot or you park it in a confined garage on the hot day. The fan should not run when the ignition is on (other than the above conditions).
  2. Actually I'm not sure. You may want to PM Schnell Gelb and porschetech3.
  3. This thread will give more info. "Lazy" VarioCam, P1341 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - "Lazy" VarioCam, P1341 - UPDATE: IF YOU ARE SEEING SMALL BITS OF GREEN O-RING-ISH RUBBER IN...
  4. The spring came out like that? Also, are there any o-ring on the piston? Hard to tell from the pic.
  5. Not sure why they said the kit won't fit your car. The part numbers of both the clutch kit and flywheel seem to fit your model per autoatlanta site here.
  6. Your car came with a dual-mass flywheel from the factory and the correct latest p/n for the flywheel is 99611401204. The best option in the US is LUK DMF024 and I suspect that's also the case for you. You can search for clutch kits for your MY/model here. LUK and Sach both provide clutch kits.
  7. You may want to check if the catalytic elements are loose inside the converters.
  8. The squeal is your SAI pump. It needs lubrication. You can hear it winding down at 1:41 on the 1st video. The smoking at 0:28 is not normal. Could be oil dripping on the right header. The tail pipe smoking on the 2nd video is oil burning in bank 2 cylinders. Check if the oil level is good and also the AOS vacuum level as John mentioned above. Has anyone touched the bank 2 pistons/cylinders such as a rebuild?
  9. P0430 (or 0420) takes a while to be tripped (a couple of days of driving with mixed load) because there are a series of tests under different driving conditions need to be run first. Can you check what are the O2 sensor readings at moderate load and constant speed on a flat road? It may be difficult to tell visually since the post O2 will swing as well but should they should swing less than the precat O2 sensors. Squealing could be a failing AOS. You may want to check your crankcase vacuum with a manometer (should he around 5 inches odlf water vacuum).
  10. I haven't tried the Autel scan tool so not sure how accurate it is. It would be nice if you could recheck everything with a Durametric. Assuming the Autel readings are correct, your bank 1 cam deviation is not in spec and should be corrected. You may want to replace the bank 1 chain tensioner and retime bank 1. The bank 2 cam behavior sounds suspicious. Could be the variocam actuator problem (sticky). Would be nice to check with Durametric to confirm before digging in further.
  11. Since you have Durametric, can you check what are your cam deviation values on both bank? The fuel supplies splits into bank 1 and bank 2. I don't see how you can have all the injectors on one bank clogged at the same time. You may want to verify the sparks on bank 1. When you said the cam shaft slots lined up, did you check it with a cam alignment tool or just eyeballed it? Could you do leak down or compression test on one of the cylinders on bank 1?
  12. It should be plug and play because the factory PSE is also plug and play with the factory non-PSE mufflers (in terms of fasteners and physical connections to the headers and cats).
  13. Try this. Turn off the engine and pump your brakes 5 to 6 times. The pedal should feel harder and have shorter stroke everytime you pump it. If that's the case, I think your brake booster is working. If you have air in the system, the brake pedal should feel spongy and should be quite obvious. I have no experience with your brand of brake pads but the feel and stopping power varies greatly with pad material.
  14. Ah, your's is DME 7.2 so it has 5 plugs on the DME. Since you have Durametric, you can plot the O2 sensor voltages of all the 4 sensors. After engine warm up and at idle, you should see the precat voltage swing between ~0.2v to 0.9v about once a second. The postcat voltage should remain close to 0.6~0.7v steady. This P1276 code is complaining about the switching delay of the sensor (between lean and rich). If you have a regular scanner that reads mode 5, you can also see the O2 sensor test results that will give you more clues. Is the replaced sensor Bosch and the model correct?
  15. Perhaps you could remove the thermostat insert from its housing (a special tool is needed but you can use a metal short pipe of the proper size to improvise) and reinstall it and refill with coolant. Then run the engine to 180 and check if the coolant circulates. You can then convince yourself there's no internal coolant restrictions inside the engine. For the cooling fans, check the fuses and the relays. If you want to drain the coolant completely, you can follow these steps (but be very careful not to use too much pressure).
  16. You can try this. - Unplug the bank 2 pre-cat sensor - Check if the pin with the black wire has +12v with key ON engine OFF. That's the power supply to the heater of the O2 sensor. - Check continuity between DME pin 30 and the pin with the red/white wire on the O2 sensor socket.
  17. Not too sure. I can't find dampers for your model (seems to start in MY2000).
  18. BTW, why you have a right hand drive car? I thought you're in PA?
  19. That's great to hear. Yes, you can apply some where the pads contact the sliding pin. Brake cleaner is OK because it's safe for rubber and the paint on the caliper also. I've never heard of powerstop. If you go aftermarket you may want to stay with the more well known ones such as Zimmerman, Brembo, Textar, Akebono, etc to avoid squeaking.
  20. You also want to check your cats with the electronic ear to see if the ticking is from a loose element inside.
  21. Our brakes are monoblock (as opposed to floating) so there are much less sliding parts. You can still clean the caliper/dust boot. Other than that, you can coat the brake pad pin and the small locking pin very lightly with antiseize.
  22. Cool and I'm glad to hear that. It's a bit disturbing to have that big fuse blown without knowing the cause though.
  23. If I'm not mistaken, your precat sensors are wide band so the graph is showing +/- mA fluctuating, which is normal. The postcat sensors are narrowband so they return voltage from about 0.2 to 0.9v. If the cats are good, the postcat sensors should read about 0.7v steady at idle but yours fluctuate quite a bit. The lambda line should be close to 1.0 at all engine speed. So in conclusion, it seems your cats are bad (barring any exhaust leaks). You could use clear the codes and rum a bottle of techron or seafoam in your gas tank and see if the codes come back. Can also check the cats monitor reports to see if that makes a difference.
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