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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. Not too sure. I can't find dampers for your model (seems to start in MY2000).
  2. BTW, why you have a right hand drive car? I thought you're in PA?
  3. That's great to hear. Yes, you can apply some where the pads contact the sliding pin. Brake cleaner is OK because it's safe for rubber and the paint on the caliper also. I've never heard of powerstop. If you go aftermarket you may want to stay with the more well known ones such as Zimmerman, Brembo, Textar, Akebono, etc to avoid squeaking.
  4. You also want to check your cats with the electronic ear to see if the ticking is from a loose element inside.
  5. Our brakes are monoblock (as opposed to floating) so there are much less sliding parts. You can still clean the caliper/dust boot. Other than that, you can coat the brake pad pin and the small locking pin very lightly with antiseize.
  6. Cool and I'm glad to hear that. It's a bit disturbing to have that big fuse blown without knowing the cause though.
  7. If I'm not mistaken, your precat sensors are wide band so the graph is showing +/- mA fluctuating, which is normal. The postcat sensors are narrowband so they return voltage from about 0.2 to 0.9v. If the cats are good, the postcat sensors should read about 0.7v steady at idle but yours fluctuate quite a bit. The lambda line should be close to 1.0 at all engine speed. So in conclusion, it seems your cats are bad (barring any exhaust leaks). You could use clear the codes and rum a bottle of techron or seafoam in your gas tank and see if the codes come back. Can also check the cats monitor reports to see if that makes a difference.
  8. Sorry to say but that sounds like bore scoring to me. You can use an endoscope to inspect the cylinders from the spark plug holes. Check these excellent videos from Jake Raby and learn all you need to know about bore scoring. There are 7 parts.
  9. So I take that your car started after you replaced fuse E1?
  10. The evap regen valve ticking will sound quite different (much faster ticking than lifters) hence my suggestion of a sound clip.
  11. Can you confirm one thing? Check the VOLTAGE on fuses C1 to C4. They should all be 0v because they get power from fuse F5. If true, some consumer(s) may be shorting out the circuit. Should be easier to pinpoint. You can try the following: - Remove fuses C1 to C4 - Get a smart fuse and rig up something to connect to the F5 slot (as a replacement of fuse F5) - If there's a short, the fuse will light up - Now put in C1 to C4 one by one and see if any trip the smart fuse - That should narrow down which circuit to do further tracing
  12. F5 is under the dash so it will be difficult to get to (I just noticed it now). Check C2 instead because it gets power from F5. If those all have 12v, the immobilizer should have power. BTW, how do you know the immobilizer does not have power?
  13. The power for the immobilizer should come from fuses B8, E1 and F5 so you may want to check for voltage there as well. The ignition pick up coil is only for reading the transponder inside the keyfob and it should not cut off power to the immobilizer. Check voltage on fuse B8, which is switched power so that should verify your ignition switch.
  14. The best is to upload a sound clip here. It's possible you have bore scoring. Regarding P1325, have you trued activate the variocam on each bank using Durametric? Does the actual angle change if you rev the engine to 3.5-4k? It should.
  15. Did your son also press down the clutch (or you jumped the clutch switch) while he turned the key? If not, the relay won't activate. There are many ground points but those will not be the first things to check. Nothing should be powered from the OBDII port but some people may tap power there to install aftermarket electronics. Could you recheck fuses c1 to c4 and e1?
  16. Any aftermarket electronics? Any thing that connects to or tap power from the OBDII port? It does sound like the immobilizer. Have you checked if the start lock relay gets ground from the DME when you crank? Have you tried jumping the power pins of the relay to bypass it to see if the starter spins when you crank?
  17. There should be an existing port on either cylinder head. You can google porsche 996 oil pressure sender to see the pics. This thread should be useful for the sender and gauge. Oil Pressure Sending Unit 986FORUM.COM 986 Forum - for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
  18. C1 to C4 are easy to remember for me so I always ask ppl to check those. You are right that one of them is for the fuel pump so it will not cause your symptoms. Next things to check are clutch switch (jump it) and make sure the battery cables are tight. Next place to check is the rear starter relay panel.
  19. What were the airbag fault codes? There are a few possibilities...None should disable the car like that though.
  20. PCM is related to the radio http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/63493-durametric-code-9114-pcm.html Have you checked fuses c1-c4 and E1? Have you jumped the clutch switch?
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